StockyMcStock

when you can design a plate (or any other type of) clutch system that can engage and operate smoothly at 70,000rpm, let me know. until then it's useless.

it scares me that you can't spell but can afford both those cars. looks the goods though.

big hose is the idle air bypass hose. it goes after the AFM, in the piping somewhere. BOV hose goes to the plenum, there's a fitting behind the throttle body (towards the firewall) which the hose slips onto.

welds look worse than they are i promise. hadn't been cleaned up in this picture.

lol that's twice now i've been caught out using words that aren't 100% correct. in my previous post, delete the word "perfectly". but i am still expecting torque output to be very flat through the whole rev range, which goes a long way towards making a car easier to drive quickly. the number are irrelevant, so long as power is fed in linearly to the wheels with respect to throttle position. at any given point in the usable power band i would hope to be able to control the throttle (and hence traction) with much greater ease than a conventional turbocharged engine. this is primarily due to turbine shaft speed taking a little while to "catch up" to the engine as you feather the throttle. a roots blown job might be better for this, strictly speaking, but as we know most roots blower setups have a rather sharp drop in torque at the top end. bah anyway we're just being picky gimps now (i'm the pickiest of the bunch haha!) i guess i should get off my ass and build the thing already and stop arguing silly points. p.s. cheers for the info man, i didn't know this either: "3. Aerodynamic drag rises with the square of speed, but the horsepower absorbed rises with the cube of speed." happy to learn new things!

that's cool man - the thing will be twincharged so the boost (and hence throttle response) will be perfectly linear at all RPM with respect to my right foot. makes it a hell of a lot easier to stay on the edge of traction when torque output is flat through the rev range, and perfectly proportional to throttle opening. i'm hoping it will be quite smooth and easy to drive quickly. hoping.

my series one head and cams have the half moon connector, it is 100% a series one head too.

it's irrelevant anyway, as if you disregard the small difference in coils then there is no difference between the two.

depends on what you class as "loss of traction". i was being liberal with the term i guess, as what was actually happening there in third was that i was getting a bit of wheel skip under power through the turn, and had to back off. no way i'm going to stay into it doing 130+ around a turn like that, not a chance. in 2nd it really turns the tyres, especially if you're trying to go up a hill :s

i reckon you're spot on there - good manifolding helps a lot too. with the size of the rear i have on the turbo the back pressure would be extremely low at this stage.

beats me man - i've got a Q45 and it's hitting load point 18 at 5800rpm or so, haven't watched it all the way to redline yet. next time i go for a drive i'll get it to record the peak voltage on the AFM, see what it gets to. seat of the pants tells me it's making above 200 at the wheels. would be interesting to see what the mixtures are doing on a dyno with it right now, see how close it is to going bang at the top end.

nah she doesn't turn the tyres in third usually, only when you boot it around a corner and you're already on the edge so to speak. second gear is hairy if you're going uphill or around ANY kind of corner (even a very gentle curve) or the air is cold, i reckon it picks up 20-30hp when the temps are below 10 degrees ambient. at the moment i'd be expecting 220+rwkw out of it considering that the injectors are maxed out all the way, with my nismo 550's and the twincharge setup i will be boosting it till it hits 300 at the rears, then i'll stop. for a while at least.

guys that is running a GT40 with 1.34 A/R rear housing, which is waaaay too big for a street turbo, it's just too laggy. does sound good when it comes on boost though, the noise is due to the screamer pipe and awesome* manifold that i made. car is currently running 11psi and is obviously untuned. it's amazing how good the powerFC base map is though, i get no ping at all above 20 most of the time, highest i have ever seen is 27 but i know that it's picking up a lot of that wastegate noise. it drives just like a factory tune and has great response off-boost, which is where it lives 95% of its time. in real life the spool noise is incredible, you can't pick it up much on the camera though. gate noise is not as loud inside the car as you might think. i live out samford way, past ferny grove man, throw me a pm if you want to meet up and have a look. *manifold may not be awesome.

here's a couple of vids from the other night in the cold, sorry about the size. bear in mind i was doing this with one hand holding the camera so excuse my slow shifts. all of these are youtube links so you can't right click and save em unfortunately. 28mb - run through a few gears, up a mountain and i was going in a straight line too! cranky bitch!12mb - a bit of rev limit there hope you enjoy em. edit: R33 racer: yep brisbane northside. recognise any of the roads?

i could certainly be persuaded to take it out for a little spin tonight and show you what it does in the cold air. now i have a working tacho too which is nice, you can see it whip through the gear. though holding onto the video camera while filming the dash and countersteering as it breaks traction at 90km/h is a bit scary......

RB30DERT i love it! haha that's heaps better than DEST for sure. it's still coming along, i am currently enlisting the help of a toolmaker and tig welder to help me fabricate a drive system for the blower. has done 2500km on the turbo without a tune and is going very very well indeed. no dyno results either, but on standard powerFC base map it hauls ass. hoping to have it completed and tuned by christmas.

gotta be happy with that on standard management man!

fark! i'd buy the gearbox if you had a way of getting it to brisbane on the cheap?

theoretically if the ECU was a bit on the slow side, in the first couple of gears where the rate of change of RPM is higher it could be slow in calculating what injector pulse to run at the next predicted RPM/load point. i would have expected this to have been predicted by the ECU manufacturer though, and the processor speed upped enough to discount it. maybe i'm wrong?

tacho output from the ECU.

turbo from CA18DET? those A/R numbers sound familiar to what i saw when we had a mate's apart.

the thread clearly explains why it is best not to do it the way you want. if you really really must do it that way, then good luck. i don't think it will work without a hell of a lot of tinkering, and it still won't be as good as a blow-through. have a good read of the thread first.

you should read the link i kindly found for you. in particular all posts by myself and Warpspeed.

just wondering if anyone had any ideas on this problem. my tacho doesn't work and i think this is why.

if you buy a GTR box and plan to use it in 2wd only mode for the rest of its life, what do you physically have to do to the box to make this happen?