StockyMcStock

needs a tune - what's with the jumpy A/F's? nice curve though, how's the lag?

so IYHO for an RB30DET running 15psi, how should i assemble the inlet cam? right in the middle at zero, or advanced a bit?

so sydneykid, from all the R33 GTS-T inlet cam gears you have seen, whereabouts should the screw sit in the adjustment arc? middle? to one end fully? edit: haha beat me to it!

consider that with a properly sized turbo (GT35/40 1.06 rear for example) you will be hitting 450rwhp at about 15 psi, judging on what other people have got with decent tuning. the pistons will be fine unless it pings. in which case forgies will last about 2 seconds longer than cast pistons before destroying themselves. the rods are what you need to worry about. standard RB30 rods prepped (stress-relieved then shotpeened) will get you to about 300rwkw reliably, but i wouldn't push them to 7000rpm too regularly, know what i mean? GTR springs could be worthwhile if you are using a DE head - apparently the seating pressure can be a bit iffy on them. or just get it checked by a head specialist and see what sort of pressure they're actually getting.

my measurements RE squish: using RB30E pistons, deck heigh = zero. standard nissan head gasket = 47 thou estimated head gasket crush at full torque (head stud kit) = 5-10 thou (can't get a very accurate answer for this) so anywhere between 42 and 37 thou is where my quench is. easily within the acceptable limits of rod/crank/piston stretch @ 7000rpm

the dude who supplied me with them reckoned they were teflon coated crowns but i really didn't care so didn't look into it much. ceramic coating on the other hand would be useful.

yeah but they have teflon coated crowns don't they? and some have teflon coated skirts as well but i can't remember which ones :confused:

35kw gain from ONLY a different plenum? remember at full throttle the fact that there is six of them does not matter because they are fully open. the fact that the runners are larger doesn't matter much either, as the 25 head inlets will still pose the exact same restriction as they did before. from a fluid dynamics point of view, 35kw gain is highly unlikely. possible on a very highly strung race engine however. if that's the case, say so.

35kw gain..... sure.

no, not at all. are they side feed or top feed?

finally got my AFM, post office buggered up not sending me a slip in the mail. i apologise unreservedly if my comments offended anyone or cast doubt over chris's reliability, i just wanted to say "be careful" that's all. p.s. Chris can you pm me back with details on the AFM pinouts if you get a chance?

they will be standard cast pistons, only new. grub screws in the crank are for the rod lubricating oil journals on the big end, nissan drilled big long holes to connect them and then bashed aluminium plugs in there to plug em up so oil wouldn't leak out (duh) and lose pressure. after a lot of k's they can become loose so you drill em out, tap it and put a 1/4" grub screw in there. stake it and you're done! it sounds exactly the same as my block, you're looking at $500-$700 of prep work by a machine shop and up to a grand again for rebuild parts (rings, bearings, pistons, seals etc) so i wouldn't pay more than $1300 for it.

i have a set of RB25 ARP head studs, i don't know what you guys are on about?

so anyone got a completely stock R33 GTS-T and can they have a look at where the VVT cam backing plate is in regards to rotation? and why the hell is it adjustable, surely nissan would have found the sweet spot and left the holes there rather than making it possible to swing the cam around?

when i bought my R33 head (non-turbo) the VVT inlet cam gear had the adjustable backing plate that you describe. mine too is adjusted fully towards the end of the range, i have no idea if this is correct. EDIT: just by looking at it, it would appear that this position is the farthest advanced position the cam can sit at. is this where it's supposed to be? :confused:

the one i just bought has B-D-E on it, so i'm assuming the pinouts are in fact different between the two types, and that i should NOT use the pinouts as B-Man found his?

sorry to dredge this thread up again guys but it's been somewhat helpful in determining my Q45 pinouts. however it appears from reading all of the replies that B-Man has different pinouts to other people. he found that from left to right (BDE) it was SIG, GND, IGN. this is what i would assume looking at my wiring colours (WHITE, BLACK, RED) in the same order. however there was a few people beforehand who found that it was IGN, SIG, GND and their cars ran perfectly like this. can anyone shed some light?

yep, and the n/a ones are red.

when my head was taken apart the idiot bashed the 12 inlet guides out with a punch and rooted them beyond belief. all the guides had a bit of wear but were still fine to use, the engine had done 100,000km or so i believe. if you have to replace them with new ones, there's a trick. new from nissan they are $90 each or something stupid like that. aftermarket ones do not exist (at least, my engine parts stockist could not get them) but we measured em up and found: OD: 10mm ID: 6mm Length: 38?mm can't remember exactly. anyway turns out the CA18 uses exactly the same measurements, but the guide is physically longer. buy 12 of them for $100 or so and lathe the ends off to bring the length down. works a treat!

2 problems: 1) RB20 head uses very small valves, and the bore size is different to the RB30. it will not work. 2) if you can score an RB30 short motor with forgies then they are 90% likely to be turbo pistons (low compression) and i would throw a custom cam in it and turbo the RB30. changing pistons and using the 25 head will take a lot of money and may not be worth the hassle.

i agree, jim berry is a champ - my clutch is coming from him when i get it. nice guy too.

T25G from an SR20DET. only difference is the larger compressor wheel and a/r which is a great help! the inlet pipe is a bit different too, but nothing major. we have good results from one of these on a mate's CA18DET, LOTS better than the standard turbo.

ban skylines?

exactly the same boost level as what i'm going to be running, but i'll be using a larger turbo. amazing power out of the 35/40 at just 15psi, i didn't know they could push such numbers at so little boost!

guys he told me he has sent to Q45 AFM about 4 weeks ago but it still hasn't turned up. now he will not answer emails. be careful.....