Ronin 09

For sale, Trust Pod filter - from R33 GTSt 18cm diameter, bolts straight up to factory AFM. Will need bracket (easy, can bend one for you if in melb) from aluminium or similar. Excellent condition. Why? Sold the GTSt, no good for GTR. See pics, $100 neg. $20 bucks to Skylines Australia

sorry mate didn't make myself clear - it is most probably on the back of the plastic kick panel that goes under the steering wheel to the footwell - towards the pedals. I'm guessing (coz both my 33 and 32 were / are manual) that there is a box with a couple of wires going to it, and this may be the originator of your anger... that is definitely where the 'lights on' warning is on my 32 and I by memory, on my 33.

andrew, does it sould like when you leave your lights on? In my 32, there is a small chime thingy on the plastic cowl beneath the steering wheel... maybe check there and unplug any door bell-looking thingies... Alternatively it is on the back of the instrument console... if you want I can have a look at it

mate check it out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43070

I have recently acquired some Trust R32 GTR dump pipes (see thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43326), and I have been told that it is a real bitch to get: 1. the old dumps off the turbos, particularly the bolts close to the block 2. the new pipes on, and tight, when the turbos are on the car. The boys at Ice Performance in melb are happy to have a look to see what the best way is without removing the turbos (thanks Gerald ), but so we don't waste their time and effort, has anyone tackled a dump pipe change on an R32 GTR, and has any tips as to the best and easiest / cheapest way? /looks at Sydneykid/ Thanks in advance

Roy, if you get one from sydney, let me know, I need one too

V nice... new where's my money for a 350 with HKS's new supercharger kit...

OK, I didn't really, I had to get someone to pick them up... what do you think? They are Trust 3" primaries...

/me runs into corner and cries... shut down by Sydneykid /

keh fa lib da man wit da fool sikkk tubaros maaaayyte!! -did i do it right? just trying to fit in with midless drivel...

Why don't you get an exhaust shop to cut the end off the cat, extend the pipe, and put a new flange on it so that the exhaust tip is in the right place?

Funkey, I have a project for stickers the boys (and girls) might be interested in. On the back of my car is an OLD SCHOOL "Nissan Motorsport" sticker, that I'm told is rare as rocking horse shit. Do you think ppl might be interested in getting some? I'll go take a pic...

Ferni, roll start baby! When the car is running, the alternator gives enough power to drive the bastard around...

Moral of story - Park it on a bitch of a hill, behind other cars! Feel for you mate, hope for the safe recovery

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

so you're in melb now mate?

Hey rev210, where are these alleged diff and trans coolers? I can't find em...

I see a couple of inconsistencies in reporting... "After the alarm, every car was gone in 60 seconds" "Within 1.5 minutes, the police have a road block and no car can leave" I'm no professor, but that would mean there are no cars to be captured? :confused: TODAY TONIGHT = sensationalistic fools!

DC2s are the business. My mech (works at Honda) has one. I have driven it - it is the most fun FWD car I have driven. His has suspension mods (out handles the stock GTR), slight exhaust mods and lots of work on stock tune (ie timing). Beware, these cars are fast! I love it - wouldn't mind one as a circuit car. Now that I think of it, another mate has a track DC2 - full spoon motor - awesome. Does 1:29s (something like that) around Sandown...

Thanks Cereal. anyone want to tackle the front diff / transfer case?

I sold it to a guy who lives 2 streets from me... everytime I see it I get sad you're right - should have kept it The new 6 series is... different. Not sure about it yet, will have to wait and see

Damn Engineers.... here we go... Petrol is a flammable liquid. The chemical propertices of flammable liquids are described by cetain terms, being: *Flash point *Flammable range *Ignition temperatures Flash point is the temperature at which a particular flammable liquid gives off vapours (vaporizes) and therefore can ignite. The flash point differs for each type of flammable liquid. Petrol has a flash point of around 40 degrees; ie. petrol requires a temperature of only 40 degrees to vaporize to cause an explosion or fire. But, when will the concentration of petrol vapour in air be enough to ignite? More on that below... Flammable range refers to the percentage of a flammable liquid, in its gaseous state, to air to create an explosive mixture. This varies with different flammable liquids - petrol has a flammability range of 1.4 to 7.6 percent, so, it will ignite when there is 1.4 parts of petrol mixed with 100 parts air. Thus, 1.4 percent is known as the lower flammable limit and 7.6 percent is the upper flammable limit. A product mixed with air below the low end of its flammable range is too lean to burn. A flammable liquid which exceeds its upper flammable limit is too rich to ignite. So how hot does the 'trigger' need to be to ignite the vapour, if the concentration of vapour is within this range? The ignition temperature is the temperature required for a liquid to continue to emmit vapors which can and sustain combustion. Petrol will ignite when a heat source or electrical spark of at least 853 degrees comes in contact with it. Dammit, I know that mobiles emit radiation as heat, but I'm not putting any phone to me ear at 853 degrees! Hope that helps.

I love the sound of my factory BOVs releasing a muted woosh I also liked the sound of the SSQV on my old GTSt too, but sometimes can get a bit annoying when trying to 'stealth' about (yeah right, wiht that 108dB exhaust that was on it!)

/me awaits Sydneykid to tell me I'm wrong.../

I am a mechanical engineer. Let me firstly say that your response is a little misguided. Lets see here. Your engine has a rotational speed of 4000 times a minute, that is, if you were watching a dot on the flywheel (and you could actually see to count it - smart things, these computer whatsits), it would buzz past a stationary reference point 4000 times in 60 seconds, or, 0.015 seconds per revolution. Stay with me here, professor. Now, say you are able to keep a constant 4000 rpm, which, when your clutch is engaged, will feed 4000rpm into the gearbox. Assuming that all power is transmitted to the gearbox (no frictional losses etc), the input shaft is spinning at 4000rpm as well. Say you are in second gear. I don't know the ratio, but say for arguments sake it is 4:1, that is, for every 4 turns of the input shaft, the output shaft from second gear rotates once. Now, the output shaft is spinning at 1000 rpm. So, assuming no losses again here, this gearbox output shaft spins at 1000rpm, which then buries itself into the lump of cast iron we call a diff hanging between the back wheels. So, now assume that the diff ratio is 5:1 (geez that is short isn't it), that is, for every 5 turns of the input, the rear wheels turn once. So now in the system described, the rear wheels turn 200rpm when in second gear, and held at an engine speed of 4000 rpm. This means, for every one revolution of the wheel, the engine turns over 20 times for this gear ratio. Now lets look at your next statement. You are (partly) correct, boost enables the production of more power, but in itself does not give you more power. Boost increases volumetric airflow, and as we know, air + fuel = bang (power, and torque when the force is transferred rotationally). Now this 'power' is transmitted by the drivetrain to the rear wheels, but it is the torque, or rotational force, that will get you moving and accellerating. We have gears to multiply the torque produced from an engine (or power source, eg. man on push bike), but we will eliminate this scenario here, because we will assume that we remain in second gear, and the torque transmission will remain the same. Now that we are on the same page, be aware that, the gear ratios of the gearbox do not change (unless you have one of these trick CVT transmissions transplanted in the sky), nor does the the diff ratio - it is a fixed relationship between: 1. engine rotational speed; 2. rear rotational speed; and hence, 3. vehicle road speed. You are right, in that if we increase the boost, the engine will flow more air (holding the same RPM) and can produce more power. The will have exactly 0 effect on the road speed at the same RPM. The only effect this will have is, your car will produce more torque, which means it will get to your desired road speed quicker i.e increase acceleration. Bottom line is, if you increase the engine speed, your road speed will increase, no ifs, buts, or maybe. At the same RPM in the same gear, at 5psi or 300psi, you will be travelling at the same speed. Hope this was clear.