Ronin 09

I have the bolt in silencer, but it lives in the cavity next to the jack. The thing with having the silencer in all the time is you're less likely to attract attention whilst just cruising along; and thus less likely to get sent a notice. Akeenan, i am SO not welding nothin in my exhaust!!! I have however heard a good trick if you want to quieten up an exhaust for either EPA test or EPA @ Macloud - Get a piece of 3mm aluminium (offcuts from Capral are perfect, all of about 2 bucks), cut it to the exact size of the flange that joins the cat to the rear section of your exhaust. Drill the holes accordingly, and drill about 3 - 4 1cm diameter holes in the plate, then simply bolt in between the cat and the cat back section. When done, remove. Simple. No welding or cutting, no need to buy an additional muffler... But alas, V-bands mean i can't do this Oh yeah, i have a complete STOCK exhaust if anyone ever needs it - i am so not putting it on for the noise test though, we'll have to "sort something else out"

Tomorrow, dudes, gotta run to work

again it comes back to Vbands - my exhaust system is all attached by V-bands rather than 3-bolt flanges (will try and post a pic tomorrow). I haven't found anyone who can make up these weird attachment things (especially in a 3.7" diameter) and i don't really want to cut up a 1500 dollar Trust exhaust!

i might just get a second (noise legal) end muffler made up; that way i can change it on and off as i please... but yeah, even if you have that little bit of paper saying that it is ok, you can get done again

Yeah, its good to be mates with the exhaust shop guy akeenan will tell you it was only a matter of time...

make sure you word up the boys at Ice while you're down there

Quote: Hmm...interesting figures there. It's kinda weird cos one time I saw a figure of an R34GTR that was dynoed as RWD and AWD and the readouts were the same!??? This should be true, as i understand. GTRs are basically RWD until they detect rear slip (on a dyno there shouldn't be any), at which point a power is apportioned to the front wheels. So the difference should be negligible between RWD and AWD for a GTR.

They must expect us to just get around it. So it is more or less a waste of time for the exhaust shops and the car owner. Bloody EPA are just an inconvenience. /begin rant/ so instead of catching the 40yr old falcodores and geninis that belch out massive quantities of crap, generally smoke and fart all over the place, the EPA and rozzers target the community who take pride in their cars. I treat my car as a hobby, it is immaculately looked after, doesn't miss a service, is always in tune to make sure it runs perfectly. Similarly, council revenue raisers (parking tossifers) should instead of ticketing you and I when we're 2 minutes late for an expired meter be ticketing people who park across from single white lines, within 10m of an intersection, and generally park in dangerous places. This is where their power should be - improving safety for other road users. I feel a letter to the editor of 'Motor' mag coming on... /rant over/

In a recent motor mag: Dyno Dynamics Dyno: *Ford Falcon XR8 5.4 V8: 260kW @ fly, 193rwkW, 24.6% power loss *Holden Monaro CV8 5.7 Gen 3 V8: 235kW @ fly, 189rwkW, 19.6% power loss *HSV GTS Coupe, Gen 3 V8: 300kW @ fly, 222rwkW, 26% power loss *HSV Clubsport Gen 3 V8: 260kW @ fly, 196rwkW, 24.6% power loss *FPV Falcon GT 5.4 V8: 290kW @ fly, 225rwkW, 22.4% power loss *Ford Falcon XR6 4.0 inline six turbo: 240kW @ fly, 185rwkW, 25% power loss. Consider a RWD car loss between 20 - 25%.

Bastards. What a waste of time. Ha, and look at the location - getting us when we're at Ice Performance... be careful when you're round there, looks like they know about cars at Ice!

Search 'hicas' mate, search is your friend.

Just what we need... another engineer I will pass on the calcs - actually when i get time tomorrow i will do it.

i think i offer a collective "we hate you" from everyone here in Aus who can't get a modded GTSt for 4800. Good luck with getting your car running properly!

Thank you.

Let me qualify my response - i was talking about no water cooling, liquid nitrogen, dry ice etc etc. The velocity that the air passes through an air to air intercooler means that there is no way that the intercooler can heat xfer fast enough to get down to ambient. PS yes i like to break stuff

JT, this is the second time i've found ya asking stuff that you should search for! learn to use search dude!! it is your friend

No chance. Thermodynamics tells us that it is possible, buy in real life no - it is like having your cake and eating it too. PS yes i am an engineer.

Oil Filter is Z145A. Get it from repco.

remember, cheap inevitably = nasty... you do get what you pay for. Cheap can be crap surface finish, crap mounting, no crashbar allowances, poor fit, problems in fitting. Spend the extra bucks and get a quality kit.

I'd have a BA XR6T... give it the standard mods of filter, boost, FMIC, exhaust and computer and you've got to be close to 300kw at the fats... oh, but you're gearbox will try and eject itself all over the road I actually love V8s, but the GenIII just sounds wrong... weird firing order And until i can spend 50K on a new car or (more likely) 33GTR, i'll be happy with my 20K GTSt thanks very much - lets face it for 20K you can get a spanking fast skyline or a not so fast commodore. I actually don't much like the look of my car; how many of us own skylines primarly because for the money, no other car can touch its performance?

Sly33, i assume this could be what is happening with my car? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=19041 but boost wouldn't creep up like 0.2 bar?!?!

hmmm, 8mm gap eh? i assume you mean 0.8mm sorry couldn't resist, no offense intended

Hippy, i think pillowball mounts on coilovers allow for camber and castor changes, so should be sweet

Sounds like your offsets are a little too deep; ie they place the wheels about 5mm too far inboard (assuming they are aftermarket jobbies). Also, when you lower, you tend to pick up extra negative camber - when looking at the wheel front on the tops of the wheel tip in towards the body. A good camber correction kit or adjustment should fix this. Just a note also when you lower a car - the stock shockers are put under a fair bit more strain as they are not 'matched' to the spring rates - if you can afford it would be wise to change the shocks too to a stiffer rating - when you say it dumps down when changing it seems like you don't have enough damping. Hope that helps

Cheers, thanks for the help!