SLVRBAKSLPZ

Just an update: So Im still waiting on the radiator since talking to the Owner of Hypertune on 11 Apr. But it looks to be shipping today or tomorrow (fingers crossed) Besides waiting (9 months) on this thing it, took me until may to find out the fan I chose would possible not fit. I was gonna go with a brushless but with the recessed mounting it wouldn't work (initially I sent them dimensions/schematic to verify fitment. I was assured it'll get handled). So once the radiator was done and pressure tested I had to wait on a new fan. I go the news of the fact that it was all done and pending the fan on 12 May. I imagined that it wouldnt take more than a week for them to get a fan from a distributor and shipped out. I ended up messaging the fab guy i've been in contact with today and he let me know that they are now packing it up for shipment. That tells me that the fan was sitting and my order was forgotten about again. hopefully within the next couple of days I will be finished with this transaction.

I've read that restricting the water passages and helps the pressure to prevent steam pockets. I've also read that higher flow helps pull heat from the metal. The higher flow helps the heat dissipates from the coolant in the radiator faster. What you were stating about slowing that coolant down to stay in the radiator seems to have changed. I think it's due to newer R/D, tech and CAD Sims etc. They see that is more beneficial to speed the fluid up in the system. Idk what's right but it's all something to think about and find that good median. I'm sure the results vary on motor design.

To me if it's an improvement then it doesn't hurt to to have.

Here you go. The impeller takes up the whole anti-cavitation plate. Should work well

Pump just arrived. JPC just changes out the impeller. The core is a GMB pump

Lol wow. i need more of this story

Yeah, Im not messing with them after this experience. I had to contact one of the fab guys on IG before pete sent me an "sorry we've been busy" email. The fab guy has been my POC for the last couple months. Now pending shipment. 274°-270°/280° | 10.55mm-10.50mm/10.50mm Valve Lift - 274°/270° split lobe intake, 280° exhaust. The head gets delivered today actually. I will see if it comes with e blueprint/flow sheet.

Yes in theory the larger impeller should flow more. from reading around, the vortex style impeller should be better than the open style I have been dealing with them since last Sept for a radiator/fan combo. Stilll waiting... Head: CNC ported Supertech Intake Valves, +1mm Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves, +1mm Supertech Bronze Valve Guides Supertech Dual Spring Kit, 92/82lbs Supertech Titanium Retainers Supertech Valve Seals Kelford 182-SE I chose the keep the quench pad as I havent read anything solid around to remove them for a street car. removing the quench adds about 70cc

I paid $327USD I dont know the flow rate. I can imagine its high considering the length of the blades. Id have to measure the impeller and math it out I saw your thread about the cooling issues with your intercooler and hypertune lol.

Overall its different. I figured I'd give it a try. If it's sucks then, i can at least say is not worth it and suggest an N1 or Reimax. I forgot to ask about if it's rebuildable. I can only assume it is. The price is a little higher but with the impeller material and machining I can see why.

I ended up buying the JCP water pump. Good ole AU Post snail mail, so who knows when I'll get it.

I got my head worked on by Mazworx out in Florida. I went with their stage 2.5 package. Cams are Kelford 182-SE.

It will be a ways away. I'm painting my car on top of waiting for parts all the time. I will definitely update when on the turbo when I get it running

I'll be install on a RB30 block. Are you descriping the slotted hole?

Hello, I was looking into getting a JPC RB30 water pump. It has a large brass impeller. Shouldn't corroded away and should pump more water. Has anyone used or heard anything about their pump? Is it just worth sticking with a N1 pump?

Any recent dyno results of a 9180 or 9280??

Thanks! The sensor is 3/8 so i may not exactly get it on the plenum but its def going up top! I just found one of those hose adapter in 3/8 on the ebay. I'll just plug the bung that they welded on the bottom and delete the OEM harness for the than AC fan sensor switch. The new fan is gonna do the job.

I thought about just doing the ECU route. With the Spal Brushless tech, the fan is basically variable speed on its own with the switch (low speed @175F /max @195F). I also thought about getting one of the radiator hose sensor provisions to mount the switch, since it seems the upper is deemed the most optimal location.

I went with PMC Motorsport block adapter and HPI for the oil filter relocation. I chose the PMC mainly due to the sensor provisions are on the front face vs on the side. The plan for now is to mount HPI on the front crossmember. Depending on the radiator size, fan, fan shrouds the location should work for most. easily accessible and zero engine bay mess. It has the 3/4-16 thread to support standard JDM filters. Cooler wise, I just went with the Nismo one only due to ordering the Nismo bumper to suit.

All, Currently getting a radiator w/ shroud and 16" brushless fan fab'd up. I will be using the sensor to switch on the fan. I will be using a stock thermostat(76.9c) with a 175-195f sensor switch. I planned on getting the sensor thread bung welded to the lower half of the radiator near the outlet hose (mimicking the AC fan stock sensor switch location) However, I've read much on that the switch needs to be mounted near the hottest point which would be near the upper hose. Some of what I've read also states that it needs to be close to the thermostat. Most of that info is non-RB specific as some motors thermostat is located on the upper hose pipe. Should the switch be close to the coolant temp sensor for thermostat?? Whats optimal when it comes to a RB?

Thanks, yes that correct. I'm gonna email them Monday and see if they have a record saved from any previously built shaft for a R33 GT-R. Driveshaft Shop has one advertised, but stories of their CS and warranty issues deters me from them.

All, I'm planning on getting a tailshaft/driveshaft from, Precision Shaft Technologies (PST). I'm in the middle of a build, so I don't have the transmission in to get the proper length measurement. PST asks for the following: Transmission type Rear U-Joint Series Shaft measurement https://pstds.com/drive-shafts-101 Has anyone complete a order from them have this info available? I anyone able to get accurate measurements? Any/all help is appreciated. Thanks

Found one

Looking for a cheap used intake manifold adapter before I have to buy a new one. US buyer. Paypal as payment

Hahaha go ahead and slide that resume over to em