Ronin 09

Anyone used OWS iridium plugs?

Brake blips good... picking kia rio out of your rear bar and boot bad... I seriously think he would have run up the back of me

What's wrong with it NOW? Nice work pred

inner east... hawthorn area

Hey Shan higher altitude = thinner air = less power though... How downhill we talking here? like 1-in-5 or 1-in-100?

nice don't have any higher res pics of the article do you? can you email them to crazed_asian(at)hotmail.com or post them up? PS that is a jap spec (must be demo) GTR... no antenna on roof, 's' badge rather than 'nissan' badge on bonnet, no side repeaters on guards... edit - just squint read part of the article... I just realised that this was brought in for the ATCC

I'm sorry that (again evidence of my suspicion that people are generally idiots) this f*cktard ruined the lives of so many by gunning down in cold blood the police officer. My condolences go out to his family, friends and relatives. rest in peace. ps I'm sure that if you added up the number of people who have commited serious crimes like murder who drive commodores and falcons they will far exceed the number who drive skylines... though I doubt we'll ever see the headline "man with white holden commodore guns down innocent people at the park" or alike...

I guess I shoud remove the bumper sticker "only pansies drive barinas and kia rios"

My 2c... when safety is involved, always buy the genuine article. It may be more expensive, but may very well save your life. eg. brakes - I will always upgrade the brakes as one of the first things on a car now, after historically upping the power beyond the scope of my brakes and running into a spot of trouble. I will always spend as much as I can on brakes. Conversely, a copy body kit (not that I would buy a body kit, I like factory stuff but that's an aside) may well look and do the job of a genuine kit (pending that you don't have to cut / remove the front bumper support etc), so in that case if the saving is substantial, then I'd say give it a go. I wouldn't take the gamble with a seat - what happens if, in the case you rear end someone the seat back collapses forward? or the seat frame rips out of the rails? not what you want...

I cannot believe it. Coming home from dinner tonight... little blue 90's barina f*cktard did the same thing, swerved left and right behind me, then tried to pass me on the WRONG side of the road! I know it's the wrong thing to do, but gave it a squirt and lost him. What is wrong with my car? Is there something on the arse I don't know about that says "act like a f*cktard behind me. do it, do it now!" or is this just bad luck?? Not kidding, twice in one day.

yeh i know chris - i reckon every 6 months i crack the $hits and it ends up in a post like this... I just don't get people.

I rarely drive my car now, maybe doing 200kms a fortnight. So when I do, I like to enjoy it. Today I go down to the servo to get some petrol, and on the way back a gay kia rio with like 4 pre pubescent f*cktards sit 30cms off my bumper and swerve side to side behind me. Then tries to go around me on the left, very nearly taking out a parked car then swerves in behind me again. I'm over it. Might have to give up driving on the street. I say we need a f*cktard register, like the spotted thread. Post up idiots to look out for. No 1 offender: Ghey bright blue Kia Rio. ok end rant.

you are a bad man

minidisc player?

Thanks mate, I spoke to him and he said that the 40mm is a bolt in solution with existing fan and shroud (for a 32 anyway) and the 57mm requires electric thermos and removal of shroud... didn't mention anything abour p/s pump... I think Ben runs a 40mm in his 33R, so if it works for him in his 500kW beast a 40mm should be ok for my low power jobbie

Without flares, no chance. AFAIK 18x9.5 +12 is about as far out from the hub as you will be able to get away without the wheels protruding the guards. That will be some FAT dish

raz0r$harP - I tihnk there is a group buy for PWR already - check FS group buy section Ash - is yours a 40mm race radiators jobbie? I have to invest after my 3-laps-to-overheat at Sandown a couple of weeks ago

He wasn't from Doncaster TMU was he? Last time I got defected near there the cop was really nice (apart from giving me a defect that is, which I deserved)... no fine though no roadworthy either Good luck!

What's a KOYO radiator worth? Wouldn't it be cheaper going local eg PWR?

Springvale rd is long... which section?

Roy - run one oil cooler on each side My oil temp sensor is on the sandwich block coming out of the engine to the oil cooler, so gives the high reading. I'd like to get an oil temp sender on the feed back from the cooler side with a switch to the gauge see what the temp drop is across the cooler

Keeps the noise down when flowing at low RPM - concept is the same as air box resonator thingies - but i guess the theory is that when flowing full throttle gas it doesn't have an effect I think Mugen exhausts have a boil like this as well

My car is pretty low, and haven't had any issues so far. When I've been at the track I've come off once or twice, and the gravel / ripple strips haven't done anything nasty so far... It is quite well tucked up such that if you did rip it off there would be some pretty devastating other damage anyway such as sump, lower arms of suspension etc. hope that helps

Scooby, Mine is on the front of the crossmember on the driver's side

Lucky I just completed my vehicle modification to ensure that the flux capacitor can now be fed with food waste scraps rather than petrol... will save me a packet! Even passes EPA requirements! Take that cops!