Ronin 09

riceline - the guy is still on holidays. JimX - i want to do this more for if i get RBT'd, or i see a police car in traffic, then i can switch it off and hopefully not draw any (more) attention.

good to hear you're back on the road

DJ984, a GTR cooler will be fine for your application - they will flow up to 300rwkW happily. Hope that simply answers your question. Money wise, you will have to make the decision whether a second hand $600 GTR cooler vs a new (say) $700 cooler (remembering that you will have to pipe both to fit the GTS-t) is worth it - would you want to spend $100 more for a new cooler? But yeah, a GTR cooler will be fine for your application.

Hey Sly, are you sure of this?!? I have only a stock turbo running 12psi, any higher than this i either get boost cut or air flow meter maxing out... at 230+ rwkW surely the AFM will be showing more than 5V

Steve! Hey! whats wrong with custom coolers?!?!! kidding My ARE cooler is one of the best constructed / fit coolers i have seen, local, jap or otherwise... dammit it cost enough!

Sorry to hijack the thread, michael, but have you looked at prices much for 34 4 doors? what sort of ball park? Cheers

oh sorry mate :confused: a friend of my mechanic thinks there is an easier option - i'll post it when i get to speak to him.

Rob - 20 dollar - love you long time. Its all yours - came off the car when BMT did it.

What gives them the right to feck about with whats under the hood? If they change something that makes it defective, isn't that just dodgy as hell? I wouldn't be letting any cop mess with hoses under the bonnet... In a diplomatic way of course.

up ya go!

sorry doxx, pm coming your way re cost

I am interested in putting a switchable system in the car, whereby by switching a solenoid a valve will effectively 'turn off' the BOV. Why - as my HKS SSQV is hidden behind the bumper, if i am stopped by cops then i can switch off the BOV avoiding defect. Some basics on BOVs: BOV is triggered by a boost feed from the inlet manifold, when idling or accelerating, the pressure on both sides of the throttle are equal, therefore the BOV remains closed. When there is boost and the throttle is snapped shut, there is vacuum in the intake manifold vs. boost on the turbo side, therefore the BOV opens. So, if I can install a vacuum hose that always sees turbo side pressure, and have the BOV feed to be switchable between the inlet manifold side and turbo side vacuum hose pressures, then when 1. it sees the intake manifold pressure it will operate 2. it sees the turbo side pressure it will remain closed at all times. My questions are: 1. is this actually possible (switchable in cabin) 2. where would i take the turbo side vacuum hose from? 3. does anyone know if i can get a switchable valve ie. a t-piece that can be electronically switched so it is possible to switch between the inlet manifold side and the turbo side pressure hoses? 4. does anyone actually understand what i am talking about?!?! Thanks, and I hope that is clear!!

Hey rob, got a 33 one - are they different?

... ^

what exactly does this AAC valve look like?

Meshmesh, don't worry, it was in the worshop - but spotting a GTR is second nature to me A mate from work has a WRX, he was looking at changing his wing to a STI wing - we were on lunch break. I wouldn't buy a WRX, unless it was a second car Nice work with your results!

I agree with JimX. Tube and fin are less prone to damage too, because the tubes can simply bend, whereas bar and plate will leak when the front 'bar' is bent. I went for a bar and plate from ARE because I don't want to change my front bar (type M) and didn't really want to cut the centre #plate bar out of it either. The solution works for me. Either way b+p or t+f is good, as long as the core and end tank construction is of good quality. I question a 550 dollar bar and plate - usually cores alone cost more than that. Here is my cooler that went in about 3 weeks ago. It is an ARE b+p, I think it is 300x520x90??!? something like that

Meshmesh, I was at Subaru on Monday - I spotted a lonely white GTR in the STI showroom - was that yours?!? and what the hell was it doing in the STI showroom and getting dynoed there? Do they actually do other cars as well, or were you calling in a favour?

Coco, it worries me: EDITED I personally would not buy from a business that does not state a principal business address or land-line phone number I'm not trying to put down mercury motorsport, these are concerns that I would list if I were considering buying from them. EDITED

Can you actually buy them from RTA or whatever in QLD (we have VicRoads, and they are sh*t)? They'd have to be reflective... I have a feeling that people just have them made up for them

If you could get a twin outlet, with a suspended centre dot... kinda like a pair of... oh nevermind

Sorry benm, I think I confused everyone a bit - I had them retrim the seats of my old car - haven't had the wheel done on my car yet... haven't even had a quote. If I was looking at a second hand good cond. wheel vs. retrimming your existing wheel, for the same money, I'd retrim my wheel b/c the leather is alot better (momo quality), you can get it done fatter / slimmer, and have it reprofiled. You can even get some rice blue / red / any colour stiching or suede if you please.

1. Don't even bother fighting the BOV. It is vent to atmosphere, so illegal. 2. I think i can count to 2, so pod and BOV = 2 intake mods. 3. 500 bucks is bullsh*t. Get the BOV off the car, fix the indicator, and take the car to an EPA testing station. Then fight the fine.

Yo dragon, go to see any auto trimmer. I've used Gary Blackman in Richmond p 9428 0525 excellent work, but probably a little expensive. See how you go

I have one mate (changed intake manifold to Greddy) top half and bottom half. PM Me.