toranarod

I am doing a conversion on my GTT, Has anybody got a link to all the photos that are on this post. The phot guide would be so helpful

This R34 will live on. With all the body work repairs behind me I am now enjoying the car a lot going on nice Sunday drives and looking forward to the fun stuff like turbo up grads and things like that. I inspect the body regularly for any sign of corrosion and even thou I cannot see it its always lurking somewhere.

Throw up some pics.

The metal in the strut tower areas is thick enough if you get to it before it gets to bad or as bad as my car you don’t need replacement panels just a good clean with a sand blaster and some chemical treatments and you saved your car form some major damage. Another spot to check and to treat even if it’s ok is the gutter channels. All cars eventually suffer in this area because its almost impossible clean all the decaying and debris from theses location.

Thanks guys for the help. all taken on board.

All the R34 and R33 have some rust in the towers. even the donor panels that where supplied by JDM wreckers had some kind of rust that need to be sand blasted and treated before welding in. the pics below are the donor parts I managed score r34 for the right side and R33 for the left side. the last photo are both left and right after chemically treating them to a zinc bath. They where also sprayed with a copper primer before welding in. In my opinion even if you are siting back reading this article and thinking your skyline is rust free it is not. All r34 are a ticking rust bomb the sooner you pull up the Sturt tower cover plates clean and treat them weld them back down the better.

this is what I found under my car and I fixed it. I spent 3 months with a welder and replacement panels. If you have never done this before you need help. there is more going on here. Please contact me if you need advise, its a complex job but it can be done and you can be very happy with the results I did this during covid lock down, it keep me busy and at home. My car had the same rust in all the same places as yours especially in the boot and wheel arches.

R34 GTT Tail Shaft yoke for a manual gear box. Can you buy the yoke as a spare part for turbo GTT r34? Is the Auto yoke the same I suspect not? Like most of us with an Auto R34 a manual conversion is on the to-do list. It seems like the gear box is buyable but all the other parts are harder to come buy especially the tail shaft. Oh and the gear stick.

Thanks it also made me think about some seat rails for my after market seats I have just purchased. A drivers side rail I was tolled it was compatible. Oh dear🤔

I have come across some really good carpet for my R34 but its from an R33. Is the floor pan of an r33 similar to an R34 I can not see why not. well enough to fit a carpet

here are are a few more photos of the finished front. Basically I am giving the car a quick Restoration. Its been mostly about the rust but every thing is getting replaced or rebuilt.

pull the valve cover off and look at the cam lobs could be a scuffed can lobe. look at the buckets do not pull the motor out or down. could also be a collapsed vale spring I bet it can be fix with a top end inspection.

Painted the engine bay with the motor in. No over spray on the engine so fiddly took hours and hours.

engine bay RED. Seam sealer next then back together

under body silver I am going with for a cleaner look. 2 Pack bare metal etch Primer going on the repair area both towers

Finally today i have completed the metal work. I start paint preparation next I have had enough Welding for now.

Yes I was a fan of the 260z 2+2 loved them. Did you ever see what happen to the Nissan Bluebirds?

at last putting back together

Rust protection then after welding cavity inhibitor. If the weather is good tomorrow start putting the tops back on

The whole point of this work is RUST so I have been treating all metal surfaces with a zinc phosphate pre-primer metal etcher called RustBlast before paint priming with a welding copper primer. What do you gurus out there think about this as a procedure before i commit to the return of the panels? I don't know what treatment to trust my car to.

Way back before I removed the first spot weld I spent a kings ransom on buying paints and chemicals for the job not being really sure what i would find and how deep i would need to dig. This is available on eBay. I am in Vic and we have only been able to buy on line as all or retail is locked down Sika Sikaflex 527 AT White Specialist Hybrid Car Body Sealant 300ml. Automotive. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sika-Sikaflex-527-AT-White-Specialist-Hybrid-Car-Body-Sealant-300ml-Automotive/173381054429?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 work as of yeasterday

This is the same noise. I found the problem I am not sure how to explain it. check the direction of the wast gate actuator control valve. This is going to sound very stage. But what the noise was on my GTT was the wast gate actuator was opening the wastage only a little bit creating a condition where hot air was flowing past the gate like air over a whistle like a a church organ works or a steam train blowing it whistle. I kid you not. It was so loud it was defining I even went out a purchased a new turbo That I never fitted . just because I had a small valve the wrong way around.

I had the same problem. it came about after i reassembled the turbo

This is where its up to at the moment. still lots of cleaning to do.