Ronin 09

hey guys will the solenoids fit under the fuse cover?? That may be a good place if you can wedge them under there

I'm sorry guys, but i did a search and came up with not much. Can someone explain all the numbers which describe a turbo; ie. compressor / exhaust wheel size etc etc and all those other numbers i keep reading about? I just have no idea what they all mean... I just want to know what to look for when changing my turbo, and how to assess what combinations will show boost where etc etc. Thanks in advance.

PM replied

3 pieces: front pipe, cat, cat back. It will fit in your car if you put the passenger seat all the way back. They're all in plastic bags, so it is clean too

Inasnt, i am in camberwell. Can use mine if you want, also have an airbox if you want it.

Drove around the open half of the GP track tonight, it was pretty sweet, as it is more or less all set up now. If you get a chance to go out there tomorrow or tomorrow night i think it should be still open for a couple of days... pity it was wet tonight, didn't really open it up much...

Lethal, i just got a trust system from Evo R, it is the 4" version though... without the silencer in its very loud. If you want to hear it let me know. FYI, my car is a late '95 R33, stock except for the Trust airnx filter and Trust dump / system and it made 174rwkW at the last dyno day. If you check the exhaust out it is VERY straight, i'm guessing thats why it made such a good result... unless the ECU has been played with. Also ask Ice Performance, they may be able to get Trust stuff a bit cheaper.

The trust front pipe should fit, as it is a straight replacement from dump to cat. As long as your N1 is cat back, the trust one will fit no problems. There is a guy selling a trust front pipe asking 200: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=11146 otherwise i think Pacemaker now makes mild steel ceramic coated front pipes for about 200 bucks fitted.

If i'm not working, i'll be there for a Sky cruise... and to see Jet and Nismoid punch it out...

Inasnt, i've got a stock 33 airbox if you need it... i'm in the inner east if that helps . Let me know. -mine's the stock looking silver 33 at the dyno day... with the loud pipe Also, this is off the topic, but saw this thing on 'today tonight' about dodgy roadworthy certs... it may be a long shot, but do you think it is worth getting a few ppl together and approaching 'today tonight' about the EPA and cops hassling 'young drivers who care about their car' rather than old man joe's completely unroadworthy heap of crap? If we word it right talking about 'waste of taxpayer's money', 'victimising ppl passionate about their cars' etc etc they may do a feature... they love that sort of sensationalism stuff

Try, any news?

Sideways, in your last post you mentioned that you have pod filters on your car... i think you will have real problems getting these passed as they are a grey area within the law... i.e no one is sure whether oiled / not oiled is legal. But then, with the EPA i've heard (unsubstantiated) that you are allowed one modification to the intake... I'd suggest finding a stocker air box for the test, unless your pods are partitioned and not visible.

Check your PM

You suck. When my GTS-t grows up it wants to be like daves' rb26 GTS-t Sweet sweet ride... saw you at the dyno day today... mine's the stock silver 33 with the loud arse exhaust rego LAU 079 -marcus

I got 174.6 kW running stock except for: 1. 3" Trust front pipe with 4" Trust cat back exhaust 2. Trust Airnx filter I am pretty chuffed with this figure, but i haven't made up my cold air partition yet, and i've got a JMS 3" dump pipe that couldn't be fitted before the dyno day... Look out when they're on and one of Sam's bleed valves is on... I WANT 200 kW!! I seem to be running a bit (oops i meant) RICH too (11.5:1), see the dyno below. -marcus

Tops to you, Sam, thanks again for the day. It was great to see so many other Skys around and pulling some big numbers... Will have to get that bleed valve from you; will get back to you. -marcus

in japan they use some really crap quality tint; when i bought my car it had already been tinted (back windows and rear windscreen). You could only tell this from the fuzzyness when looking throught the windows, as there was no pigment left; basically bleached completely clear! It didn't even look tinted! When we pulled it off to retint it we discovered that the original tint colour was effectively limo-tint (5%) as it had not faded arount the edges... my guess is that you're windows probably have some of this crap film on it.

Doc, check your PM

Skylark, look half a page down the maintenence page and check out this thread; CMS Drifter should be able to help. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=10467

Yep yep, gave it a polish and its never looked better... i guess now that i know it WILL come off it probably won't get cleaned for a few months... until it is fully unbearable

b005t, mine does the exact same thing... only on the LHS... when it comes to driving at night, the process is turn on the lights, tap the LHS of the climate control 3 times, and hey presto the dash lights come on... i think it is a dry solder or something, but the climate control looks like a bitch to get into so i'm going to leave it

search the forums for 'headlight clean' or something... there was a thread floating around about using either 1. silvo (as it is a mild abrasive) then turtle wax.... or 2. BMW rear plastic window cleaner for convertibles... Give the search a shot, it wouldn't have been more than a month ago i was reading it.

yep, i believe that this 'backfiring' as described is actually 'over-run'. I think it has something to do with the fluid (exhaust) flow through a pipe and the effect of massive changes in flow velocity as you change gears (i.e very fast gas flow to much slower)... sort of a reverberation within the pipe. This happens more with aftermarket exhausts due to the increased diameter resulting in a greater flow speed differential. Of course if your mixtures are rich then this will also cause exhaust noise as the unburnt fuel is ignited outside the combustion chamber. This is only a guess, but i think it is reasonable given the aerodynamics i studied through my (unused) mechanical engineering degree... feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.

Yep, using optimax. Might give Synergy a go cheers, elk.

Does anyone else have issues with their exhaust discolouring their rear bar? My car is silver and it gets a browny layer just above the exhaust outlet. The rear muffler is one of those jap ones that pokes out and up at a strange angle... Any ideas as to how to clean this off?