Dyzzii

Possibly a bit of a positive / update. I removed the motor, and manually applied power to it and it spun happily both ways. The contacts themselves all seem to respond when they should when the main trigger wheel contacts the metal inside as well. Regardless, I pulled the motor apart and cleaned all the metal contacts, re-greased them with electrical grease and greased the gears. So it actually looks like the mode door actuator is in good working order. However I now have no idea where to start looking from an electrical perspective. I'm hoping the central, main climate control unit isn't the culprit - but I believe that will have to be my next check. Just I don't know what I should be expecting it to do.

Have been trying to tackle an issue with my R32 GTR's climate control unit for a while now, and finally got some time to try and work out what's wrong. Basically, when I push the 'mode' button, it doesn't change where air is blowing - nor when I push the windscreen button. The door mode actuator just doesn't seem to move at all. Here is what I have done and found so far, but i'm honestly stuck at this point: I've pulled the mode actuator out and pulled the 'locking' gear off, and re-plugged the unit in - and when attempting to change modes the actuator arm still doesn't spin (however, it can now be spun by hand). When carrying out the diagnosis built into the climate control unit, I get the '31, 32, 34, 35, 36' pattern displayed when in Step 3 - door mode position check. This indicates a connector issue, but the connector is definitely plugged into the actuator. The voltage from the pins on the loom that plugs into the actuator doesn't appear to change when I change modes - I thought they would (for example, I thought it would read different when at 'feet' vs 'windscreen'. The voltage readings I got (going from left to right with the pins at the bottom) were: 0v, 0v, 0v, 0v, 4.7v, 4.7v, 0v, 4.7v, 4.7v, 0v. Any help or assistance here would be much appreciated.

Ah that makes sense. I'm not super clued up on all of the inner-workings of this sort of thing, but did have a feeling they may not be compatible.

That was something I considered, but then if I went through a tunnel etc any speed related features would spaz out. I could be going through a tunnel and all of a sudden launch control would activate when the GPS loses its speed signal. Also i've gathered speedos can't be GPS based in order to pass a Warrant of Fitness check (6 monthly / annual vehicle checks required over here in NZ), so unfortunately it wasn't an option for me! Super desperate to see if someone can test the R33 GTR speedo directly into the R32 speed inputs, as I have a sneaking suspicion it will work. Just not something I was able to verify as I had pinned something wrong and didn't realise until it was rewired directly to the ECU!

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Hi all I have just completed a PowerTune standalone digital dash install into my R32 GTR, and found there wasn't much guidance online around some of the nuances involved into doing this into the R32 GTR. I apologize in advance for not taking many photos of the project, but I will do the best I can to recollect and detail what is involved. Many hiccups came from how the R32 GTR gets its speedo signal to the different computers in the car, as me removing the OEM speedo causes that signal to be lost and messes with the HICAS and Power Steering systems in the car. Removing the OEM cluster also meant my ECU lost its speed reference, messing with any speed-related settings in the ECU itself. I.E launch control. It was super scary going into this with so many unknown factors, so my hope is that this helps at least one person do the same swap. For reference, this install was done in a car with a Link G4+ ECU, however the premise will be the same for any ECU. As I get time I can upload whatever photos and videos I have from the project in an attempt to make things clearer, and am happy to do my best to help others with the install. However, I am not super active on these forums, so flick me an instagram message and i’d be happy to lend a hand (@__DEZIAH). First up, everything we used to install the Powertune dash and do all of the plugs: PowerTune Digital Dash + GPS Unit Mako Motorsports R32 Dash Mount Mako Motorsports LED Lights: Indicators, High Beam, 4WD, Check Engine Light, Door Open, Handbrake, ABS, Battery, Oil Pressure Wiring basics (Wiring tools, wire, loom tube, heat shrink, insulation tape etc) Link CAN Expansion Loom Digital Dash Fuel Level Dampener (My particular one was from Spiyda) OEM Nissan R33 GTR Gearbox Speed Sensor 1x 8 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 12 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 1x 4 Way DTM Deutsch Connector 2x 2 Way DTM Deutsch Connector Some of these parts may not be needed depending on how you want to do your install. I wanted to retain the functionality of the OEM harness, so that I could swap back to the OEM speedo if necessary and have it all work (all i'd have to do is reconnect the OEM speedo cable to the gearbox). I wanted it to be easily removable and tidy so we went with deutsch connectors to make the connection to the dash. I wanted the LED lights to be external to the dash for my warnings (and indicators, high beam etc), and most importantly I wanted fuel level to function and display on the dash. Preparing for the installation Start by removing anything and everything possible that could be in your way. Remove all of your interior trim pieces around the cluster, remove the OEM cluster, steering wheel etc etc. You want as much room to work as you can to make this process as easy as possible. I'd also suggest dropping your steering column to its lowest point to give you that extra little bit of room too. Wiring The LED's This was most likely the most time consuming part of the install. Because I wanted to retain functionality of the OEM harness, alot of splicing was required here in order to make that happen. I also wanted it to be tidy and easily removable, hence the use of multiple deutsch connectors. Below is what pins we spliced from the OEM harnesses, and what Deutsch connector we put them into. You don’t have to copy this exactly, and there may be a more optimal setup of where to pin everything, but this is what we did and it works. Function OEM Power OEM Ground DTM Power DTM Ground Indicators - Left 4 16 DTM 12 - Pin 1 DTM 8 - Pin 1 Indicators - Right 3 16 DTM 12 - Pin 2 DTM 8 - Pin 2 ABS 25 7 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 8 - Pin 5 Battery 25 17 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 4 CAT Temp Sensor / CEL 25 29 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 5 Handbrake 25 12 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 6 High Beam 18 19 DTM 8 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 7 Door Open 25 30 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 8 4WD 31 32 DTM 8 - Pin 4 DTM 12 - Pin 9 Oil Pressure 25 34 DTM 12 - Pin 3 DTM 12 - Pin 10 These were wired into the Mako Motorsports LED’s which came with my dash, so it was as simple as matching them up and off we went. Be sure to test all of them as you go, as you don’t want to be chasing issues once you’ve completed all of your wiring. I have a bunch of videos showing all of this, but i’m unsure how to upload them here (or if I even can). Wiring The Fuel Level Dampener + Fuel Level The fuel level dampeners purpose is to stop your fuel level jumping all over the place. Without this, your fuel level signal will be jumping up and down and be an absolute nightmare to look at. The dampener requires a 5v power source to work, so we used one of my ECU’s spare 5v outputs to provide that power. My ECU also has a ‘sensor ground’ input, so we used that for the ground signal. Pin 6 on the factory harness is the fuel level signal, so that was spliced into to give the dampener the signal it was after. And it was then sent to the ECU using one of the spare sensor inputs. I did not bother wiring up a low level warning LED, as I could set up my dash to display one if I wanted. But who really relies on one of those to tell you that you’re running low on fuel in a car like this. The signal that comes out of my fuel dampener then runs to an Analogue input on my ECU, and the ground goes to the sensor ground input on my ECU. My ECU can now see my fuel level (after I calibrate it of course - of which I will outline further down). Installing The New Speed Sensor The R33 GTR speedo sensor slots straight in and works in the R32 GTR transfer case. Meaning this is a literal swap in and out job. Remove the one bolt holding your speedo cable in, unscrew the cable, then use a flathead to leverage the sensor out of the transfer case. You will lose some fluid doing this, so be prepared to re-fill it. Note: you can fill the transfer case back up through the gear shifter, as that is connected to the transfer case, NOT the gearbox in the R32 GTR. Wiring The R33 GTR Speed Sensor Due to the factory mechanical speedo drive in the R32’s, removing the OEM cluster creates a lot of issues. The car converts the mechanical signal that the cable gives the cluster, and converts it into an electronic one which is then sent out to multiple other computers in the car. This affects things like HICAS, Power Steering, and any ECU speed related controls. This means if you remove this connection, lots of this stuff breaks. Fortunately, it DOES NOT use this for the Atessa system, so your 4wd system WILL NOT be affected. There was so much conflicting information around this, with no clear answers. I have now done this myself, and can confirm 4wd works perfectly fine. I do not have an aftermarket 4wd controller. Our original hope was that we could wire the R33 GTR electronic speedo drive straight into the OEM speedo input wires on the loom (pin 13 for power, and pin 14 for ground), as in theory everything else would then work as intended. Power steering won’t get upset, and HICAS would still work normally. However when we attempted this, we made a mistake with the pinouts in our DTW connector, meaning it was not working. So we ended up wiring the electronic speedo drive directly to the ECU instead. Only then did we realize we had wired it incorrectly, so that it could have likely gone into the OEM location and all worked as intended. However we haven’t been able to confirm this, so it would be awesome if someone else giving this a try, can check and confirm. The rest of this guide assumes that this will not work. All of my calibration stuff in my ECU software can be found further down into the writeup. Power Steering Issue Explained The R32 GTR has a ‘speed-assisted’ power steering system, which adjusts how much power steering assistance you get based on how fast you are going. This means you get assistance at lower speeds, but it reduces as your vehicle speed increases in an attempt to improve overall steering feel. Whilst an awesome system in concept, when you’re messing around with the speedo sensor, it breaks it. Once your oem speedo signal no longer works, around 30 seconds to a minute after you begin driving your power steering will become extremely heavy and basically turn off. IT goes into some form of failsafe mode as it gathers something has broken, and reverts to the lowest assist setting it has. You’ll have found this happen if you’ve ever snapped a speedo cable too. The OEM system uses a voltage regulator based on speed to determine how much power is send to the power steering unit, ultimately adjusting therefore how much assistance you get. This leaves us with two possible fixes. Power Steering Issue - Fixes First fix (the one I did), wiring in a voltage converter and setting it at a certain voltage to give the motor a constant voltage at all times. This means your power steering will have a constant feel at all times, so its a bit of a balancing act getting it right. Too much voltage going to the motor, steering feel will be extremely light at high speed. Too little, and steering will be too heavy at low speed. I purchased one from Jaycar (part number AA0236), and wired it in, bypassing the OEM system. Ryno did an awesome writeup of how to do this, so i’ll link that below. Personally, I set my voltage regulator to around 6 volts, as I liked the steering feel. This is all up to personal preference, and I dont mind it being a bit heavier at low speeds to have great feel when i’m actually driving. (Ryno’s writeup: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453968-r32-heavy-power-steering-how-to-disable-speed-variable-assist-steering-and-control-power-assistance-level/). I mounted mine above my brake pedal - that way the metal heat sink can dissipate heat effectively, its not in the way of anything, and I can easily adjust it if I ever feel the need. I’m sure you could also get fancier and wire this to some sort of dial and be able to control your power steering assist on the fly. But at this point, I just wanted it working. The second fix, which is more complicated - is to use your ECU to control the speed sensitive power steering. I’m not super clued up on this, but you could essentially use your ECU to control the power steering motor. This link here detailed a bit of how to do this, but I never delved into it as it doesn’t bother me. https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/reinstating-speed-sensitive-power-steering-without-hicas.507017/ HICAS Removing the speedo signal will also break your HICAS. However I absolutely hate HICAS, so it is removed from my car, meaning this is a non-issue for me. I’m sure there is also a way to fix this, but it is likely along the same lines as getting your ECU to control your hicas motor. Otherwise, be noted that HICAS will either outright not work, or act very strangely if you remove your OEM speed signal. Wiring In The Dash So at this point, you should have functional warning lights (indicator etc), power steering should be working again, and your ECU should be able to see your vehicle speed and fuel level. Now comes the easy part, wiring the dash itself. This particular dash just needed a 5v power signal (it comes with a 12v - 5v converter), so we used that directly into one of the cars ignition sources. You need to ensure you use a good, strong signal for this, otherwise the dash will have issues with running under power and may not operate correctly. We went for an ignition source instead of accessory as I didn't want or need the dash running whilst I am just listening to music etc. We then made a new ground for the dash and put it onto a bolt that goes through the chassis. This particular dash uses CAN to get the signal from the ECU and came with the required wiring. We plugged the supplied plug into CAN-2 on the ECU, and screwed the wires into the back of the dash. Not much more explanation really needed here. Calibration Now in theory, everything should be visible and working. All your signals and warning lights should work, your dash should power on, and your ECU should be able to see everything. Now, we just need to teach the ECU what everything does and means. Then, we need to tell the ECU to actually broadcast this data to the dash. (The calibration data is all on my laptop which I do not currently have access to - I will upload further when I can). My speed calibration settings: My fuel level calibration settings: My CAN broadcast settings: My custom fuel level CAN broadcast settings:

Hi all Am about to do a digital dash swap in my 32 GTR, and am currently investigating the speedo signal issue. I'll be converting the car to run an electronic speed sensor using an R33 GTR unit, and wiring that into the ECU to give it a speed signal. My question is, will I also have to do something with the atessa system, since the OEM speedometer will no longer be fitted? Am struggling to get clarity anywhere as to whether the R32 Atessa system uses the OEM speedometer output for any of the stuff it does. Any insight will be appreciated!

When talking overseas it's not pleasant for either party to have a solid 3-4 second delay before anything said is received by the other person. Makes the entire process a pain. I managed to find their website and email them, but appreciate the remark nonetheless

Is there a way I can contact them without phoning? As i'm unfortunately in New Zealand. If so I may flick them an email and see if they can arrange shipping one over! Appreciate the advice guys!

Hi all So i'm planning on putting a fair bit more power behind my 34. Is a factory Neo, 25det manual. However am struggling to find a good clutch option to hold 300kw (expecting somewhere between 500-600nm of torque). The issue i'm having is because the car is a pull type clutch, not push. I'm also struggling to find an actual in depth guide of converting the 34 gearbox to push type, which would instantly solve my issues. So basically i'm stuck looking for a clutch that can hold that power for pull type, because I cannot find many options over here in New Zealand. That, or has anyone had any experience or know of a guide that shows how to convert it to a push-type system? I'm not wanting to swap my gearbox for an R33 one, as mine is in perfect condition. Have heard something about potentially swapping the bellhousings over though? Any advice or light on the subject would be appreciated!

(Just for future reference for other people wanting fitment suggestions) I've got Work Meister S1 3P's on my 34 GTT. 18x9 +18p front on a 225/40R18 18x10 + 18p rear on a 255/35R18 Fitment is near perfect. Minimal camber in the rear too. Fronts I could probably have gone another half inch wider and cleared perfectly fine. Car is not sacked on its ass though as I hate guard rub. Only get a tiny bit as is if I go over a solid bump with a few people in the car. I have slightly pulled my fenders however.

Hey guys Am struggling to find a 2 door / coupe roof spoiler for my 34. All the ones i'm seeing seem to be for a 4 door. I'm assuming the rear glass is different for a four door, but wondering if these wings may fit anyway? Has anyone tried this or knows what fitment issues I may run in to?

I’ve never actually felt the timing pull noticably. To me it feels smooth and constant. I don’t believe it pulls timing every time, just occasionally.

Bugger i’m from New Zealand . I’l have to scout a few wreckers out online from here and hope to come across some. Am tempted to just go brand new to eliminate the issue but I guess that’s pointless as I still don’t definitively know what the issue is! Thankyou heaps for your help so far. Will likely have sorted some by the end of the week. Only issue is i’l have no idea if they’l fix the problem until its back on the dyno

Yeah that makes sense. Just weird to not have any CEL's or anything like that, but from what those other threads said it doesn't appear that they throw codes. Am I right in saying there are 2 knock sensors on the car? And if so, would you recommend replacing both of them, or just the one he is listening in on? May have to look around some wreckers for one and fingers crossed it helps!

I believe he is using the factory sensor. Do you guys happen to know what sensors are compatible for the 25det neo? Can i just get any neo knock sensor as a replacement? Or must it be 25det?

Oh wow have had a read of the knock sensor threads. Only thing is my tuner can hear it when listening in through headphones to the sensor? Or would the sensor potentially be magnifying the feedback that was just normal engine vibration and that’s what he’s hearing? i’d think he’d have suggested this to me though? He has a hell of a lot of experience with skylines and is a very respected tuner in NZ.

You think the knock sensor could potentially just be having a meltdown and pinging which is what he is hearing? That would make life a hell of a lot easier. This has completely lost me here haha, i know a fair bit about the workings of motors but am lost as to what you’re talking about here haha. Any more idiot-proof way of putting it? so you’re thinking is it’s more likely to be something else rather than the cam gear, as most past experiences had an audible noise at idle? Thanks heaps for your help so far too.

Appreciate the replies I will look into the part! And no I havent replaced the knock sensor. It appears to be working as intended so have had no reason to replace it. My main concern is that is a massive amount of cash to fork out to only “potentially” fix an issue. But I may just have to bite the bullet. No audible noise whatsoever at idle or outside the car. Listening to it pulling on the dyno you’d never know and the power/torque curves are fine which makes it even stranger. I’m worried at the fact he thinks it “might be” the culrpit. So difficult to diagnose as every time i replace something it would have to be chucked back on there to listen for the issue again.

Hi guys I've been lead to believe by my tuner that my VVT cam gear is making some noise. Around 5000rpm every single pull a noise is picked up by the knock sensor, which keeps going until about 5500rpm at which point it stops, and the ECU sometimes thinks it's knock and pulls timing to compensate. Tuner seems to think it is my intake cam gear, and believes it may be getting a bit noisy for some strange reason. Noise has been described to me almost as a "ddddrrrrrrdrrrrrdrrrrdrrrrrrrrdrrrrrrrr" (best way I can describe it on here) and happens every single pull. Can only be heard through the knock sensor which makes diagnosing it a real pain, as putting it on the dyno every time I replace a component is not even remotely practical. Normally this would not bother me enough to pursue, but because it is affecting how the car drives on some pulls, it's not something i'm happy to leave alone. He has also suggested that it could potentially be a lifter, but that seems very unlikely as these cars have solid lifters off memory. So I contacted Nissan, and am unable to get a brand new intake cam gear for less than $1,200 which is absolutely absurd. So i'm now contemplating other solutions to my problem, and have been thinking I would actually be better off going aftermarket cams with adjustable cam gears. However my setup is still relatively stock with a few bolt ons (front mount, exhaust, cold air intake, nistune ecu, stock turbo, stock injectors etc). So my questions really are: 1. Are there any other suggestions for what this noise could be? 2. What other solutions would I have rather than paying $1,200 for a gear from Nissan? 3. Would going cams on a setup as stock as this even be worth it? 4. How much power would I lose if I just went adjustable cam gears on the stock cams? On a side note, I have recently replaced the cambelt with a GATES timing kit as I was lead to believe that could have been the culprit. Mechanic told me the previous cambelt had not been done very well, and had likely been overtensioned. So this rules out the cambelt or any related tensioners to it, but could reinforce the idea of the cam gear being the culprit?... Appreciate any and all feedback!