darrinspencer

FYI I can get custom made 356mmx32mm 2 piece rotors for around $350 each. Can machine down diameter to suit smaller wheels. Similar DBA are approx $650 each trade. Can also get a full drive in drive out custom setup to suit yur car and wheels clearances for around $2600 with braided lines etc. Calipers are 8 pot made in South Africa and discs, custom hats and braided lines and caliper brackets made in Brisbane. They can also do the rears by attaching a new bigger disk to the factory centre to retain the drum handbrake and use a smaller 6 pot caliper. Just food for thought What are the piston spec's on the new calipers? Are they any better than the factory brembo's, which are not higher regarded as a good caliper. Poor man's entry level really. Better version is the EVO7,8,9,10 brembo's. Very similar to the F40's version.

The one I gave you is a series 2 cut. The series 2 front end Alex used above was the one off my car

They are basically the same. Maybe just a headlight mounting hole different. If you stay series 2, I have a pair of front guards if needed. Why go series 1, looks or price?

Can someone PM me when the school girls have gone back to school and I will come back to the stagea section. I am off to read some real stuff on Boostcruising.

There suppose to be some large rubber alignment blocks fixed there. They help centre the hatch when closing and maybe help with the height.

That is exactly what I used, but I did away with twin factory reg's and fitted a Sard one, even thuo I did not really need and adjustable one with the siemen 650cc injectors I used. Just be away of the cheap copies. I had fuel leaking from both ends and had to get the end re machined square to seal. I may just have got a dud one which is not unusual for cheap chinese crap. Can buy genuine HKS but $300++

R33 and R34 GTR rims are both 9 inch wide and are +30, so 1mm further in than your +29 So they will sit basically the same to give you an idea. +12 sits out further. looks alot better. Have you fitted them to the car? do they clear the front calipers? (I can not be bothered checking the Rays chart to check if the +29 are Type A or B disk) Stick with the same width front and rear with rim and tyres. Then you can rotate them and have no awd issues.

The aftermarket fuel rail (cheap chinese HKS copy) fits the injectors. What the OP was asking was how to fit the neo injectors in the greddy manifold as the greddy is made for R33 side feed injectors. All you do is keep the standard O ring on the bottom of the injector plus add the R33/S15 larger grommets to fill the manifold. As long as you have enough clampping pressure on the rail they will seal Status posted some pic's on here somewhere showing a close up.

Have you considered swapping the motor or maybe head to a neo rb25det Head has soild lifters, larger exhaust valves already Not sure if the stock neo head will make your power goal, but with researching. May work out alot cheaper

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/306527-r33-greddy-inlet-plenum-onto-a-rb25det-neo/page__hl__greddy+inlet+neo__st__20 I have done this conversion on my neo Read my last post, item no.6

Smart arse!! I will stick with my $190 RB26. Should be here in about 2-3 weeks Just need to work out where to hide it from the missus

I have one in brisbane, can pick up Condition unknown, cam off a complete motor I stripped $70

Just worked out some numbers for cost assuming you went a rebuilt 4.1 with 4.5 internals twin turbo and engineered if possible. $30K give or take 4.1 s/hand $2K 4.5 new internals suit turbo $4K Rebuild costs machining and labor $3K New ECU and wiring $3K Tuning $1K Custom exh manifiold $2K new exhaust $1.5K Turbo's and fitting parts $3.5k Intercooler setup $1.5K Radiator mods $0.5K Drive shafts $1K Engine mounts $0.5K Diff mods suit ratio's $1K manual gearboz adaptor mods to clutch $1K Intake filters mods $0.5K Engineering $1K Bigger Brakes $1K+ Other engine bay mods, wiring, cluster etc $1K Plus any additional labor need $1-4K Not a cheap mod Was a good dream while it lasted

The user in that thread (Gianaval) is Andrew from CCubed that I mentioned earlier in thread. I have just sent him an email to find out how far he went with it

I should be doing some work, but much more fun searching for info Only half thru this 19 pages thread Twin turbo VH45 in a G35 skyline in the usa RWD only http://my350z.com/forum/g35-g37/301119-project-built-vh45de-tt-on-a-g-coupe.html

You have got me thinking about this instead of the Rb26 600hp tractor motor I am building have done a little research The 4.5 internals fit into to 4.1 block with enogh clearances etc. Found this info on a R32 gtr AWD with VH4.1. The guy is in Australia and is/was on here (Skycat) but has not been online for a coupls of years. He did have a Advan as a contact and his real name in his profile. Track him down for all the info. Few pics in this thread http://forums.nicoclub.com/vh41-awd-r32-gtr-skyline-t346785.html Looking at the pics it looks like turbos will have to be mounted foward of engine as they will not fit between engine and strut towers?? This will creat alot of other drama's moving everything out the way. Maybe best keep NA. I will keep searching. What year are these engines? Not sure if they can be made legal esp if they are older than the stagea's??? One of the main reasons I am not going Rb30

CCubed who do the R34 kits for stagea's and made our (crappy) roof rails was working on a AWD V8 I think it was the 4.1. The plan was to either single or twin turbo, can't remember. target around 800hp. I am pretty sure he got to the custom fabrication stage mating the block to gearbox and engine mounts etc. I am pretty sure he has given up the idea putting it in a stagea or GTR. He was mainly devel0ping it for his other passion of race ski boats, where lots of power is needed for long periods of WOT. Not many 800hp++ engines can last long going flat out Give Andrew an email and see if it has developed any further. It may save you some time.

Funny, I sold it for $440, the same you charged me so if you will do it for $100 less now that makes them $340

I won't start a new thread but here is another one, a write off that had a hard violent death Has some good bits in the engine bay thuo (I wish a had more money and no wife, would be great transplant into the stagea ) http://www.manheimfowles.com.au/find_buy/power_search/?unit_key=138310_AU103009703-138310;detail_tab=vinfo;fulltext=skyline;include_salvage=1;salvage_only=;state_all=1;model_all=1;rm=view_detail

Thanks for all the offers Item is now sold

OK I will respond and let the Mods decide whether they delete this or not. They can delete the proengines reference if needed. Firstly 1. I did not make or copy this, I bought it from a guy in SA that made one for himself and made a couple of extra's 2. I am not making any money from this, have decide not to go rb30 as it does not suit me and I no longer need this. 3. I was advised when buying it it was the same as the "proengines" design. From your response it is not exactly same, so I was miss lead. Sorry for the comparison. 4. Lastly, I am not a Dickhead as put in your words. I have been around here long enough to have gain respect from other forum users. I expect the same from you

I want to getrid of this Open to genuine offers

Here you go, save you a couple of dollars The x force dump fit, I use to use one Cheap cat Could use the exhaust and play approx $200 to get it modified to suit the stagea http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346595-r33-gts-t-hks-silent-hi-power-cat-back-dump-pipe-hi-flow-cat-front-mount-18-350z-wheels-disc-rotors/

I used a 300zx one. approx 25-30 longer

For your power goals the JJR Cat will be fine and cheaper If you do buy a JJR dump, just get a money back guarantee if it does not fit. It may or may not hit the floor. HKS exhaust is a good pick