Ronin 09

most compliancers are slack. I am missing a bunch of stuff on my car - thankfully none are safety issues.

RaseR, welcome! nice ride, love the rims if you can't get a mirror you should be able to get a generic type from a local manufacturer that have them stuck to the windscreen - that way just sack the factory one and get a bodyshop or someone who knows how to stick a new mirror to the windscreen

the pulleys are the things that the drive belts hang off at the front of the engine - they drive the AC/PS/Alt. The ex cam gears are the gears at the front of each cam that the timing (cam) belt spin to actuate the cams.

my first car was a mighty carby fed corolla. It was slow, but felt fast at the time. Skyline as first car = bad idea.

yep you're right, i'm just saying that there is no such thing as free power. To make more power you have to expect more wear, period.

I don't know if you guys realise, but this "extra power" from changing oil has to come from somewhere. While viscosity will play a part in the velocity of the reciprocating parts and limit/affect power production, i would think that the primary difference is that the oils that produce more power are less wear tollerant; ie while they are still protecting your engine, they are more prone to wear. Consider that a thicker oil will provided better protection, but will rob power; by the same token a thinner oil will promote the engine to spin more easily but all thing equal it will not protect as well.

Elf is a fuel manufacturer; they should know what they're doing. If you go for any sort of synth oil, and you change the oil every 4-5000k's i don't think it is an issue. We should be worried about frequency of change, not so much the oil itself. We can argue till the cows come home about whether mobil/shell/motul/royal purple etc is best, but at the end of the day any of their synths will protect your engine regardless of how hard you drive it.

Friski, still doing this? a couple of vic boys may be interested - if not i am still down for one. let me know.

Guys FYI - Trust are out of stock of the intake manifold for the moment in case anyone is interested.

www.greenline.jp - and please stay on the topic guys!

RB oil pressure sensors/senders/gauges = dodgy. Get a good aftermarket one if you are worried. I have a Greddy oil pressure gauge - when the car has been running a while the nissan gauges cracks the poos and wont really read higher than 2 or 3. It is simply not reading accurately. I've had no problems with the Greddy unit.

Has anyone else got an order with Greenline and is waiting for their parts? I ordered a bunch of stuff a while ago and i still haven't got a confirmation of shipping yet. Now i don't want to open up a thread bad mouthing them, as i have ordered and recieved parts from them in the past. All i'm asking is if anyone else has parts on order. Additionally, i've tried to email them 3 times in the last week, and haven't received any replies. This is unusual for them, as they usually reply within a day or so. My parts have been on order for about 5 weeks now, so admittedly i'm getting a little paranoid and anxious. Has anyone else been able to contact them? Cheers, an anxious customer

Thanks Sydneykid, that is great help. I think i've hijacked the thread enough, but will keep you posted closer to the time i'm looking at turbos. Cheers again.

what city are you in sebaz?

i believe that bar and plate cool a little more efficienty, but they exhibit more pressure drop. They are heavier, and are more prone to damage. Tube and fin do not cool as well, are lighter and are perhaps more robust. There is a very good tech article at: www.are.com.au I am waiting to install a bar and plate cooler from them - the construction is excellent, and they offer 10% off to SAU.

fuel cut would happen regardless of fullness of the tank. I'm tipping plugs.

Sydneykid, thanks for the info there. I forgot to add that i'm also getting a adjustable exhaust cam sprocket, and i understand that i would idealy better to go with a a set of camshafts - probably best to do the camshafts when the head is off, while the adjustable sprocket is just there to try and bring on boost a little earlier at the moment. I understand that most people don't like thicker head gaskets, can you ballpark what it would cost to size the comb. chambers and o-ring it? While it is off i would look to clean the ports up too. I know this is probably better and should hold boost with alot more reliability. The power FC, injectors and pump will be done close to christmas, and i will probably do a Q45 AFM then too. I really want to get the PFC in soon, just so the mixtures are more optimum. The turbo will be at least 6 months away, as i'm waiting to hear from a new job. It is the plan at the moment, but as we all know, plans change pretty quickly. Ideally i'd like to go with a HKS stainless manifold to suit, with an HKS external wastegate. But as funds allow, i may have a custom exhaust manifold made up by my exhaust shop - they do very good custom work. Thanks again.

i agree with steve... mine was stock and i'm only just starting to play with it... a car is truly a dependant... the girlfriend gets upset!

hi sydneykid, currently on the car is: *3.5" turbo back *pod in inclosure coming is: *FMIC *ProfecB spec II *Greddy intake next plan: stage 1: *Power FC *Fuel pump *Injectors Stage 2: *HKS GT3040 *HKS 1.2mm head gasket (and any other bits and pieces to support this, obviously) So i would suppose i'm looking at around 280rwkW (conservative with around 1.2bar)

sydneykid, your info is always extremely useful - particularly as i have only theory to back my suggestions, and you have actual bench experience. I already have a greddy plenum on order, so it is going on my car. To begin with i will probably run a adapter to use the factory throttle body, and run 65mm piping to the throttle from the FMIC outlet (it has a 65mm outlet). I know that there will be flow turbulence behind the throttle when it is cracked open (due to the expansion to 80-90mm) but if anything this should in theory spread/disrupt the airflow a bit and instead of flowing straight to back cylinders (ie. no 5 and 6) there should be better distribution around the front of the plenum. What do you think?

Having said that, sydneykid, have you ever experienced cylinders 3 and 4 running lean using the stock intake manifold? It would look to me that they too will be getting uneven airflow; unless there is internal baffling to redirect air. If anything the uneveness with airflow would be worse with the stock manifold - fluid flow theory tells us that air is much more likely to continue flowing in the direction is is currenly moving, and in a stock manifold situation it would be straight into 3 and 4. I remember someone posting that they experienced 3 and 4 being a little burnt compared to the other cylinders when they pulled their motor down, whether this was to do with running lean or otherwise they weren't sure. Some sort of evidence either way would be good. As for the cut and shut of the original plenum, i don't think that this is as good a solution as a proper front facing like a greddy. Reason being is that the internals of the stock manifold should be optimized for the flow coming in from the side, thus by moving to the front it may ruin the flow characteristics. My suggestion thus would be to either change back to a stock plenum, or change to a trust/greddy one. Hope that made some sort of sense.

right, clearly there are more mad people on here like me too. sorted.

I've noticed that my dash clock runs fast by about a minute a month... it is just really annoying. Seeing that the timing is regulated by quartz, i can't understand why this might happen... Has anyone noticed this? I discovered it as about 3 months ago i installed a new head unit, and set both the dash and head unit clock to my watch. The h/unit and watch still read the same, but the dash clock is fast. What is the deal? am i just going mad??? :confused:

hahahahahaha sweet rob! i am 99% sure stealth wings are not legal as they remove the 3rd high mount brake light. As long as there exists a 3rd brake light and the wing doesn't protrude above or outside the width of the bodywork, then it should be ok.

ME ME ME :wavey:... waiting for lots of stuff