AntsR33GTR

Looks so good man! Awesome progress

I decided to give the car a suspension refresh. It already has BC Gold coil overs but the rest was all OEM. I ordered the full Hard Race arm kit for front and rear and a set of SuperPro front and rear sway bars. Front: Adjustable upper control arm, Castor arm, 22mm Solid Sway Bar. Rear: Adjustable lower control arm, Traction arm, Camber arm, 22mm Solid Sway Bar One of the boys stopped in to give me a hand and we knocked out everything on a Saturday pretty easily. Front Rear Car is off for an alignment later this week so will see how it drives afterwards.

Thanks man, your project is looking awesome.

I decided to make up a new washer tank to replace the plastic tank I used originally. Cracked out the tig and knocked this up Test fit Painted and fitted Also sourced a carbon cooling panel to tidy the front up a bit Painted the EFR compressor housing gloss black to change the look a bit. Changed the turbo intake to a carbon 4" tube and swapped out the red filter for black. Bay as it is now

Been a while since I have updated this thread. Car is running awesome and have not done any major mechanical stuff, just added a few visual things to the engine bay. Decided to replace the factory strut brace. I found some carbon tube at work and with the help of one of the boys we machines up some end caps to suit. Used epoxy to bond the oval carbon tube to the end caps Had the strut mounts laser cut and then welded them together, pretty basic design. Turned out OK. Also made up a brake M/C stopper for no real reason other than I had a few hours free in the shed.

Cheers!

Yes can be done that way also. From what I understand if you are using pre-turbo injection you will only use water, not a water/methanol mix. I may experiment with that setup in the future just for the hell of it.

The trigger kit was installed at the same time as the Link G4+ so i dont have any data before then. Car was running a PFC with a tune when I got it. My tuner recommended a trigger kit from the get go so I just went with his recommendation.

Yep head studs are a must, would like to do valve springs etc at the same time. Its already tuned...

Update on the build EFR installation finished off. I decided to install a WMI kit in the car for the hell of it. Not really for added performance but more to keep intake temps down etc. I went with an AEM kit and added the fail safe flow gauge which monitors flow and alerts if it detects flow outside of an expected range, either high or low. I made up a frame with some bar I had in the workshop. Then mounted it to the rear strut brace Final install came out neat enough for me. The injection nozzle was installed in the factory IC pipe I installed the flow gauge fail safe on a small carbon panel where the ash tray would sit. I wired the gauge 0-5v=V output into the link so we can see flow in the logs. Car then went back on the dyno to get the EFR tuned. Results were good, on wastegate spring (14.5 psi) the car made an extra 40KW over the old BW SXE setup. On high boost we made 403kw KW with 3 psi less boost, SXE was 380 on 22.5 psi. Response is a lot better and it drives nicer than the dyno graphs look so over all I am happy with the outcome. We didnt play around with cam gear timing in the end so that could always happen down the track. Remember this in on a completely internally stock 2.6 on 98. Here is plot of response between the SXE8376 (Yellow and Green lines) and the EFR8374 (Pink and Blue lines). Power plot 19.5 PSI - 403 KW 14.5 PSI - 346 KW cheers

I have stainless mesh in the catch can which will hopefully catch most of the oil mist before it gets to the lower air filter but I guess the point you raise is a possibility mate.

Update on where I am at with the car. I managed to get hold of a tidy second hand Greddy/Trust 100mm intercooler which was awesome as I had been wanting to upgrade the factory one. Wont be as good as the latest Plazmaman/Hypertune stuff but price was right and should be an improvement over stock. Mounted up Bit of trimming to the bumper to let it fit but came out ok. Next it was time to swap out the BW SX-E for the EFR. Out came the SX-E. Comparison of the two side by side. There is significant differences in the rear housing designs between the two turbos so the dump pipe needed quite a bit of modification to fit, they also use different style v bands. I made up new water lines and oil drain to suit the EFR. Also modified the heat shield i made to protect the body better and give me easier access to the wastegate lines. I also got distracted and decided to change the color of the cam covers. I managed to put some decent chips in the gold paint as I was doing all the fab work so decided to strip it all back and go for a new look. I picked up a set of carbon covers from Alibaba lovingly hand crafted by a 12 year old. They are not to bad quality wise but needed a bit of work to get to fit nicely. Test fitting, managed to get everything to line up fairly well. I decided to paint the valve covers a dark gloss grey to try and get them to blend with the carbon as best as possible which turned out OK. Covers installed and EFR mounted up. Heat shield has a removable panel (not installed below) to allow access to the wastegate lines. I added an inline Turbosmart oil filter for safety. All the lines have heat shielding to try and protect as best as possible. As the engine sits now, it is almost ready to start up. I need to swap out the EFR integrated blow valve for a Turbosmart blanking plate as I will keep the Nuke unit I have. I also have to tidy a few other little things and its ready to go back on the dyno to check the tune on the new EFR.

Cheers man. Yea I think the SX-E would go great on an RB30 build if you wanted something low cost that can make decent power. Will be interesting to do dome back to back data comparisons between the SX-E and the EFR...

Following up on where I am at. The boost leak turned out to be this... Yep I am special... managed to crack the runner when reinstalling the intake manifold. I am guessing it bound on one of the throttle body dowels and it snapped when i tightened it all down. It was on the underside of the manifold so could no be seen. So sourced a replacement stock mani along with some Tomei steel gaskets and put it all together again again. This time I pressure tested the complete system and had no leaks so problem solved. Fixing that issue defiantly improved the response of the BW SX-E. It is certainly not the most responsive turbo around but it is actually not too bad in the real world. Below is a graph of boost response on low boost and high boost taken from logs out of the G4+. These were done on open road full throttle pulls in 3rd gear (stopped at 7K but gives idea of real world response). As stated it is nothing amazing response wise but not the complete dog that the dyno graph combined with boost leak issue made this combo out to be. Also remember these turbos are very cheap in comparison to the big dollar BW/Garrett stuff (3rd of the price give or take). Once it spools up its a fun setup to drive and pulls hard but obviously it is a bit lacking when it comes to transient response. I definitely think you can live with this setup though if the budget cant stretch to the top end stuff. In saying that I decided I am this far down the road I might as well finish things off so picked up this guy... EFR8374D. In terms of physical size it is actually slightly smaller than the SX-E 8376 (SX-E Compressor cover is BIG) but they are very close. Plan is to get it installed over the coming weeks (Need to make up water lines and modify dump etc) and get the car back on the dyno to check things over.

Thought i would throw this up for peoples interest. I have been working on a fairly basic build of my R33GTR (in the builds section). Due to budget reasons I decided to try one of the BW SX-E S300 8376 turbos. Yes I know 8374EFRs are what everyone recommends but budget did not allow it at the time of purchase. There is very little info on the BW SX-E turbo stuff being used on RBs so thought I would share my results to date. Build: Completely stock RB26 Link G4+ (inc Fuel press, Oil press and Fuel temp sensors and controlling boost) BW SX-E S300 8376 (.91 T4 divided A/R rear) Sinco T4 Divided manifold Turbosmart 60mm WG Seimens 875cc injectors on aftermarket rail Aeromotive FP reg Walbro 460 with mandatory rewire 4" Dump off turbo then into 3.5" exhaust (no cat) R35 Coils Platinum Racing/Franlkin Engineering Trigger kit Stock intercooler Car is running 98 pump (E85 is not an option for me due to lack of availability sadly) The car has just been on the dyno and results were: 305KW ATW on 14PSI (Wastegate spring pressure) 385KW ATW on 20PSI We limited the boost to 20PSI due to the engine being completely stock. While the power is solid the turbo is pretty lazy on this setup, I was hoping it would be a little better but it was always going to be a dice roll. We discovered a fairly significant boost leak from the manifold which may have hurt response slightly. However it is looking like this setup may be a bit big for a completely stock RB26. Perhaps an RB30 or a 26 with head work/cams etc would wake it up a bit earlier. We have not played with cam gears as yet and there looks to be a smaller rear housing option (.83) I can also try otherwise I will have to switch to an EFR to get the response I am after. Results:

So go the last few small things buttoned up and got the car out o the shed for a wash after 4 months. Then off to the dyno. Some interesting results. The car made 305kw ATW on wastegate pressure (14 psi) and 385kw ATW on 20psi. While the power is solid, the response is not as great as I was hoping. It has always been hard to get any solid data on anywone using these SX-E turbos on RBs so was a bit of a punt to try one. I found a fairly significant boost leak at the inlet manifold where it looks like i have damaged a gasket which wont be helping but overall it looks like this turbo could be sized a little too big for a stock Rb26 on 98 (E85 not an option for me as too hard to get sadly). I will get the boost leak sorted and we haven't played with cam gears to see if that will wake it up a bit. I have seen some smaller housing options available in the USA which may help also but it is looking likely i will change to an EFR to gain back some response. Dyno graph for those interested.

Good push over the weekend, got most of the final bits sorted. Had to relocate Oil filter block as the new radiator is too thick and was hitting it in the origination location I chose. Managed to squeeze it in the space near the transfer case which in hind site is a better spot anyway. Purchased a new Koyorad radiator. Unfortunately the one that was supplied did not include the sensor bung for the thermo fan which is located down near the lower hose exit. There was none of the other versions available instock so tapped the thermo sensor into a radiator sensor adapter and placed it in the lower hose. Painted radiator and installed Relocated Bosch air temp sensor into the cooler pipe Completed all the wiring. This included wiring up the crank trigger sensors, oil and fuel pressure sensors and the air intake sensor. Added head shield cover to exhaust rear housing and installed boost control solenoid which will be run by the G4+. Engine bay pretty much sorted now. Plugged in the G4+ and configured crank triggers and other required settings. Engine fired up nicely once timing was all adjusted. Warmed it up and checked for leaks, small coolant and fuel leak needed to be sorted but other wise all good. Still have to tidy a few small things and install new fuel pump setup and then off to the dyno. 2018-11-24 15.44.52.mp4

My GTR

Made up some ducting for the oil cooler. It is fed through the air vent in the indicator surround.

Got some more work done. Turbo and wastegate installed for hopefully the last time (wont be). Heat wrapped dump pipe. New plugs and NZEFI R35 coil kit installed. Fast response IAT sensor fitted. I may move this to the intercooler pipe in the future.

Bit more progress... Got the Grex remote oil filter unit mounted. I didnt want it up high in the engine bay so found a spot that seems to work Ok. (Dont worry about the dented filter it was just for mock up purposes) Lines back to the block. I wrapped the lines in plastic conduit to give some extra protection against rubbing etc. Oil cooler installed. I will probably make some ducting for this. Lines back to the oil filter block finished off. Nuke B/V installed. It is a direct fit onto the OEM gtr hard piping piping making things nice and easy. Oil catch can breather finished off. I want to try and keep as much oil smell out of the cabin as possible so hopefully this will help.

Cheers bro, yea I would like to do that and some drop in cams also. Will see how the budget goes...

Hope so man, fingers crossed it is not a dog response wise.

I removed intake manifold so i could give it a tidy up and it would make life easier installing remote oil filter bracket and making fuel lines etc. Decided to go with Aeromotive fuel pressure reg, added a pressure sensor so link can monitor things. Nuke fuel filter Made up some brackets to hole the reg and filter. Fuel rail and injector installed and fuel lines made up I sandblasted the inlet manifold as the original paint was a bit flakey. Looked at the idea of leaving it raw finish. But in the end opted to repaint it satin black. Made up a SS oil catch tank using -10AN fittings. Has some baffling and SS wool internally to try and catch as much oil and moisture mist as possible. It will be vented under the front drivers side guard. Found a cheap window washer tank that was the perfect size so made up a small bracket to attach it. Disclaimer: I am a shit welder so no need to remind me. Test fit washer bottle. Test fit in the car. Grabbed a bunch more -10 AN fittings and hose. Painted tank satin black. I removed the OEM push fit breather connectors going into the cam covers and installed a set of Franklin Engineering AN fitting adapters. These come with a tool to allow you to hammer them in nice and straight with out damaging the black finish which is cool. Made up the breather hoses and reinstalled everything. Used some AN divider clamps to try and keep the lines tidy. I still have to make up the vent line that goes to the external filter.

After sourcing most of the bits I needed it was time to start pulling the thing apart. Platinum Crank Trigger kit fitted up. This requires a small notch to be made in the oil pump housing so the senor fits correctly. Test fit clearance of crank gear to sensor Sourced a set Tomei adjustable gears They went on with new cam belt and w/pump etc. Franklin Engineering CAS Trigger kit installed Pulled out the old twin setup. Sinco exhaust manifold installed, replaced all the exhaust studs with new nissan OEM at the same time. Turbo test fit to get clocking roughly in the right spot. One downside to the BW SX-E stuff is they are big, the front housings are massive in comparison to the EFR range. Intercooler and air filter piping mocked up. Then me and my good buddy X Ray knocked up dump and wastegate pipe. Dump is 4" merging back to 3.5" Wastgate is 2.5". We sure as hell are not winning any welding awards but it should hold together. We tried to keep everything tucked as high as possible for clearance. X Ray had a random old power steering tank off some nissan which I modded to fit around turbo stuff. Ended up fitting in pretty neatly. Exhaust and wastegate fitted up. Oil feed and drain completed. Made up a SS heat shield to try and keep heat away from wiring etc. Dump pipe will be heat wrapped also.