Stronzo

There was two different models of powerfcs for R33. They have different model numbers RB25-... and ECR33-... and use different models of hand controllers.

26 crank has longer stroke, rods are equal (in size, but 26`s are stronger), pistons are different. block height is the same, head cc is almoust th same (25 a bit smaller) 26 or aftermarket rods is a must as 25 rods are weak. 26 crank + 25 pistons will have CR too high or what BHDave said. The best option is 26 crank+rods+pistons in 25 block. i do the same thing for myself now.

1. Walbro 255 intank 2. Was absolutely quiet wired directly (without FPCM, as my car was N/A), after rb25det FPCM setup it become noisy at idle (at lower revs). paradox . I think i will wire it directly again. 3. awkw -- i don`t know. ENR33, 4wd, stock rb25det NEO @0.65 bar so far. starts better than with stock pump (it started twice with stock pump everytime). installation was not direct bolt on as i had a kit for Mitsubishi EVO, not for Skyline. There was some issues with fixing the pump on the frame. Buy i think with the right kit it will be ok.

Klenn thank you for report. Does it have a nipple (or a hole for a nipple) for turbo water-feed near cyl. No 6? Where is your washer bottle now? Is it relocated or totaly removed?

and you will have to change connectors to use bosch or siemens injectors as they are "bosch style" and r34s are "denso style".

disconnecting the battery while engine is running is a risk to damage the alternator`s governor. to check alternator just measure voltage @battery terminals, normal value is 12.3-12.8v with engine off and ~ 13.2-14.5v with engine on and healthy alternator.

here it is:

is it needed to remove the washer tank to fit this manifold+90mm throttle and piping in R33? also is there a water feed outlet for turbocharger near the 6 cyl.?

this diagram misses pin 56 explanation -- a valuable pin for HNR32 (gts-4). it is TPS signal output to E-TS controller. afaik it also is used in auto transmission control.

thank you for your help. afaik RB25 stroke is 71.7, not 72. And it seems to me that rb25 ans rb26 have slightly different combustion chambers (rb26`s a bit larger): some data pieces found via google: wiseco`s catalogue says rb25 head is 66.5 cc, and rb26 head is 70cc http://www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Catalogs/SC06_Nissan.pdf here is 62cc@rb25: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/186816 here is 63cc@rb25 and 64cc@rb26^ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/lo...hp/t119495.html where is the truth? i just want to know what CR will my engine have...

what is exact dia for injectors in the rail? does it have two inlets at each side and one outlet in the center?

if u want a wiring diagram for bnr32 there is one in bnr32 workshop manual available on the net. unfortunately it is black&white and very low quality . u can try downloading it here (24Mb): http://hotrod.8.com1.ru/skyline/R32/gtr_32...vice_manual.pdf

yes, i thought so too. 9:1 for stock rb25det and 8.5 for stock rb26.

You can make adaptor plates yourself that`s not easy but not impossible. Or you can buy it from yahoo: http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k37245638 as far as i know yahoo staff needs custom machining.

i don`t think i can help you with prices cause we have another prices here. but theese are the figures i remember: i got my car for $13K 2.5 years ago. It was ENR33 auto. Now it`s turbo and manual with 5studs and turbo brakes. The box was about $800 for a box + installation, engine was about $3-3.5K (engine+install+all small bits), brakes was about $600. All parts was from wrecked domestic cars, not directly from Japan. Now i`m building a new engine from my old 25de using parts from Japan (Yahoo) and already invested more than 4K and it is far away from the finish. And i want a gtr gearbox, this will be about $1000 from Japan delivered and it may need a rebuild.

if you are looking for making it turbo in future it is not bad idea to buy an auto gts4 for cheap and swap engine and tranny at one time. Use rb26 box as they are a bit stronger and gear ratios better suit the turbo engine.

seems that your hack works ok with a-lsd, but not with 4wd. i`ll post road testing results of my electronic amplifier here in the end of this week.

4wd car body is different. this is the main limiting factor.

about 4wd + pfc -- it is not compatible. i checked this . It is not very simple to dignose: When you install pfc 4wd warning light comes out as always. But after 30 min of driving i noticed that the car drives uncomfortably. The worse case -- while parking or slow big angle turns -- car feels to drive very hard. While parking (big angle slow turn) when i push the clutch -- car stops immediately (especially on reverse). That means that attesa is always locked with pfc it is full time 4wd without central differential. I checked why it is so. Stock ecu (i have rare one for A-LSD ecr33) mirrors TPS signal to attesa from pin 56. PowerFC has constant 4.5v on that pin. So my attesa thinks my right foot is nailed to the floor and predictibly locks the torque 50/50. We already made a special electronic scheme to mirror TPS voltage to the e-ts controller outside of ecu. I will take it to the road testing on Friday. This will allow to fix a power fc incompatibility with a-lsd or 4wd. This will allow to use any 2wd ecu in such vehicles. 2paulr33: i tried to use your way of fixing this from DIY section -- and found that it is incorrect. i will pm you details.

ok, got rb26 crank, pistons and rods at yahoo auctions. no way back Can anyone tell me what CR i will have in a combination of: rb25 block and head rb26 pistons, rods and crank stock head gasket As far as i know CR will be slightly higher than 8.5 as rb25 combustion chamber is smaller than rb26. rb25 cc volume is 62-64cc, what about rb26?

i`m back again, thank you for your replies, now i`ll answer your questions: why i want to use _stock_ pistons (not forged) -- because here, where i live we sometimes have +35 C in summer and -35 C in winter. Forged pistons are pain for a street car with low to moderate power output (imho) and are nearly impossible to use at winter . that`s why. what`s my power goals -- 350+. no more than 400 hp at the flywheel. i think it will be enough for me . In Russia in Far East region where 95% of all cars are used cars from Japan -- experienced skyline tuners say that can be acived at 26 pistons only. why i don`t want to use 26 crank -- it`s quite expensive if i buy it new and hard to find it in good condition if i buy it used. The reason i`m doing this -- i mesured compression in my rb25det neo, and it is: 12-12-11.5-10.7-11-12 -- i`m not happy with it so i`m thinking what to do next. i have variants: 1. try to fix my current engine (not interesing, and hard to order parts before disassembling motor) 2. buy 26 motor -- i have a cheap proposal but it has no documents and hard to understand what is inside of this motor. and there is much job to install it. 3. build a mega-motor from my old rb25de -- install oil injectors, good pistons, turbo -- etc. this is the most interesting but i think the most expensive variant. so now i`m desperate -- i can`t make a decision

to deck 2mm fron the block -- yes that`s the only way i was thinking about. I want to use rb26 pistons as they are stronger than rb25. p.s. Well maybe if i can find neo 25 pistons -- i can use them. But they are still weaker the 26`s.

hello, i want to put rb26 pistons and rods in my rb25 block leaving rb25 crank. As i know rb26 piston have ~ 2mm lower pin location and CR of such conversion will be to low -- lower than 8.5. What can be done to leave CR in between 9-8.5?

N-switch gives ground to pin 44 of ECU while gearbox is in neutral gear. R-switch enables the beeper and white lights. in MT cars connectors for theese are in the engine loom, in AT cars theese signals can be found in the connectors near the fuse box.

i have NEO 25det controlled by ECR33 ecu. NVCS is wired correctly and working in some way -- i`ll try to disconnect it and try to see the difference .