MadMatt00001

Hey, sorry this is a bit late, if you are still wondering, it's a plug for the windshield de-icer, it's an optional accessory, on my r34 it's just clipped to the firewall, I'm hoping on finding a wrecked car that has it so I can use it! Hope this helps MadMatt

5. This part covers the high beams and parkers, disconnected the battery and grab a multimeter that measures continuity and go to the headlight connectors, on the big connector you need pins 2 and 6 on the small one, pin 12, pins 2 and 6 are the high beams and pin 12 is the parkers. Next, go to the side of the car, there is a loom running across the side, undo one of the plastic pipes and all the duck tape surrounding the wires, check which colour each wire connected to the pins are, before cutting, double check they are right with a sharp pin and the multimeter, use the pin to pierce a hole in the wire, if it beeps, cut it. You should have cut a total of 3 wires, now, run 3 more wires but this time just from the fuse box to the cuts you made in the loom, next, solder the cut wire (both ends or some things won't work anymore) to the wires you ran. Eg, if you cut one high beam wire it will split into two parts, solder both of these parts to one of the wires, then continue for the other two. Next, look at the r34 fuse box cover, it will tell you which two relays to snag from the sedan "headlamp" and "tail lamp" in their respective holders, push them out the back and plug them in the same spots on the coupe holders. Next, solder the tail lamp wire you ran to the tail lamp relay, and the wire you ran to the head light stalk to the other pin (check the manual) same for the high beam wires, now cut the wires coming from the 2 10A head light fuses and connect them to the high beam relay, and the wire from the 10A tail light fuse and connect it to the tail light relay. 6. The end is nigh, finally go to the auto headlight control unit connect and cut the wires going to pins 2, 6 and 7 (remember the orientation is from the back, not front) and run 3 new wires to the head light stalk and yep, you guessed it, solder them to these three wires. Now, if all done correctly, you can connect the battery and all 3 of the wires you ran from the fuse box to the head light stalk when connected to ground should either fire the low beams, high beams or parkers. You should also have a total of 6 wires going to the headlight stalk area, but it's going to increase by one. Next, run another wire (last one, preferably black because it's ground) from a good grounding point on the car (next to the fuse box in the drivers side foot well there is a grounding bolt which is what I used) to the headlight stalk, now you can start zip tying everything in the foot well. Next cut the wire at a reasonable point and solder a diode to each wire coming from the fuse box, the line on the diode facing away from the wire, and solder the wire onto the other side of the diode. 7. Now, this is the last part (you can put the side panel and stuff back on and bolt down the fuse box, it's all done, also, if you haven't wrapped all your solder connections in tape yet, do it, plus wrap the fuse box tab and loom together again). Cut both head light stalk connectors off but make sure there is a reasonable amount of wire left, first we will wire up the indicators, there are 3 wires responsible for this, the blue and white cable, a green and black cable and a creamy coloured cable, these are on pins 4, 7 and 8 of the large connector, solder them so that the creamy coloured cable is on pin 4 (unfortunately I forgot the polarity for the other 2 but if it doesn't work, switch them around but I think blue and white goes to pin 2 and green and black goes to pin 3 otherwise it's 3 and 2 respectively, sorry and don't worry, nothing will blow up or die), next connect the wire you connected to pin 7 of the auto light control unit to pin 5 of the big connected for the headlight stalk, then pin 6 of the auto light control unit and the wire you ran for the low beams to pin 12 of the small connector for the stalk, then connect the wire from pin 2 of the auto light control unit and the wire ran for the tail light to pin 1 of the large connector for the stalk, finally connect the high beam wire to pin 8 of the stalk and you are done! Just connect the auto headlight control unit to the connector and the unit into the trim above it, tidy up your wires and put the rest of the trim back together. If you have any questions please comment below, I'm sorry if this seems a little simple or vague. If you want to test it, flick the headlight stalk on different settings, also, your car key needs to be in the "on" position for the auto function to work as well as it being dark enough (or if you want them off, light enough), also, leaving it in auto and taking the key out will turn off the headlights, cool huh?

Well, for anybody who is still interested in having the auto headlight feature, here's a simple guide. This feature was only available on sedan models or as an optional extra as I have gathered. Things required: R34 sedan fuse box (as we need the exclusive 7 pin relays (6 pin really) that the sedan has) ~ $50 Auto headlight stalk ~ $15-20 Auto headlight control unit with trim with a clear plastic circle (black L shaped box posted above, trim is located directly above the unit, the bit with the grill) ~ $20-30 Soldering iron Wire (coloured is preferable, red and black coloured wires was what I used) Electrical tape (I don't specifically tell you to use it, but whenever you have finished soldering a joint etc, wrap it up) Total cost of car parts $85-100 Difficulty - Hard (not for the faint of heart, as we will be ripping the car to pieces xD you have been warned!) 1. This is the easiest part, acquire all the bits and find the connected for the auto headlight control unit (behind the cluster) it should be a light grey plug and is taped to the loom running across the back. 2. Go open the bonnet and unbolt the fuse box, note to do this you will need to take off the funnel for the window washing liquid (just give it a small pull after undoing the bolt holding it in) and take the battery out (probably a good thing for what we are going to do next) 3. This is a little tricky, we need to get access to the underneath of the fuse and relay panel, to do this, there are 4 tabs located on the top and bottom of the brown panel holding the fuses and relays in, once all four are pushed in, you can proceed with lifting it up. It doesn't budge you say? Oh right.. you need to undo the Japanese bondage tape (MCM reference xD) where the loom enters from the drivers side side panel to the fuse box (it covers a plastic tab on the fuse box), this frees the fuse box and allows you to push the loom into the fuse box so that the brown piece can lift out with a bit more ease. Next, have a look at the bottom of the sedan box and coupe box, you will notice on the coupe that the relay holder down the bottom is missing 3 pins, grab the wires with the sockets on them from the sedan version by using a small flat head to bend the plastic bits and slide the connectors out then insert them into the coupe fuse box, they should click in and not come back out. That's the easy part.. 4. If you made it this far you are determined, it's not so bad, now, undo the connectors to the head light stalk, next you need to take the drivers side side panel off (mind the paint, it's too easy for the clips on the inside of the drivers side door to scratch the door when taking it off the car >.>) now, look at the r34 workshop manual and scroll down to the auto headlight section, have a look at the headlight stalk connector pins, we will be referring to this layout (for reference, you are looking at the back of the plug, not the front, stupid I know as its more annoying to test). For this part, we need to run 3 new wires from the headlight stalk to the fuse box (run them along the loom as it helps). Next go to the fuse box side and solder one of the wires you just ran to the fuse box to the thinner wire we inserted into the fuse box earlier, next, push out the 2 relays for the head light left and right and cut the wires leading to them, now this is just a guessing game, if you don't care about the fuses being misleading, just solder the 2 xenon wires to the other 2 wires we placed in the fuse box, and you are done, if you care about the order of the fuses, unsolder then switch them around, that's the low beams done. To tidy up, there is a holder for 2 15A fuses on the bottom right of the fuse box, cut the fat red wire going to it and pull, if you cut the relays before, the 2 wires should do a loop the loop around the fuse box and come out cleanly, as for the fat red wire, it's connected on the top of the fuse box, just cut it off, as it's not needed anymore, and put the 2 15A fuses in the bottom two empty slots of the fuse box, cut the wires back from the relays cut earlier and tape them at the ends, connect the battery and test to see if the low beams work after you touch the wire going to the head light stalk to ground if so, we shall move on. Continued in the next post

Hey all, I was wondering if somebody could tell me an easy way to open up the 2 little compartments on the white wiring box located in the drivers side foot well? It has 2 grey tabs across them that are preventing me from opening them up, I've tried pulling and prying at them, but they won't budge, I don't want to pull too hard in case I snap something, so I wanted to ask on here first before I go further. It's so I can test the continuity of some wires, it's an R34 coupe NA. Thanks in advance MadMatt

Was fortunate enough to find it at a wrecking yard, it's an L shaped black thing with a light sensor on top, it is also accompanied by a bit of trip that has a clear plastic circle piece in it, it's available only in sedan models, but fits coupe models, to get this to work, either a new loom is required for the headlights, etc, or running new cables and chopping the old ones, I may end up doing the latter, however there are two relays that I can't find, the tail lamp relay, and the headlight relay, I'm not sure if they are in the fuse box in the engine bay, or under the dash, the headlight relay in the worship manual for the auto headlight has 7 pins, maybe somebody can solve this mystery until I next get a chance to see a sedan r34 MadMatt

Are you able to remove the combination meter to show us what the auto headlight control unit looks like? it should be located right at the back (a largish module), it would be a great help for us to find one MadMatt P.S sorry for the double post, there was no option to add a quote to my post

I have been following this topic for a while now so I decided to create an account and post my findings. I bought one of the auto sticks and as preciously said, it's not plug and play. First, I trimmed the plug to fit the auto stick, but the problem doesn't end there, not only do I think the wiring for the plug is different to the wiring of the plug for the stalks without the auto switch (explains the notch to prevent people from doing it XD), but the cars manufactured without the auto stalk are missing the auto headlight control unit, it's supposed to be located behind the combination meter, the plug is there (right up the back, it was taped to a black cylindrical bar, it's a gray plug), but alas, you need to find the unit at the wreckers and plug it in. If I get my hands on this part I'll gladly update you guys, as even though some people have said its not worth it, it's still an interesting thing to do and you learn a bit about the wiring of the car. MadMatt