StockyMcStock

it's an Eaton M90 from the states, same as the ones used on the late model commodores over here. lots cheaper to get one sent over trust me, they're a dime a dozen over there! and yes you did hear me say RB30DEST it's a bit of a fun engine to build, this one. very very strange but you will be surprised how well it will work.

T-minus three or four months with any luck. i bloody well hope the blower gets here before then, never been through US postal before so i hope they're okay.

how much did they charge you to do that BookyVL? i need to do something similar to mine..... but i bet the local fabricator would be a heap cheaper than SubZero.

getting there slowly!

valve float is a possibility too, didn't think of that. the exhaust manifold is reaching its limits pretty hard up around those sorts of airflows though, it seems to be the likely culprit if you've tried adjusting the cam timing with no significant effect.

i would point straight at the cam timing here. on a 30DET it's never OEM cam timing so you could really be anywhere and not know it. lathe up some adjustable gears and tweak em, i bet you pull that top end power figure up a fair bit. if you've already done this and it doesn't work, next thing would be that exhaust manifold. i'm amazed you got that much out of it actually, they're ugly little buggers.

well the 1.34 rear has similar flow specs to a .96 rear GT42 - which will support up to about 900hp. the ONLY reason i chose this turbo (apart from the fact that the new series GT wheels flog the shit out of T04's etc) is that the rear housing is roughly twice the size i would normally have chosen if i was matching a turbo on its own to this engine. if i had to choose a turbo to suit the engine, it would be a GT35/40 1.06 rear (maybe .86 rear) without a doubt. as it was, i needed a turbo which would supply 500hp worth of air at about 8-9psi without being outside the surge line on the compressor map. this means i needed a big A/R on the compressor, but a smallish wheel. the rear, of course, had to be bloody massive otherwise it'd hit too hard and choke the top end. in the end the turbo came from rotormaster in VIC, apparently a few of the 13B rotaries like to use these as drag turbos. apart from the 7psi as soon as my foot hits the floor, i'm hoping for full pressure from the turbo at about 3000rpm. cams might hold it back a little but i'm sure it'll be fine to potter around in, pick groceries up in etc EDIT: cubes whack those photos into the DET guide if you want - but make sure you tell people that using a series one block will cost you a LOT in drill bits, taps and fittings! MUCH more than just buying a series 2 block would have. if i could start again, i would never ever had used a S1 block, too much rooting around.

the oil return? i used a normal untapered tap but the piece i screwed in there (3/4 BSP) is tapered so it locks in snugly. btw turbo is a GT40 1.34 A/R turbine. will post some pics of it with the manifold on when it's completed.

lol i still can't believe you've got the stock turbo on there, it's way out of its league it should be pulling hard right to 6500 where the cams start to nose off, if not then you have the wrong turbo for sure. but you already know this, just need money for a bigger one. i know how it feels...... where i put the tensioner there is nothing to worry about, i figured i could use the bottom left tensioner but the top one would have to be tapped straight into the number 1 exhaust head bolt - not good! so i used the top left (new) tensioner location and put one across the other side as well. i'll try and arrange a camera to show you. the pulley will come very close to the power steering bracket and the cam cover can't be used without cutting but it will work fine.

EDIT: cubes i just tapped another hole up on the top face of the block and relocated the bottom tensioner up there. looks the goods and works perfectly. i'll try and get some pics for you to put in the 30DET guide in case anyone else starts the conversion with the same block that i had.

i know what you mean, but i'll look into the above idea first. if it's not possible i'll have to block the present hole off into the water gallery and do it again

jesus h christ, will this goddam engine ever be built? it's a series one block from a VL and i bet you that the series 2 blocks have the flat area machined as well, same as the R31 block. sweet jesus this is starting to piss me off something chronic, i really should have started with a series 2 block that pic shows exactly what i'm talking about. i've already drilled and tapped the tensioner hole. i'm thinking of bulking it up with a few big spots of weld or even tapping in a stud there so that the edge of the tensioner's base can be held at the right level. it only needs one point of bracing, to stop it from flexing away to the side and ramping the belt off. a big blob of weld there and then angle grinding it flat should do the trick i think...... i hope

did any of you guys have this problem on your 30DET? i just put my cam belt on and tensioned her up, the bottom tensioner stud doesn't sit on a flat machined surface because it's moved across as per the way everyone else has done it. because of this, when you tension the belt up it flexes the stud and the idler doesn't sit straight. it's enough to make the belt run off to one side and will probably destroy it after a while, not good! what did you guys do about this problem? the stud has to sit on a flat surface because the pulley idler needs to clamp down on hard onto the surface to stop it bending one way or the other. anyone else find this?

1. The biggest you possibly can get. Having said that, most in-tank low pressure high volume pumps will easily flow enough to keep the surge tank full. 2. Bosch 044 or two smaller ones. 3. Make your own out of a bit of 4 inch stainless pipe, weld a top and bottom to it and put some fittings on.

willing to separate the gate?

hmmmm...... thanks for the help. i'll keep thinking!

yeah the transfer case still have to be there - but you can choose to disable it if the need arises. how, i'm not quite sure actually? Th GTR box of any series uses the larger RB25-style tailshaft. the only small one is the RB20DET tailshaft yoke which is pretty tiny in comparison. putting the box into an R32 RB20 would need a new tailshaft yoke, but putting it in place of an RB25 would be fine in terms of tailshafts. i'd normally get an R33 RB25 box too, but this one is quite cheap, certainly cheaper than an R33 box. the R33 box is the one to go for, if you've got the extra $$$ i agree.

interesting..... so is there any real reason the 32 GTR box can't be put into a RWD RB25 skyline? transfer case will not be being used obviously, but do they physically fit?

Does anyone know of any differences in the R33 and R32 GTR manual gearboxes? Particularly in terms of strength, but anything that may be useful. I'm looking at buying an R32 GTR box with the transfer case disabled and need to know if it's the same strength and a direct fit for an R33 RB25DET box which it will be replacing. As i understand, once you disable the transfer case the GTR boxes are interchangeable with the RB25DET boxes - but not sure on the R32 to R33 mixing. Any help appreciated, cheers guys!

MarkE: new pistons, keep the old rods. get them beam polished and crack tested and they'll be fine. btw the haltech would have a switch which you'd need to mount somewhere around the gearlever.

dave you're my hero. that's great power from such a small turbo, it must have fantastic response too!

I would murder small children in vast quantities to obtain a diagram like the one you posted for the R33 skyline. If anyone has one and wants a few annoying brats bumped off, please post here.

3/4 inch BSP tap. it's big.

luke on the ECU side of my ignitor there's 7 pins - 1 2 3 G 4 5 6 as you describe. on the coil side there's six pins, each to one coil. there are, however, two large guage wires on a separate 2-pin plug which bypass the coil and plug into the loom further up. i assume one of these is a ground and one is a switching signal for the tacho input or something that the ECU needs. edit: your motec diagram is the opposite to what mine appears to be. maybe the GTR ignitor is different to the GTS-T ignitor?