Ronin 09

sorry bud, don't really want to separate. cheers

+1 swedish chick. got any fun stuff for me?

i didn't do it but the suspension shop did it. it's a diff out proposition.... there's a section in the manual that describes how to do it

still here!

hmmm don't think it has an english diagram, but i have downloded a guide in english... post is included in the price. it's still here - anyone just let me know! cheers Tomei_Hicas.pdf

pump is shagged... mine blew up and was constantly on.

you have to get rid of that resonnator and stick in another muffler like the one i pictured... just take it to an exhaust shop and they'll do it for you for a few hundred bucks - try Daalder in Box Hill or Dandenong.

lol you said nipple.

SELL SELL SELL!!!

oh shit #2 (you're going to hate me): you need to swap the L&R calipers because the bleeders are at the bottom of the caliper in your setup, rather than the top... which will make it hard to bleed the calipers that is possible only if the pistons sizes are the same (which is unlikely), seeing that leading caliper is usually smaller what you'll need to do is swap the bridge from top of the caliper to bottom, and move the bledding nipples to the top

google images knows all think they're backward, simon

solution - talk to someone who knows. i am an idiot where's roy when you need him

i was just thinking that if the driling is along same curve as the vanes, then the drilling holes should arc backward towards the back of the car rather than forward like in your pics... sorry to worry you but I reckon it's backwards... more than happy to be proved wrong though in the pic i added, forget about the slotting, they go backward to the curved vanes. the second pic you've posted showing the rotor between the caliper convinces me further that they're backward - remember that the hot air is forced out through the rotor from centre to outside edge, and is assited by centrifugal force out. the way yours is located is trying to force air in at the outer edge, and toward the centre of the rotor. does that make any sense?

sorry to ask a stupid question.. but are the rotors back to front? don't you want the curves of the vanes facing backward, rotationally, rather than forward?

yeah so want some pics... show and shine????

i like. excellent to try smething differnt. questions 1. $ front, rear, and custom brackets (PM me if you want) 2. bolt pattern the same? 3. rotor thickness front and rear 4. master cylinder changes? 5. what's with the valves on the black wheels being truck valves that face inward? lol

yeah maybe i didn't explain myself correctly. when broken they stay open, so i was saying it's not an issue if it breaks, unlike water thermo which can cause overheating

i painted my 32GTR covers in JW0 so now it's a NUR

Seriously - nice work. If you go to Google, and search images for "Special Projects" that monkey comes up pretty much straight away. nice. lol

farking.

Shaun, yes, I run a remote filter, it's on the cross member (but sits a little low in my opinion). it just bolts on to where the filter attaches - the water block still remains (as far as I know).. i'll have a better look tomorrow. if you can, def get the remote filter - unless you have monkey hands (which i don't)! agreed - thermo is one more thing that can go wrong, but i would guess that, like a water thermo, if it goes wrong it will stay open rather than closed?

sorry mate, i am bullsh!t useless. I've been in Perth and Brisbane this week, don't know whether i'm coming or going. hopefully you find some before I get around to this!

yeah it does - you mean a cooler circuit between the filter and block that feeds coolant around it?

harharharharhar

I've run a SERCK core with earls fittings for years, and haven't run a thermostat. car is 340+rwkw GTR32 and doesn't have any issues whatsoever getting oil to temp within 10 mins - even in winter in Melb. still question if a gtr really needs a thermostat, when mine would stay open most of the time anyway...