Fastlane

What you can try is to disconnect the hose with a clamp( or bypass ist with a short tube) . Its under the manifold on the left side . so you can check if it has any effect on the cold start

refering to your cold start Problems this might be interesteing to you https://www.carpassion.com/forum/thema/58441-308-zusatzluftschieber-reparieren-und-einstellen/#comments Problem :you can`t get by without removing Manifold. I Put some Brakecleaner into the Hose to remove the Oildebris, most time the slider is stuck or boken-

Overhaul of the Propellershaft on the R33GTR As the Propellershaft on the R32 / R34 are similar, it should be the same there. On mine, the rubber in the center bearing was completely defective and the constant velocity joint on the differential was jamming and was difficult to move, although there was hardly any wear visible. On the joint in the middle, only minimal wear on the surface was visible and it was easy to move evenly, so I didn't replace it. The universal joint was still very good and hardly worn in. Here is the matching replacement joint Porsche part No.: 91133203001 Length [mm]: 32 mm Number of holes: 6 Number of holes: 6 Bore circle diameter [mm]: 94 mm Internal toothing diff. side connecting shaft: 28 Outer diameter [mm]: 108 mm Bore diameter [mm]: 10.9 mm The joint is a perfect replacement, the only difference is that the diameter of the cover is too large. If you cut off the edge, it fits very well. The only thing that is a little more difficult is the assembly. You can also just leave the cover off, it's actually just to prevent dirt from getting in during transport. Here are some tips for assembly: Mark each individual part how they originally fit together! It's best to take additional photos. If it can't be put back together the same way, it needs to be rebalanced. If you replace the middle joint, the toothing needs to be aligned so that it fits exactly with the original holes for the screws. It doesn't matter with the joint on the differential, as the shaft is not balanced with the differential. In my case, the joint came off the gearing easily, but the new one was much harder to put back on. It's best to mark the joint, disassemble it and heat up the inner part. Then it's easier to assemble. Important!!!!! The inner part and the outer part look like a star with large and small points. There is always a large and a small one facing each other. If you put them together incorrectly, the joint will block. The screws on the differential and in the middle have different lengths. If you replace the rubber center bearing, note that this is not symmetrical. Some have an arrow in the rubber that points backwards, just like the rubber dots on the edge. Take photos beforehand! It's best to cut off the old rubber all around, clamp the bearing firmly in a vice and hit it firmly with a hammer. Put wood or copper underneath to protect the thread. The bearing is not very tight. You can't use a puller because there is a metal collar on the shaft behind the bearing. Handle the universal joint on the gearbox with care, do not hit it. The needle bearing is sensitive. If the joint cannot be detached from the differential, do not bend it and use force to remove it from the flange, as this could damage the joint. It is best to build a puller and press against the joint from behind. The Thread is M10x1,25 The Torque Specs If you have still any vibration you can choose another position of the Propshaft with the Gearbox and the differantial. I hope this is helpfull to anybody! regards Kai

Here is a short Tutorial How to replace the Engine Mounts by lowering the front axle Member. After 20-30 years it is always a good Idea to replace them , even if you vibrations or a buzzing noise. Also Replace the Mounting of the Gearbox and the Proppelershaft! I couldn`t find anything about this so here I explain how I have done it. First you have to jack the car and fix the Engine from moving around, this is important cause you get int trouble later when the scrwholes not aligne . Then you hang the engine at the Engine Bay. I have a special Bracket but a Tube and a Strapband will work also. I made myself a link which is screwd at the Engineblock After everything is prepared you can start to remove all the nuts. Start with the 4 nuts of the Powersteering and the clamps of the oil lines. There is a clamp on the left side over the cv shaft which is a little bit hidden the otherers are easy to locate. Double check everything is slack, you don't want to bend the lines! The next step is the trickiest part. Loose the nuts of the Engine Mounts, 3 of them are easy to reach but the one under Turbo is hard to loose cause there is not much room. After I tried all my 14mm wrenches, and I have a lot, i figured out this solution. This a 14mm Gearwrench ratchet with a extendeble double Tube. The wrench has to be flat without an angle and it should be really long cause the nut is really thight. With this tool you can get there from the gearbox side and you should be able to remove it. Before you loose the Axle Member check the aligne holes between the bolts! Do they match? Take a photo. Mine had a little offset . Loose the Nuts to the end of the Bolt, do NOT remove them completly. Then carefuly lower the jack , stop and check if everything is loose and the member ore the line are not bend or stuck. Remove the nuts on the right side and lower the Jack until you can get the Rubbermount out. Replace it with the new one , lift the jack , insert the nuts. Do NOT thight them . Same on the other side. Compared to the new the olds are 2mm lower and on the Turbo side they hafe some cracks. Tighten the Nuts of the Axlemember , then the Steeringrack and the Oillines. Here are the Tightingtorque specs. Tighten the Steeringrack the right way! First the upper Bolts then the lower ones . This are the required Tools Took me 5 hours total including making the hook and wrench extension, all this is not too complicated, but it's better if you've done similar things before. Possible this is helpfull to someone.

A quick Tutorial how to make your own custom Horn Button for any Brand. I like the "Old Logo" Nismo but won`t pay any crazy Price for an original Horn Button. So I manufacure my own. This is how a Momo Hornbutton looks like, the other Brands are similar First you have to grind the Buttonplate so you get a even surface. If you have a metal Plate, like newer have, you can make a plastic plate yourself. Then you need a new Logo, the easiest way is to print it out. To get this chromelook like the original Nismo one, it is a little bit tricky. The color from a Homeprinter won`t stick on such a glossy surface. I tried Ikea Chrom giftpaper and printable Chromfoil , but the slightest touch will leeve a scratch. To avoid this you better cover it FIRST with epoxy resin and the cut it out. The wrench nut are only to get a even surface. The better solution ist to buy professionel Sticker for some bucks. Like this one with the white lettering. Apply some water on the plate, so you can move the sticker in the perfect position. See plate on the left side, remove water with a squeegee. Finished is on top. The topcoat this with some Epoxy Resin. There are a lot of tutorials on YT Keyword: Jewellery Resin ! So i keep it short here. You neeed 2-3g for each layer Use a exact scale Steer well Heat it up under a bulb to get Bubbles out. Cool down Make sure the Plate is even Then pour carefully from the middle onto the plate, making sure that no bubbles form. Not too much, wait until until it's all gone to the brim. Add more until it arches slightly but does not overflow. If you use a Print on Copypaper, then first add one layer to cover the print and cut it out after it has dried. If not the Resin crawls into the Paper at the Edge and gives a glossy shine. You can always add a second layer without problems. Here is the Vector Graphic file. This is my first attempt, so If anyone has there some skills in vector graphics he can have a look and possibly remove my faulis. Hupenknopf Nismo Old Logo.zip I hope this is useful to someone ! Perhaps you can share your own design here !

Of course, I only drilled through the top sheet metal and I don't think there is any advantage in drilling several holes. The grease creeps over long distances over time. WD 40 is definitely better than nothing but look around for special anti-rust agents. Mike Sanders sends worldwide, ok that is certainly not cheap but cheaper than having to replace the metal sheets. Except that it doesn't look nice in the places where the grease escapes, there are no negative effects on plastic or technical parts. it shouldn't drip on the brake, but that should be clear. Here is a comparison of diffrent anti rust agents. Sorry only in German. oldtimer_markt_rostschutz-test_teil_1.pdfoldtimer_markt_rostschutz-test_teil_2_1.pdfoldtimer_markt_rostschutz-test_teil_3.pdf

Rust on the struttower is always a big problem. I am not affected by this, but to keep it that way, it is necessary to preserve the sheets on top of each other well. To do this, I drilled a 1.5mm hole at a point where the welded sheets are as far apart as possible. This can be seen from the fact that the welding points are pulled down. Then I injected anti-rust oil (fluid film A) with a 1,5mm needle and a syringe, 10ml per side, which I repeated 2-3 times with a few weeks apart. The oil is relatively thin and creeps into all the seams and cavities between the metal sheets. It can also penetrate existing rust, but this takes a long time. After 6 months I repeated this with rust protection grease (Mike Sanders), the grease has to be heated up well so that it is liquid enough to be processed with the syringe. This NEVER gets hard and creeps for years, this is supported by the fact that the engine compartment is always very warm. This approach is very common here and has been successfully tested. I have gradually treated all cavities in the car with it. The only downside is you have to wipe off any leaking grease at the seams and holes. The rust certainly no longer has a chance for that. Here you can see the grease creeping out the seams I hope this is helpful to someone Kai

Yes I think so. Depending to the Bracket you will use, but there is enough room to get it mounted lower

I made a completly new bracket which let me to remove the original ones to get more clearance https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477177-r33gtr-front-oilcooler-install/

After installing an Oil cooler I want to protect the engine when starting by supplying the turbos and all other components with oil before starting. So I purchased an Accusump form Canton Racing It choosed the smalest 1QT accusump and the Electric valve #24-271X After 8 Month of use I am absolutely thrilled. It works absolutely perfect. Before starting, switch the ignition on for 5 seconds until the oil control lamp is off. I was initially concerned that the pressure in the memory would decrease over a long period of time as I do not drive the GTR very often, but that is not the case. Even after 5 weeks, the pressure in the accumulator is the same as on the first day. For safety, there is an oil pressure switch on the valve that opens the valve when the pressure in the engine drops. The 2QT memory is recommended, but because of the limited space in the GTR, I have chosen the smallest with 1QT. For everyday use and from time to time on the racetrack, that's completely OK. The installation is simple, actually. The line is connected with a T-piece between the oil cooler and the engine. Electrically, I have a switch to turn it off so that when you turn on the ignition for other reason than to start, the memory is not emptied. The problem is the space, I wanted to keep the oil line short, so I put it under the headlight. The good thing is you can see the pressure gauge through the side wall opening and and you can fill up the air pressure too. But you have to move the tire valve and the pressure gauge upwards at a 90 ° angle. Actually, you should install a Checvalve towards the engine to prevent the pressure from flowing off via the oil pump. Unfortunately, there is no room for that at my installtion. The pressure loss is probably very low because it works that way. I recommend that for every car to add some prtection. It is easier to install than an extended OilPan or even a dry sump. Hope this is helpfull to someone ! Kai

Small update ! I made the bracket out of aluminium and gave it a little polish

I have the english Owners Manual from JPNZ but not the Cover Does it look like thie one ? I`m pretty sure that some of you guys know it better than me Thanks !

Here i will show what is inside the R33 Models Headlight and what the diffrence is. When i converted my Headlight to LHD to make them Streetlegal in Germany i found it hard to find some inside pics especially from Xenons. It was my goal that you can undo it and leave the original Parts untouched and that everything will fit in the housing and the original rear cap will stays in place. There is a very good Tutorial for R32 conversion here :R32 Headlight conversion there you can find a lot of useful tips so i won`t go too much in the details cause there are a lot of individual things to consider for each conversion. With Xenons there is a lot of space inside I have made a Alu sheet with three square holes to fit the Plastic nuts in . There you can bolt your new Projectorlense on . These Hella Lenses are the only ones with Certificate in Germany I don`t recommend them the Light is crap compared with the Xenons. There is less space in the S1/ S2 Housing. It is hard to get the Bulb under the Cap. I had to extend the Bulb Connector with adittional cable. You have to make a bezel instead of the original reflector Glass. Use the two plastic nuts and the small balljoint from the original reflector for the new brackets . ATTENTION: DO NOT USE THE GLASS OF THE REFLECTOR AS REFERENCE for the bulb Axis!! The Glass is inclined to the Bulb Axis as you can see here. To Make this Brackets is lot more work than the sheet for the Xenon! This is only my suggestion , there are for sure a lot more solutions depending on your needs.

I know about that ! When i order from Japan they cost 25US$ each. At the end when they arrive in Germany including Tax and Shipping they cost 50US$ AND the repair is easy and takes only a few minutes , why not give this a try. Most common Problem is that the rear one is not used and the motor gets stuck

My rear Washerpump was not working so I dissasembled the Pump. First cut the small gap on the top, you can squeeze the housing gently . It is glued with superglue so its hard and will crack. The cap will come off easy. Remove the inner Parts. Remove the connector Housing, press the holders (inside) with a pincer . DO NOT DAMAGE THE CONTACTS! be carefull. you can pull from outside with a screwdriver, but i damaged the seal . Clean everything, remove rust and then grease the shaft. Then put everything together, the motor first then the connector. Make a test run for some minutes to get the motor warm so the grease gets into the bearing. If you want a substitute, the front ones were used in serveral Nissan Models in this period, the rear one is also used in Nissan Petrol / Ford Maverick Models. You can get them both new on Aliexpress for 30$ ,Tank included BUT the housing is to 5mm to high, without the metal housing they will fit. Possibley one can use heatshrink sleeve .

So a little update : I brought the Shocks to Bilstein for an overhaule. For 480€ the came with new Rods an new front rubber bushings. They Changed the complet setting to Road use, cause i mostly drive on Country Roads. Now it is more comfortabel, like the stock shocks. Bilstein says the original setting was for Track use only, rock hard. Then I gave them a new paint and polished the springplate. For the Boots i used VW ones , cause originals are not available. FebiPart No.08071 The Top Bushings are KYB SM 5123 i had to shorten them for 1cm . on the left hand the orginal Shocks , on the right the Bilstein shocks

Thanks Mate

Hello I removed my NISMO Carbon Sticker from the End Caps of the Rearwing. On the Left Cap is the GTR Logo the right Side is blank. On the backside there are Nissan Parts No. The Parts catalouge No. is correct. I found some web pics that are the same . Why is there only on the left side a Logo? Are there diffrent options ore is this original ? I`m a little bit confused Regards Kai

Thanks Mate I will do so !

Hello I have to put a new Gearbox in my R33GTR ( car is nearly stock) I want to exchange the EXEDY twinplate clutch (too Heavy) to a new Exedy Stage 1 too. My question : Do I have to oil the new Pilot bush or is it pre oiled? ( I have the original Workbook but it says nothing about that, searched the Forum too) Is there even more to consider? Regards Kai

Hi I`m looking for this Part Nr. 4852179T00 The boot for the Hicas rod! I can`t find a substitute. Possible some will fit from any other car. Would be good i can find the part in Germany, shipping cost from Au are much top high for such a cheap part.

to make the Precut 3mm smaller is too much , but it is depending on your Leather. I could stretch my Lether sheet more or less depending on the direction. So my way to solve this: I left the last 2cm to the knob untouched, with enough Lether left . I put the Leather on the Lever as shown above and at last i cut the Leather and make the puncture and the 4 stitches. Make shure the Leather is really tight and you will be able to get it under the rabbet easily.

For sure there is nothing " special" This Shocks are similar to the old Bilstein B16 Model. I only want to know for what purpose they are! They are not listed in any Nismo Catalogue i found, but why ? they were not sold to end customers? I will testdrive them and if needed i will let them overhaul by Bilstein

Bilstein has no information. Send an Email to Nismo Nobody any Information out there???

Thanks ! The Numbers of the shocks are diffrent thats true. Bilstein front 56110 RS 598 rear 56210 RS 598 The Numbers of the Springs are the same 55020 RS 598 at the moment im waiting for a recall from Bilstein they have their Headquarter 29km away and they can rebuild the shocks for a reasonable price.