Ronin 09

Which part was complicated about 500 hp atw, inasnt? I think that means at the wheels, mate hahahaha

c'mon akeenan, we all know it was you why even have badges? i'd take them all off if i could

:wavey: i got one of those... with the 'smart' ECU

you know what i think

rob, you banana, this is his cooler... he sold it to wld747 someone hasn't read the whole thread! :Owned:

PS inark, get the steering wheel - it is something you use every time you drive it (along with the shifter), and i stand by the fact that it was the best money i spent on my last car

bigcarl, search it - it really has been discussed extensively already.

hey dan, i had a momo corse wheel on my old car - the best 300 bucks i ever spent. If you like your current wheel i would suggest that you take it to an auto trimmer (gary blackmann in richmond is very good - but not cheap) and get your wheel retrimmed. They can make it fatter/slimmer and in what ever colour leather you want

1-2 weeks for an intercooler upgrade? hmm.

nice one rezz, will love to see what the lesser known tuning shops from japan have to offer. can't wait for the website

I think they split into two pipes just after the turbo so that two pipes go out the engine bay (out both the original send and return holes of the factory cooler) and into the new cooler. From a flow viewpoint, i can't see that splitting it can be any better than one single pipe. When you split it so close to the turbo, the air effectively fills double the volume, which (when fluid expands to fill a void) will cause a pressure drop. So now we have less pressure (but more flow) along two pipes, with added turbulence at the split (remember this is why when we have a separate wastegate dump we join it back to the exhaust a fair way down from the turbine so there is no turbulence). Compare this to the pressurised flow of a single pipe - higher pressure, but no disturbed flow or turbulence until it reaches the intercooler. So when the two pipes reach the intercooler, the flow does not have to distribute itself as much inside the end tanks, and it should in theory flow much more distributed across the IC core. However, this is where fluid flow research is at its best - i am sure that HKS, TRUST et al have done hours of flow testing to ensure their endtanks distribute flow evenly across the intercooler core. Many companies both local and in japan believe that this is the key to a cooler that flows well, cools well and does not restrict flow too much - end tank design. So now the single pipe IC has reached the cooler, and if the endtank is designed correctly the air will distribute across the core (with a fair amount of turbulence. This pressure drop and turbulence will occur with both styles of cooler. So the charge of air passes through the core at a lower pressure and is collected at the other endtank, reducing the volume (to outlet pipe volume) and hence re-pressurising the air. Now what i am saying is a well designed twin entry should perform as well as a single entry cooler, but there is more scope for variation. This system would work better for a very big turbo, as it will keep pressures up and air flow speed up in the twin pipes before the cooler.

The CAS referred to above is the 'crank angle sensor' - it is the metal thingy on the front of the exhast cam wheel. Sorry i'm not sure what you are referring to with "contact no. 1"

cheers sidewaymambo - let me know if you hear of any getting about. thanks.

can i pillage it off my current throttle, or will i need to find that too?

yep, pass on a new one... seems a bit steep. 250 - 400 sounds about right. thanks sidewaymambo

don't know what they're worth... any reasonable price considered.

As per title. Cheers

As per title. I know they're rare as rocking horse crap, hence posting in 'For sale' section as well Cheers.

Freebaggin, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=24468 about half way down the page... i am interested if we can get anyone to make some up for us instead

Jay, i'm not sure if you can get mechanical oil pressure gauges? I guess you probably should be able to, but do you want 8bar or pressure going into the back of the gauge (i assume if it works the same way as a mechanical boost gauge)? My electronic oil pressure gauge is tapped to one of the bolts holding the oil filter mount on the block. The sender then basically plugs into the back of the gauge

ylwgtr2, where are they located?

they machine out the middle and put an adjustable section in - i think unique auto sports does them on an exchange basis

jayson, i wouldn't be too worried. I've changed from Motul 300V to Mobil 1, and my oil pressures (on my aftermarket gauge) have been pretty stable, if not a touch lower with the Mobil 1. But admittedly the Mobil 1 is slightly lighter. 10 degrees of oil temp is not much at all. External conditions could easily cause this. I have very little faith in factory oil pressure senders/gauges... mine has continually been up and down (i find that when i've been running for ages it tends to read alot lower), and i've had the original dash and a GTR dash in my car. I guess that it is the sender... :confused: Give it a bit more time (go buy an aftermarket pressure gauge! )

yes, i don't think this has been answered yet... but all the discussion has been very welcome and informative

inasnt, its a secret.... it will all be revealed in time