Tardo

Just acquired an ER34 four door for a downstream project. Came with Rozza Altra which look ok but are a total pain to clean / maintain. Having been through the nightmare of sizing wheels for an S15, can anyone tell me if a set of CE28n 18 x 9.5 +22 will fit the R34?

Curiosity got the better of me so off I went to GT Auto at Slack's Creek for a tune. Made 452 KW, a bit over 600hp. Very Happy. Now just have to find a venue reopening to have some fun.

All done. Car has gone from a beast to a monster! Did a COBB stage three tune and the car is running so well I'm not bothering with a dyno. Only downside is having to drive with the windows down to savour the the brute note. Literally saved around $3K on installation quoted costs, so more than enough to pay for the skin grafts to knuckles etc. Having a hoist was a big advantage, although the trickiest part was installing the pod filters on the intake pipes. Actually resorted to KY! The big beware is the downpipe nut removal. NISSAN use these bloody one use pinch nuts which can be problematic getting off. See above. It was at least relatively accessible. It could have been much worse and this engine has 14K on it. Not sure I would risk it with a high mileage one. Oh, and that sheared stud removal took me four days and a lot of swearing!

Thanks, Bob. Based on the engine's predicted use, we will not pursue oil control any further. There is enough stuff to squeeze in the bay without having (hopefully!) to take a hammer to it. Again, thank you for the input.

Thank you for those replies. What we have is a 1994 RB26 with 145K on it and all cylinders above 150 compression. There are several Tomei mods. What we have been able to establish is: 1. A modified large capacity baffled sump post transfer case removal, (we did this), 2. Baffled rocker covers, 3. over cam oil diffusers, 4. N1 oil pump, new. We are not about to remove the head to investigate oil restrictors. We are not going to remove the sump to drill an access port for an oil drain. We are going to install an oil drain at the rear of the head going to either the rear turbo crankcase port, (going single turbo), or through a banjo fitting to the sump oil drain. The car is primarily a show car, not an all out race car in any driving format, so engine stress will be limited and monitored. Thanks again for the inputs and the info made available through the various forums.

Installing an RB26 into an S15 using R33 front crossmember and RB20 engine mounts. Has anyone got info on the clearance between the rear of the head and the firewall? Looking to install an oil drain on the rear head which will add about 30mm to the head length.

Agree with phillay, if you can find an 09 with all the mods done for a good price, go for it . Otherwise 11 or later when Nissan did the inevitable upgrade. Not sure about the psychology of 35 owners/sellers. Have the pleasure/privilege of running a 32, 34, 35, twin turbo350 and a JDM S15, among others. Always under pressure due space, rego and insurance etc, but when it comes down to it, there is simply no better car to get behind the wheel of. Just a fricking awesome car to drive, and always brings a smile when I touch that start button and hear that rumble! It would be the last to go.

Also agree with BLISTIC, hardly worth a tune for midpipes alone. Once you start down the dreaded upgrade path, watch out for the Kaching meter. Bought a set of pipes and then discovered there is no Accessport tune for that. Got to add the big intakes, fuel pumps and injectors which requires I think at least a stage 2 or maybe stage 3 tune to sync everything. Maybe next week if the world hasn't shut down.

My 2014 MY 2015 runs titanium midpipes. No idea what brand, but not a bad note. Have not had a tune as yet. Fitting Cobb catless downpipes, upgraded fuel pumps, ID1050x injectors and Big SF carbon intakes at the moment and will have a tune on completion. Not sure when as I managed to shear the turbo manifold stud on the left downpipe, the one at the 8 O'clock position. It was the last one so pretty pissed off, even more so when I broke a 3mm drill bit trying to drill it out. Off shopping tomorrow for a rescue bit and maybe one of those hollow diamond bits to drill around the HSS broken one. At least with this mexican beer flu around I have plenty of time to waste on cars.

I just ditched Famous for my MspecNur after they jacked my premium up 53%! Peter said their underwriter blindsided them end of Feb. I told him price hikes like that would put them out of business. Got a good deal from Shannons in the end.

Has anyone removed an SR20DET from below by taking out the mounts and front crossmember? Can it be done? Engine and gearbox in one go? Curious. Tardo

I think because the Millennial wanted a JDM. I'll ask him!

Update! Much stuffing around! Idiot who installed Tomei cams managed to bend the intake cam to the point where the intake valve was opening too late to allow fuel to match ignition in number 4 cylinder. All ok after $2K investigation/restoration! I now have a lot of time, sweat, (Brisbane) and effort invested in this car, only to see the engine parked as the Millennial pursues his clean hands, fully skinned knuckles approach to the RB26 conversion. I know, I know, don't castigate me, he will turn out to be ok. I think.

Thanks, all, for the advice. I hear you loud and clear, but the millenial is set on doing this and I'm just along for the ride. The S20 has new coils and plugs swapped out and the injectors cleaned and tested. I'll talk to East Coast and see what they can do.

So we have an S15, nice car, and we have started the collection process. Got the RB26, and have had the sump modified. In the meantime, the car is not running well. Missing completely on No4 cylinder. The SR20 has numerous mods including GK Tech rocker arm stoppers, Tomei valve guides etc. Have checked/changed coils and injectors. Compression is great, cylinder leak test (valves) coming up. My mechanic mate is thorough and professional, but he is not Jap fluent. In fact , he is a Europe/ Pom specialist and I am a little concerned he may be out of his depth in the analysis of the problem. Anyone know a Nissan specialist in Brisbane apart from the guys up at Caboolture?

Thanks, GTSBoy, you were correct about the SR20, one too many chardy's! Sadly, that option evaporated. While in the negotiating process, the seller actually came to the conclusion that an RB26 was a good idea and pulled the pin. While internet searches are great, I like , and have found, meeting face to face with guys who have done this mod, to be a better source of free flowing info. So the project begins. All I have to do is convince the Millennial to get his hands dirty!

Soo, looking to re engine an S15 with an RB 26 coupled to an R33 gearbox and drive train. I know S15's have had their RB20DET coupled to an R33 g'box using an adapter plate. The 26 won't need a plate, so I was wondering if it was pretty much a drop in bolt up situation. Anyone have any experience with this conversion? Tardo

Hey all, has anyone swapped OEM down pipes for COBB pipes? Mine have arrived but the install video seems highly cautionary with several warnings during the process. Just wondering if it is that bad, or are they just tin plating?

OK guys, just to close this thread, problem fixed. Special thanks to joshuaho96 for your input. I cannot understand the lack of knowledge of our "auto electricians". Had to go back to basics myself to discover that the TCM had an earth leakage, where three "tradesmen" had assured me that it was functioning as it should. The beast is now purring again. Again, thanks to all who offered advice. Tardo PS. Special day today with the delivery of our R34 Mspec Nur. I am very happy to be the custodian of this magnificent vehicle!!!!!

I've had three auto elecs look at this. Sadly, it doesn't involve changing a battery! Two others looked at the TCM as though it was from an alien spacecraft. The car isn't a daily so we will continue to plod along till we get to the bottom of this.

Just gets worse! Haltech checked out ok.Thinks, must be Mongoose alarm/immobiliser. Contact them, very helpfull. Steps provided to isolate the system. No joy, still no spark/fire! So, battery, ok, could make 30ks on the starter motor! Alarm/immobiliser bypassed, ECU checked ok, TCM tested ok, Spitfire coils etc ok. Still no spark impulse at input side of TCM. WTF!!! C'mon guys and girls, put on your thinking caps please! This is getting a bit surreal!

BTW, thanks to wildeagle44, Sam at Whiteys was very helpful and generous with his phone time!

Well, finally got online with Haltech, and it appears there may be an issue with the ECU, so off to Sydney it went. I just hope they find a problem, otherwise there will be a cheap GTR32 available!!!

So, fuel seems good. Replaced the plugs, tested the ignition module, all good, but still no spark. What is the next item upstream of the ignition module? I am running a haltech pro plugin ecu. Is there anything between that and the ignition module that could stop the spark? I am assuming the immobiliser is not the problem because the engine is cranking. Does any one know of a competent mobile auto sparky in the Brisbane area? Anything to save a tow! Tardo

Thanks, guys, still working through it, keep you posted!