StockyMcStock

As title states. RB25 powerFC, fully tunable ECU, was running on my RB25/30 VL. Has a tune in it for that engine on stock 380cc injectors. Will suit both series 1 and 2 R33 heads I believe. Comes with hand controller. Price: $1000 Will post anywhere, or pickup in inner north melbourne. Extras you might be interested in: Q45 air flow meter - good for up to 400kw before it runs out of scope 550cc injectors x 6 on an RB25 rail stock 380cc injectors on an RB25 rail

Apologies for the link, but it's just easier this way: http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=2664074 I built this car myself and know it inside and out. It's currently sitting at my place in melbourne and the engine needs a new home. Perfect for someone wanting to build a ridiculous R33 setup, this will essentially bolt in to your car, and the powerFC will plug in and it will run. Asking $7500, can be shown running and driven. Fairly serious piece of gear for quite cheap. The power delivery will make you shit your pants. sincerely, Sir Stockington the 3rd

will it come with a roadworthy? interested. pm me if you like. engine bay and interior photos would help too. cheers!

pm'd you just a quick heads up, when you're selling a car - try not to put pics of you raping it at a khana day. most people would be a bit worried that the gearbox and driveline have had a very hard time!

as above. worn rod bearing on 6 from detonation = rod flop around the crank = excessive vertical travel of the piston = things hitting. if the holes in the piston top are only on one side of the piston, then i would think that some foreign body has got in there between the two surfaces and smashed around a few times before being ejected. however the most likely option is that it detonated due to a hotspot on the piston top, and that's what those marks are. unfortunately i would advice pulling it apart and getting it rebuilt

hey look it's my old bedroom floor! glad someone else found a use for the pic. that's taken straight after i had my head reconditioned (RB25 head BTW) to figure out what you should do, you need to understand squish/quench. basically the piston moves towards TDC, and as the edges of the piston get within 40 thou or less of the quench areas, the gas/fuel mixture gets pushed as massive velocity in from the sides, towards the crown of the chamber (spark plug). it swirls and mixes further, and the pressure changes induce a better, more complete burn of the charge. hence you can put more timing in, and the engine is more efficient (generates more power) Now my understanding with race setups is limited, but you should aim somewhere around 30-40thou for quench if memory serves me right (clearance between piston edge and head) to allow for some rod stretch at high RPM. with a pure race engine which will be operating with high boost pressures, i believe some people take off the squish areas in the 25/26 heads because at very high RPM, the squish effect starts to sap power rather than add it (logically the higher the piston speed gets, the less the swirl effect from squish will help combustion, because the charge will be so mixed anyway). i think someone mentioned something about the problem of the squish area sending sections of the gas supersonic which may harm things as well, but i'm not sure on that. someone with a race 26 engine will know more hopefully.

I would also love to know how a certain blowoff valve can "hold" a certain amount of POWER. I'd love to hear that explanation.

Here are the instructions on how to disable the VCT on your RB30DET with no external oil feed required. Just two little grub screws and a welsh plug I wish i had a better photograph (with the rear timing cover off) but i don't, so this will have to do: where i have marked (approximately) on the head there is what appears to be a copper welsh plug. It looks, from the outside, like a normal welsh plug, but it is not. it blocks the front cam bearing from recieving any oil via the lifter oil feed rail (big long casting hole which runs next to the lifters, you'll see it with the cam cover off). it supplies high pressure oil to the lifters and cam lobes, and is fed via the block oil restrictors. what you need to do is drill that welsh plug out. you'll see what i mean about it not being normal once you're through the first layer of it. don't do this with the engine assembled, swarf goes everywhere! when you have removed that weird looking plug, the front cam bearing is now recieving high pressure oil all the time, same as the other lifters. now, there are two holes in the cam bearing face, one is connected to the lifter's oil feed (high pressure) and one is not. you block the one that is not with a grub screw (tap it in, screw it in, stake it) and drill a hole in another grub screw as an oil restrictor (same size as the other cam bearings' holes). this other grub screw (restrictor) then goes into the hole that is now connected to the lifter's oil feed. plug the welsh plug hole up with..... a welsh plug (18mm i think from memory?) and you're done. so what you have in effect now is, a full oil supply to that front cam bearing all the time. problem is, this will activate your VCT all the time! not good! 20 degrees of cam advance isn't as good as it sounds. the cam has a trench milled in it with a couple of holes which allows the oil to pass through to the VCT mechanism. so you need to take the big eye bolt out of the funky cam end and weld the bolt closed. this normally allows passage of the high pressure oil to the VCT mechanism in the end of the cam gear. with this welded closed, no oil can get through to the mechanism. if you have a head apart, you can easily see what i mean. it's hard to understand without pics but anyone who's taken one of these apart will know what i'm talking about. 2500km on mine and going strong - it must be working! cheers

Look, if he's got an external wastegate then it is not underneath the inlet manifold. it should be underneath or to the rear of the exhaust manifold. You only really need to connect one hose to it, and that is the BOTTOM pressure fitting on the gate, in other words the pressure fitting that is closest to the heat of the exhaust gases. This fitting needs to "see" boost pressure, this can come either from the plenum or from a fitting on the piping somewhere, it doesn't really matter. Hooking boost pressure up to the top wastegate fitting will cause the car to run unlimited boost and it will destroy things. Essentially the moral of the story is, if your mate doesn't even know what an external wastegate is, or how it works, he should probably get it put back together by a workshop to be on the safe side.

see this is why people blow engines up by accident external wastegates have two pressure feeds, one on each side of a diaphragm. boost pressure needs to push the wastegate poppet valve open (against the spring's resistance) and hence the BOTTOM wastegate line needs a pressure feed from the compressor outlet/piping.

another trick is to get a reverse direction drill bit and just drill into the thing, it will bind and jam at some stage which will almost certainly shock the jammed stud enough to get it loose. shock loading can be a wonderful thing sometimes.

valves and flow path switching are painfully difficult to operate smoothly, and have a few definate drawbacks with respect to engine efficiency. a simple blow-through like i have used easily negates these problems. i still believe it to be the safest, easiest and most efficient method of twincharging - simply because of the pressure discrepancy devoloped at full throttle between intake and exhaust back pressures. when intake pressure exceeds exhaust back pressure, you get a lot more free power from the engine, and significantly less chance of detonation.

here you go: http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh...ght=contraption read it all, it's worthwhile. it does work very well indeed.

Some of you guys have a lot to learn. Others are getting there, very few actually know what they're talking about. Go build a twincharged engine - ask lots of questions and learn as much as you can along the way. That's what I did, and the result is quite simply spectacular. It really is the best of all worlds. Snappy transient boost response at ANY RPM (even at 1000rpm you can have positive manifold pressure), good fuel consumption (for a 400hp car), giant midrange torque with NO compromise to top-end power (235rwkw from a stock-cammed RB25/30 on 9psi) and a much safer engine compared to a turbocharged-only setup because it runs so far from the detonation threshold. During valve overlap, if you have more pressure in the inlet tract than in the exhaust manifold, you get positive pressure sweeping the chamber clean of incredibly hot exhaust gas residuals - hence a cleaner, significantly colder charge. More power, less chance of detonation, more efficient engine. Comparing superchargers to turbochargers and asking which is better is a bit like asking whether an apple is better than an orange. At what? When? On which engine? For what purpose? Which supercharger type? Which turbocharger? The list goes on. If I had to choose between a street 500hp RB26 running an Opcon twin screw blower and a 500hp RB25 running turbochargers, I'd choose the supercharged one. If the car's purpose was drag racing, i'd go the turbo and run a giant stall convertor because top-end power is all that really matters for a drag car. Essentially the "debate" boils down to three simple words; Horse For Courses.

okay somehow people started talking about rally car inlet restrictors there but essentially there is nothing to it, the split pulse exhaust housing will not make significantly more power. Given that there are ?no? T3 flanged split pulse turbo upgrades available within the boundaries you specify, the average punter will need to either make up a custom made spacer plate or use a custom manifold. if that means one hundred dollars or one thousand dollars of extra cost, the loss far exceeds any potential gain. Spending that hundred bucks extra on an intercooler or good quality cold air box will be much more effective. Oh ps: you're right about the Evo turbos - split pulse all the way. it just becomes cost-inhibitive to put a split pulse turbo on a stock skyline manifold due to all the other things you need to change (oil, water fittings, flanges etc)

Hi guys, looking for an R33 manual gearbox in Brisbane. Would prefer it to come with shifter, tailshaft yoke, slave cylinder, throwout fork and bearing carrier but willing to negotiate otherwise. Needs to be in South East Queensland because i need to come and look at it before buying. Freighting these buggers is a killer. Thanks, Stocky

the rationale for the thread, i believe, was to explore the idea that a twin scroll turbo bolted onto an RB25 manifold could be better than all the current turbos people are using with open collectors. power level is irrelevant, the theory behind the different housings remains the same: shield as many of the exhaust pulses from the other cylinders as possible to avoid any one cylinder being hit with a very high pressure spike from another cylinder. thus, you will gain maximum scavenging from all cylinders. the answer is theoretically yes, it will help, but it is not a significant difference. by using a more efficient and modern turbocharger with improved wheels/scroll angles/internal leakage etc you will far outstrip the potential gains to be had from using an older twin scroll turbo. i don't know of many dedicated modern twin scroll turbos rated at less than 800hp, but then again i haven't looked for one since i bought mine.

lol, talk about making a mountain out of a molehill. you guys have taken the massive leap of believing that split pulse turbine housings make significantly more power, or are significantly more efficient than an open housing. there certainly is a difference, but it is by no means significant. my opinion is that split pulse will always be better (all else being equal) as you shield the interference pulses from each other a bit more effectively than on an open collector. the downside is the angles involved in the merging gas streams are usually a bit more acute, which is not good. but shielding the pulses so that any given exhaust valve never sees a huge spike in back pressure from another valve is PROBABLY going to outweigh the gains given by a slightly more obtuse entry angle. can't say for certain. what i can say is that the difference between two optimised designs of split pulse and open collector (all else being perfectly equal) will not be hugely significant. by simply porting the head, or using a custom manifold or larger exhaust size, you will easily outstrip the power and efficiency gains to be had from using an optimised split pulse exhaust side. essentially if you're looking for a bolt-on turbo for an RB25 manifold, you are totally negating the benefits of using a split pulse turbo anway, since you are using the shitty stock manifold to bolt it to. the gains would not be measurable, and certainly not as cost effective as fitting a better intercooler or exhaust manifold.

RB25 with those mods should be making a lot more power than 190rwkw. perhaps the dyno just reads very low, and the car is making much more, thus maxing out the AFM? how does it feel on the road using your high tech seat of the pants dyno?

for 450rwhp and good response, i'd definately go the 35/40 with .86 rear. the 3040 will probably *just* do it, but it will take a lot of boost, and that's not as safe as the slightly larger turbo with less back pressure.

dyno chart as requested:

jeez you're keen letting 101 work on your car. i'd be glad it's in one piece!

jeez they took a bit off. oversize stainless valves as well?

easy fix - take the relief spring out and replace it with a lower tension spring until you get the pressure where you want it.

agreed, do that ^^^ just check to see which way it all opens etc, you'll figure it out. the TPS has an arrow on it showing closed to open direction. it is the same as the XF throttle body, but opposite to the RB25 one. if the shaft does not fit inside the TPS, you need to file a flat section in it until it fits snugly on. i've heard that some XF shafts need this to be done.