StockyMcStock

externally placed coils will be less affected by engine heat, i have known a fair few direct fire ignition coils placed directly on top of the spark plugs to overheat and crack.

shan - still haven't recieved my order yet........ have you sent them all?

stock pistons with standard bore size will give me anywhere betwen 8.2 and 8.9 compression ratio, which i am happy with. i thought as much with the squish area, but i thought it would have been larger. maybe i'm just optimistic and have looked at too many motorbike engines no worries, i can calculate the quench off the head clearance without any problems. any ideas on RB30 head gasket thickness?

need this gone, taking offers!

okay so i today i bolted my crank and new pistons back in, and measured the deck clearance. by this i mean piston edge to block face clearance. it was zero, in other words the piston edges at TDC were exactly level with the top of the block. i looked at my RB25 head, and noticed that the combustion chambers don't appear to have large squish areas. the only apparent squish areas i could see are the lateral (side to side, not front to back) edges of the combustion chamber, where it is exactly level with the head face. the closest recess after these (to the piston) is the lateral border of the combustion chamber but it is 2.5 mm or so from deck height, which is way too far for a conventional squish setup of 40 thou. so my questions are: 1) do i set the quench (squish) up using just these areas as a reference guide? in other words, do i set up the clearance from piston edge deck height to the head face as 40 thou? 2) what thickness is a fully torqued down genuine nissan head gasket? (obviously need to know this so i can figure out the quench!) cheers, -Stocky

buyer fell through - still for sale!

cheers mate, never heard of them but will call tomorrow arvo. cheers!

still looking.....

okay i just checked my R33 non turbo plenum and it does not look anything like that, the top-bottom join on the runners are all on the same level, and they all look pretty damn similar in length. so i'd say i'm okay with the plenum as it is...... p.s. jesus there's a lot of goddam coolant lines on these buggers!

can't make what?

the engine is going into a VL (/me hides from flamethrowers) and as such should have no real clearance issues i believe. the main thing that worries me is the possibility of 5 & 6 running lean from too much air, but just by looking at my plenum's runners they don't appear to be much different from the other four. i might just leave it and see.

another quick question: has anyone had any problems using the R33 n/a plenum instead of the turbo plenum? i have heard that the last two runners are shorter and may cause issues with air flow distribution to 5 and 6. is this rumour or truth?

bankids: pm me your bank account details. how does $50 sound for the loom, plus postage and COD costs of course.

bump!

good question - i would like to know this too.

chasing the full engine loom with intact plugs and no cuts anywhere, can you help me? must be willing to COD to brisbane!

As the title says, i need the engine wiring loom in good nick from an R33 skyline, can be either turbo or non-turbo as i beleive they are almost exactly the same. using a powerFC so doesn't matter, so long as it's from an R33! located in brisbane, looking to pay $50-100 preferably locally.

pm replied

For sale is my Hawk EC21 EMS. head on over to EFI hardware to check out full specs. basically it is a complete management system like microtech, autronic, motec etc but much cheaper because it's australian made. it tunes in 125rpm increments and has a higher resolution tuning map than any other ECU out there (perhaps bar megasquirt) for very fine adjustments. it does closed loop for good fuel economy also. i will include with the package: - Control unit - Full loom to suit Z18T 4 cylinder which even comes with the three critical relays so you can just wire up about 10 wires into your existing loom and it will run. - Water temp sensor, ECU is calibrated to this. you can calibrate your standard sensor if you so choose. - Air temp sensor, calibrated also - 3 bar (30psi) map sensor for big boost applications - Delco TPS which you may or may not use, you can calibrate your standard TPS to work fine if you desire - ECU-computer comm cable - CD with wiring diagrams, software and a full manual which describes every detail about the functions of the ECU - A number of base maps which you can choose from, depending on your application. EFI hardware will be happy to email you a base map if your engine isn't in the list. the reason for sale is i have chosen to go powerFC which will plug straight into my loom. looking for offers over $700 for everything. this is a very easy to use and fine tuning resolution ECU, i would definately recommend it to anyone wanting a cheap ECU upgrade. pm me or reply here, i'm happy to post it but you pay ($15 or so anywhere) and i am located in brisbane

okay, so he's the man i need. i really want someone with experience with powerFC's but most of all experience with RB30DET's. i'm buggered if i will let any joe schmoe tune this engine once it's done, i want someone who knows their way around it assways. sounds like the Q45 AFM is the go, it's ID is even larger than the 3 inch pipe i'll be running if those figures are correct. do they handle pressurised air fine, just like any other hotwire AFM?

fantastic, cheers. i'll ditch the 3 bar map sensor i have at the moment. what do you do about largish (500 engine horsepower) power AFM's? i have heard rumours of people using Z32 AFM guts in a 3 inch pipe to slow the charge velocities down and not max the AFM out...... how would you go about this? using two AFM's on separate induction pipes is not possible as the AFM must be placed after the intercooler in my application. i understand a Q45 AFM goes up to 300-odd rwkw but they're expensive buggers and hard to find. p.s. when this engine is up and running, i want you to tune it. do i have to book? edit: will be running with GTR 440cc squirters.

Looking to purchase a powerFC for an RB25/30 using an R33 n/a head. questions: 1) must i specify that i want it to drive an N/A head (injectors etc are different capacity obviously) so that it will plug straight in? 2) i understand i can select different AFM's easily enabling me to upgrade to a Z32 or Q45 AFM, however can i use a MAP sensor if chasing really big power? can the outputs of a different meter be calibrated so that the powerFC can use them? 3) does the powerFC come with tuning software for a laptop (i know it has a hand controller) so that i can tune it, or do i have to search for a dyno tuner who has licenses for the software? cheers

you need an electronic boost control solenoid. stageas came standard with them i believe. anyone using anything else?

good work shan, have fun sending out all those orders