Ronin 09

I'm not sure why you would do this. Firstly you are not running the turbos sequentially, so if you have mismatched compressor maps, you will end up with big problems and poor turbo repsonse - not good for flow. Secondly, two T28s are probably a bit big for a RB25 stock internals - they are sized to flow for 2.5L and sized to flow for 2.5L worth of exhast gas to spin the exhaust wheel. If you halve exhaust flow to both turbos, say hello to massive lag. And btw, "at least 18psi" is probably way past the efficiency of a stock T28 turbo... and on stock internals? I guess thats a good idea as a few weeks after you'll have to rebuild the bottom end with forgies - and then you can bolt on two T28 highflows and really build a monster. Why not just do it properly and save up for a high flow or better still an aftermarket jap turbo second hand? Less hassle, better gains... and if it were as easy as throwing on another T28 for $2000 (which it will definately cost more than that) why isn't everybody doing this?

Dave, i got a brand new Trust 4" cat back (and now have a full system). It was tested at 108dB... I wouldn't take too much from the Jasma approval in terms of noise levels

my question is this - who the hell invented the imperial system of weights and measures anyway??? who thought 12inches to a foot would be easier to count than something in base 10?!? And dont get me started on pounds and ounces...

just post an engine pic

Both separate EBC and integrated EBC into PFC have their own strong points and conversely weaknesses. I went for a separate EBC as i don't want to navigate the hand controller just to jump the boost up where i can just push a button on my ProfecB. However, as Mic33R stated, he'd prefer less clutter around, so it makes perfect sense to have an integrated approach and have the PFC do all the controlling. But in answer to your question, yes, you can opt for the optional boost control with the PFC, or it will run perfectly with any aftermarket EBC.

there's one in dandy, but i think this 'daalder magic resonator' is only in the box hill store - talk to matthew there.

permanently? i don't like it. That means you're effectively reducing the entire exhaust to 2". Get a 3" straight through resonator or a 'daalder magic resonator" (still 3") and get that put in the system under the car. That should bring 95dB down to 89.

My trust one is jasma stamped... 109dBs worth. Chop it's not illegal to actually remove it, but if you're car is over the 89dB then the exhaust system is illegal...

Wrong. *It is the oil solidifying in the turbo oil galleries that kills the turbo. *The turbo exhaust housing can reach temps of over 500 degrees celcius. No engine oil will remain stable if kept at this temperature *2-3 mins is plenty - at 1.5 bar oil pressure and at the flow rates that equates to through the small oil galleries, the exhaust housing has sufficient time to cool *Idle cannot make the turbo exhaust housing hotter, as the turbo is not under load. *The 'simple fact' is that if you want to minimize the chance of blowing up your turbo, don't idle down. I would personally take a couple of minutes idling down and cop the extra fuel cost a year... better than a rebuilt turbo every 6 months

:confused: dude i thought you were from japan

Nark - that is P H A T Pushead - nice pics - just need to put the boot latch cover down mate

Can we all just drop the bullsh!t about 1. badmouthing cops (they do good sometimes) - i have had my share of ill feeling from police, but build a ferking bridge! 2. saying we are unfairly targeted - don't like it, buy a commonwhore 3. saying we are targeted racially - i'm sorry this is not an excuse anymore. This underdog rubbish and general feeling of disadvantage - again build a ferking bridge! I am not white btw. 4. I have a defectable car. I like it. It is a risk i run, if i get defected i deal with it and move on. 5. Sorry mate, but if you were speeding and were caught, again, you have to grow up and be responsible about it. You were breaking the law. Unfortunately it appeared that you were 'street racing'. This is justification for your vehicle impoundment. Whatever happens with it, i hope it is not too harsh - but like i said earlier, it is all about being responsible for your actions

aww, cmon, someone must have one!

when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? give it a go...

mine is stock... exactly as came out of nissan factory

appreciate it dave

relax

thats what i have nissan = parts bin specialists! oh and i believe that it is a series 1.7663

Unsure if that includes silicon joiners, but it is complete. I would guess that if you want silicon joiners it may cost a bit more (they're about 100 bucks each!). I would again assume that your cut n shut should cost (marginally if any) less as the piping is shorter. Either way they'll have to hack a hole anyway.

sam, do you remember quoting to fit a whole lot of stuff for my car? just wondering how long it will take... I've PM'd you

JNR24, i'm getting BMT to install my FMIC and pipe it when my intake manifold comes. I've PM'd you.

bump - still looking

zforce is right with hot air taking up more space than cold air - hot air particles are agitated and thus expand. However, i believe that the reason the piping from the cooler to the throttle is larger than piping from the turbo to the cooler is for a couple of reasons: 1. the smaller the diameter of the pipe after the turbo (within reason, that is, not to try and force it through a maccas straw), the higher the pressure and the faster the fluid velocity. Fast velocity = good for flow to the cooler. While it will be hotter than in a pipe of larger diameter (remember that as air cools it reduces in vol and as air is warmed it takes up more volume), the cooler is designed to shed this extra (if any) heat. 2. After the IC, if the cooler has done its job the air will be significantly cooler than before the cooler. This air hence takes up less volume, and is slower in velocity. However due to the vacuum effect of the intake when the throttle is open (ie. how a N/A car 'sucks' its intake air charge), this reduction in velocity is minimal. 3. Now for point 2 i've said that the air takes up less volume, and the less volume it takes up, the less pressure it is at. This may have a 'pulling' effect on air travelling through the intercooler - remember that air naturally moves from high pressure to low pressure - effectively helping flow of hot air through the cooler. Hope that is clear... bye :wavey:

*how do you blow up the ECU??!?! *what is the series 2 latch doodah? *i don't have ABS, but have drivers airbag

yeah, ok 'freak' then... didn't want to make the freaks feel ostrasized