Ronin 09

what are the spring rates of the JICs?

wish I had a camera... someone pls take a pic of it... it was in one week parked on Pyrmont st right near Star City hotel entrance a couple of times in the morning about 8

I live in Sunny Melb, and was up for the week in Sydney for work. We stayed at Star City and twice while I was walking to work along Pyrmont st I spotted this atrocity of a car, license plate 'CRUSN'. It's an early 90's prelude: *electric blue metallic *half headlight conversion with 4 little bug headlights *FMIC (didn't stop to see if it was real) *16" late model civic rims :confused: *grey vinyl retrim *R32 rear lights :throwup: *spelt across the rear end, where 'prelude' would usually be - 'flip'... please explain.

oh yeah, and be aware, the dump section is much longer than the original pipes (eg HKS direct replacements), so you can't just use the front pipe to your original cast dumps. The wastegate pipe plumbs back into the main exhaust about 30cm downstream of the turbo. Hope that helps

Hi guys, sorry about the delay on replies - I'm interstate and have limited access... Anyway, feedback on the dumps. In the end I ordered the exhaust mainfold gasket from Greenline, and 2 new turbo gaskets and dump-to-back-of-turbo gaskets from Nissan, as I wasn't convinced the gaskets that come with the pipes were that great. I have a friend who is a mechanic who decided to tackle the task. In the end it took him two weeks of buggering around - it is a turbo off job. I'm assuming this is how he did it: Remove all intake stuff. Unbolt front pipe from cat end. Remove oil and water feeds to turbos (we had to do this, i'll get to why shortly). Remove the exhaust manifold assembly from block, take out whole assembly of turbos, exh. manifold, dumps from top end (if you can get to the front pipe from the underside, remove that first). Remove turbos from manifold - now will have two turbos with dumps on them. There is an impossible bolt to remove from the dumps (really close to the block) so forget about trying to loosen or tighten this with the exhaust manifold on the car. Mark which is the front and back turbo, and which exhaust manifold is front and back (yes they are different!!!). Unbolt and remove dumps. Here comes the fun... Replace the studs that are in the turbo with the supplied studs. The problem here is that a couple of the studs had to be ground back, as the wastegate pipe did not clear the studs when the new dump was on the turbo. Also, some allen bolts was sourced for where a stud could not be used due to wastegate pipe fouling the nut that would go onto the stud… Hope that is clear, as we didn’t have pics of it sorry. After this, reverse the process, assemble turbos to manifolds, manifolds to the block, and bolt on the front pipe from underneath. Replace the oil / water feeds etc. We had an issue of one of the oxy sensors (now sitting higher due to the fatter pipe) fouling a water or oil line (I forget). We needed to source a shorter oxy sensor. Replace all the intake stuff (I have a factory airbox so there is a lot of it). Feedback on the performance: I had the car for one day, then it went to the panel repairer (a family member backed into my car…). I can say that for the day I drove it, the car seemed much more responsive to come onto boost, and there is now no perceived loss in the top end. In effect, it seems to have pushed the power curve to the left, and has increased the top end very slightly. I believe it is much more pleasant to drive, and there is now less ‘lag’. The car makes the most awesome howl between 6 and 8K, I could listen to it all day. It truly sounds like a touring car, or a VTEC coming on cam – changes sound entirely, it’s addictive. After all that work, I would recommend them, but will reserve final judgement for a few weeks. I would highly recommend doing it at the same time as new turbos, unless your mate will do it gratis – I will give him some bucks because it wasn’t an awfully fun job. If I have missed anything, just drop a post here

Smell some Motul 300V - mmmm

Love it - I'll swap you for my GTR

Can the spacers, ferni, just sell the GTR rims to me and get a set of Nismo LM2s... you know you want them My 32 GTR is daily driven and (given that I've been keeping a log of L/100km) averages 17.5L/100km over 3 months. The only mod is a full turbo back exhaust. I am not soft on the right pedal either

I have a quick related question - I have access to a set of GT3 front callipers, I assume they will not go on a 32GTR with factory 16s? I want to be able to run comp Rs for the track on the stock rims

Sorry about the slow reply, Ferni, I'm in QLD - Noosa My 32R is at the panel shop being straightened out - my mother backed into it - should be back end of the week. Will get a quote from Tint-a-car Doncaster early next week OK? Cheers

Ferni - I asked again about 2 months ago about a group tint at camberwell. They told me it had changed hands also. I will be taking my car up to the Doncaster tint-a-car, my mechanic knows the owner. My mechanic reckons on around $190 at mates rates - plus around 50 bucks to remove my existing tint. I have not seen his work, but if it is ok, then I might have a chat to him about an SAU tint day Inasnt negative as always...

SAU Nickname: Ronin 09 Car Make and Model: GTR32 Circuit Name: Sandown Lap time: 1:33 Modifications Engine: Turbo back exhaust, rich-as spec factory computer (smoke anyone?) Power: 200?? awkw Suspension: Kei Office drift spec Mr Bouncy Tyres: Cheaters, RE55s SR compound Brakes: std, RB74 pads Body weight: fat bastard --------------------------------------------------- Car Make and Model: R33GTSt Circuit Name: Sandown Lap time: 1:38 Modifications Engine: FMIC, turbo back exhaust, pod, Greddy intake, Profec B 14psi Power: 201 rwkw Suspension: Stock Tyres: Pilot sports 235/45/18 & 265/40/18 Brakes: std, endless Y-sport? Body weight: Full body

Hey SK, does this mean I should hold off buying some 32GTR coilovers?

I don't see how this would be a problem in terms of boost leak (unless they have the little bleed hole like a GTS-t BOV). It should only really affect stall and mixtures.

details of the Nismo rear wing? How is it different to the std GTR rear wing? and is that $400 for both?

geebuz! where does the steering shaft go!?!

Remind me... where is racepace again? I know, stupid stupid stupid

this might sound stupid - i've never brought a car in - but, why can't the importer put the car in a container, and send the keys to you? Then when the car arrives, you go down to the docks (assuming you have customs clearance, or with customs), open the container, and give them the keys... sorted

Sold!

I had a friend snap a timing belt, lucky it was only the belt and no bent valves (just pulled out his driveway). ...otherwise, cam belt goes pop, valves bend, engine dies, wallet goes light

Hey JAGR33, I thought the Trust mounts in the LHS (passenger) fender? Maybe just for R32. Got me worried now. They have one that they say mounts 'horizontal mount' - does anyone know what that's about or where it is exactly? Sorry to hijack, but I want to know if there is a Trust oil cooler kit that fits with the factory BOVs

I have heard that some oil coolers may require after market BOVs for GTRs (have been looking at jap oil coolers) ie. if they are mounted in RHS front area... otherwise, why change them? they work perfectly.

Go!

Hi SK, I have a follow on query with respect to ecenshu's questions about coilovers. I have an R32 GTR, and ultimately I want to build it up as a track / street car. It has a full dumps back exhaust, and will be getting an oil cooler ASAP. From there I will focus on brakes / suspension, I would prefer at this stage to get the handling sorted out, rather than chase dyno numbers. I am too looking at coilovers, and would seperate bump and rebound adjustment. I will / am running R compound tyres, such as Azenis or D01Js and will likely incorporate the Whiteline handling kit with the coilovers. Stiffness is not (too) much of a concern for me. Looking at spring rates of around 8kg/mm and 12kg/mm rear and front respectively. Will this be overly stiff on the road? What would you recommend at around $4K? Thanks in advance

sent you a text Sky_nismo => must have been to the wrong number. Located in Camberwell