SLVRBAKSLPZ

..... It may be the new software update. I loaded the new update on my laptop a week or two ago. I didn't use it til today. Tryna change it offline with my old file and it's not saving settings. I'm emailing Haltech now.

I tried that too. Even loaded my old file from January. Still reverts. And I just updated the firmware today so i know it wasn't that

Mine is set to pin 18. Mine worked fine as well. Idl what to make of it. This calls for an email to Haltech

Full was 0.27 / half 1.31 / E 2.53 Just full changed. I kinda fixed it. So I have a haltech fuel sender conditioner still wired. I think it died from getting gas in it from pulling the sender, but I had it wired up still. I pulled the power wire off for it which seemed to have made the OEM sender signal stick to full. Once I put the power from the conditioner to the battery, It started reading 15gals. However the ICC software still reads 0.01 and revert while trying to change

So now I'm having the same issue as you. My sender stopped reading the other day as the full value changed. It doesn't set when pressing apply I dont know why. I just did it out the blue

I have a Plat Pro. i didnt have issues it any auto correction of the values or the resistor button being locked out

Check the previous page for the readings I had. I thought they seemed low but the other members had similar readings. I used those and everything seemed fine, then some reason they weren't. After a day the senders reading were 0 (on both the OEM and Haltech conditioner) from what I personally got from pulling the sender. I went back to the voltage numbers from the how to write-up article and the level read numbers and close to the level I had which was nearly full. From memory the article number were 0.27 full/1.31 half/2.53 empty. I was pissed cause all the work to pull that sender out and get the reading and it didn't work as planned for me. I cleaned the sender rail and everything. Idk why it reverted to the higher readings. So I'd say to u, use both sets of reading and see what works for u. To add I think the haltech sender died. Maybe got fuel in it. I will check to see if it works again after my work trip, but the oem seems to work better imo.

Thx man. I bought the Haltech one for a Z32 thinking it would fir and it doesn't. I will get the one from PRP as it states its a direct fit on the stock plenum.

All What aftermarket fast response air sensor fits the stock RB26 plenum location? I bought the Haltech one for Z32 and it doesn't fit. Is everyone just up-sizing the hole?

did you use the pull up at all? and whats your filter level?

Ok thx all. Just gave me some assurance. Those numbers were way off compared to the fuel sender how-to, which made me 2nd guess my findings.

What voltage are you guy getting on your fuel sender? When i checked mine the Ohms read proper. When i plugged up to check the voltage i was getting very super low numbers (Full 0.02 // half 0.13 // Empty 0.42.

Yes that correct. Sorry for the late reply

Only solution i have is find where the black wire ends in the cluster area and splice off it / splice and run a wire from the tank to the cluster / buy the fuel sender conditioner

Are the wire colors from the fuel tank match the wires colors of pin 7/55?

Far as the fuel reading it looks like you should be using pin 7 and 55

Yes those wire colors are specific to the R33

I will investigate soon. I also have to see if my voltage setting are correct as well once I fill up.

Rt. I will keep both hooked up and see with one reads the most accurate. As of now I feel like the oem to dash is better. My fuel level conditioner does a weird thing where it reads high then levels out after about 30secs. Im sure its something I can adjust in the ecu. The oem just reads the level instantly

I wired mine up about an hr ago and it worked.. The the red/gray wire for signal (i used pin 18 The teal wire is the ground for pin 30 Make sure to select the correct channel for the AVI you used. And use 90-0 ohm The you select the spot on your dash for the fuel level choose the AVI, not fuel level. You still are required to adjust the voltage.

Gonna need the fuel level sender conditioner. Haltech makes one On Haltech ECUs the signal wire goes into one of the AVI inputs

Yes. Run the signal wires for those to the pins outline in the IC-7 instructions. Make sure to push the pin lock open on the plug so the pins can seat all the way in.

Lol i get it man. Its like all the landscapers with $h!tțy yards. It took a bit to figure out the wiring and what all was need as the speedo converts some signals. Overall it was an easy task once it was all clear. Scan thru this post. I posted a link on a how-to for the fuel sender. Speedo wiring to the aftermarket calibrator/ charge light info is in here as well You will have to wire the hi-beams/turn signals/e-brake/parking light directly to the units connectors (IC-7). I took pics of the back of my oem cluster which is used to find which wires I needed to t-tap into. Sorry I dont remember the colors of them. The HVAC/shifter surround is from Garage Yoshida

Finally installed

Gotta drill holes then install. Remove the rubber pads off the clutch/brake pedals. Line up and use the countersunk hole off your new pedal for pilot hole references. Do the same for the gas pedal. Fairly easy I got new pedals from Performance Pedals. They have a universal installation guide which will be similar.