Frozengrip

What are u implying there bud ?

Set everything to time on the cams and crank. And get everything bolted down , now time to put on belt and torque the cam bolts after. Thank you everyone for the much appreciated help! I think this time around I got things right lol

Ohhhh they put assembly lube on them ! Yeah kinda looks like shit from that close up but I can assure all Rust is of and they lubed all lobes! thanks for the heads up tho gtst ! You’ve been of upmost help

Thank you for being so informative gtst, this is awesome ! So seems like I’m on the right path and all is good! @ben that’s how I got them back from the shop , but I didn’t torque head down yet. Just mocking everything up and make sure it’s all ok. now just gotta wait for my days off to get it all assembled and done!

Ah got it , so it’s correct as it is yes ? i know when I set the timing ... the right time this time that things should align probably

Ok guys so , cams are set at tdc : #1 lobes pointing away from lifters, and winded Pistons clockwise from my 10mm to tdc with head put on. Now question I have is #6 valves are open and # 6 piston is at tdc? This right ?

Well guys yes they are f**ked ! Lol but good thing just got em back from machine shop and all good ! now just gotta set everything to tdc, mount it, torque and we're good!(:

Hey guys! Any thoughts ?

Hey guys !!! Sorry been super busy with work and some rather odd shitty weather that managed to take a touch of something’s. Unfortunately a storm hit and flipped my Canopy over and managed to get my head wet but my block is fine ! Surface rust embedded on the cams and surrounding areas 😞 but just got back to work on this beast , and set the pistons 10mm before tdc and set the the first pair the lobes up? Look good ? Thanks guys for all the help really do appreciate it ! one last to mention I did like a newbie torque both cam gears before adjusting back when I first made this post.. should I untorque and then set lobes up ?

Wow gts can’t thank you enough for this drop of knowledge! Honestly was in a rut and was wondering if shot myself in the foot but happy to have people like yourself help out! with that said , would it be the safest option to set #1 lobes away from lifters and set piston 10mm down? Or is that too much? And when I’m pointing the lobes up do I have to unbolt the clamps holding the cams down ? Thank you ! And it’s my first engine build so getting familiar with everything but enjoying the process nonthless! Making the best engine shine in the us ! and oh! Took some extra pics to show that verything is fine (valves/Pistons) and I think the metal shavings were definitely from the machine shop

Thank you for this important piece of info gts! I always saw engines being assembled with #1 tdc but didn’t think to much of it till recently. But with that known I’ll be postining #1 at tdc today. As for the head , I was planning on putting in with cams since I never took them off. But yes I do have to angle to the pistons positioning now. How do I go about it or should take cams off and postions the lobes on the corresponding place? And I hope it was, just cause when I was turning the cam gears it was clunks and hard. But yes no scrapes on Pistons or valve surface. Is it possible that I could have hit a valve with a piston and forced the valve to go up a little ?? Thank you guys for all the critical help!

Well thing is it’s not only that valve that has those shavings. It isn’t all but I really think i made the valves bounce down on the pistons as I was turning the cams or I was forcing the valves down with the lobes on the cams. Ah im just worried i messed up bad. Another question, should I position #1 and #6 piston to be at tdc ? Or is it fine how it is ? Thank you this just has me wishing for the best haha

Yes, so I got the block and head back from the machine shop. I got it back with #2 piston and #5 piston at tdc. I then set the head on it , torqued it down and adjusted the camgears to the marks on the marks but did feel it force and clunk. Unfortunately that’s when it clicked to what was going on and yup. Found those shaving in the head ports. But no damage to pistons or valve surface. Just those shavings on the valve stems. Will update with some pics a little later..

Anyone ? Wanna go work on it asap, but need a honest opinion before I assemble again lol

Hello all sau community, unfortunately I’m writing this here today for a rookie mistake I have done. Or so atleast i think. I was adjusting my Cam timing , as I was turning the Cam gears I noticed a sound (that I know now is where I f’d up) and didn’t think too much since this was my first time. Anywho got both cams set on the timing marks and went to go check on the valves. I found metal shavings and this is when I realized what I had done smfh. I then proceeded to take off the head to see if any pistons or valves where damaged from underneath and nope. All pistons had no scuffs and valves where good besides the shavings on the inlet ports. I clean the shavings out but should I consider this a damaged valve or should I be good to put it all back together? thank you guys, I’m gonna get some heat but hey it’s for the best haha

Well if there is no stock limit on the rods , think I’ll be putting some arp rod bolts , forged pistons and see how they go. thank you cheers

Slave for the jdm points man lol

I don’t mind spending on some forged rods , but want to know what’s the limit on the stock rods so I could maybe excuse that expense. If they survive my power levels for a good time that’s all I care for. Think I’ll definitely be getting some forged pistons though. thank you

Hello sau folks , last post was regarding some Hks rods I was interested in purchasing for my rb25. Little did we know a worldwide pandemic was in the works ?. Regardless those are already sold and I must move on. Must’ve been fate. Anyways I wanted to know what the durability of the stock rb25 rods were and what power they start to go at. It’s not like I’m looking for huge power (350-500hp) but I am looking for great long run reliability. I know the stock pistons are the first to go before rods so I don’t mind getting some forgies. I have done some research and read rb26 rods are a great and cheap alternative for added beefiness. So might be on the look for some. So should I just pair my stock rods with forged pistons or go the rb26 rod, forged piston route ? or am I just overthinking it lol. thank you guys.

Thank you for the detailed response piggaz! Glad it’ll be able to work since it’s a great deal I found on those. Not needing a rebuild at the moment but can’t let these slip noe knowing they’ll be good for my application. and for the rb26 crank and pistons , I have given the idea a go but since I’m in the states it’s a little more difficult to source one. But ill see as time goes. Thank you!

ok ok, think I get you. So considering the rods for all those different stroke lengths are the same Length then I assume they would just work with my choice of forged rb25 pistons ?

on the rods the pin bore is 21.0 so need some pistons to align up with that specifically, yes?

Thank you for clarifying that for me BK, now I done a bit of research on the rods and seems they come from the Hks 2.8 step zero kit. So pretty stout rods. Now another question, maybe an arrogant one but would I be able to use these rods paired with other pistons other than the Hks ones ?

Thank you for clarifying this guys. Glad to know all rb25, 26 and 28 rods are the same Length. so excited to purchase these and begin this journey ?

Hello fellow rb owners, i found a good deal on some Hks rb28 rods , and I was wondering if they would fit inside a rb25? Going for a budget build and this is a good beginning on the internals if prove to fit. thank you.