darrinspencer

I have had R34 rear's on mine, now have R33 on there at the moment. They are all the same bolt size as the stagea ones

Give TBS in Brisbane a call. I was there today and they can supply 2 piece rotors upto 356mm and what ever thickness and custom made new alloy hats if needed for approx $350 each. Slotting cost $32 more and slotted and dimpled are $42 more. I think disc on its own is approx around $200 each. Great value and was told as good as DBA 5000's They can also supply the same disc but use stock cast disks by cutting off the hat section and modifing to bolt the disc. These work cheaper than new alloy hats. They also do full front brake kits with new 6 pot AP design calipers, braided lines, custom fitted to your car to suit your wheel clearance drive in drive out fitted for $2400!! The calipers are NOT made in China. They are a 3 piece design with centre section being able to be swapped for different widths to suit what ever size disc thickness. They come form South Africa. Ron the owner has been in the brake buiness for 30 years+ and runs a full remanafacturing buiness with 30+ plus people, so I trust what he sells. Has a couple of race cars aswell which run these calipers.

Importmonster R34 GTR RB26 $6500

Buy a full front cut for $3500 and use the box for a manual conversion

I did mine on a hoist with 2 of us and a gearbox lifter and it still sucked big time. Not a fun job The amount of labor is the same as if you were just getting a clutch replaced, so approx 5.5-6 hours most shops quote Well worth the $500-600 to let a shop do it You can do the hand brake, pedals and wiring etc at home, then drive to a shop to do the box change. Try ERD for a price.

No Only go bigger pistons if you "bore" (machine) the block from 86mm to either 86.5mm or 87mm max Hone is just sort of like sanding it, so you will keep the same size piston, but usually fit new rings. You could use a second hand piston. It will have to be from a "neo" engine as they are different to R33's etc. With the mess you have in that cyinder, I would b3 stripping the entire block to flash out any foriegn metal particals etc. Otherwise you will get it all back togather and have problems later. With the amount of problems you are YET to face and lack of experience, I would suggest finding a complete long motor and move on.

No Good Needs to be "AWD" block to suit the sump

Try the guy wrecking a series 2 manual in the stagea for sale section

Yes stock dumps Ignitor and clutch fan sold

I know you have already bought another head, but you might be better off getting a complete long motor so you do not find any other nasty surprises It will have to be a stagea AWD motor, not a R34 donor as the blocks are different to suit the sump. If the head is already off, it will be pretty simple and quicker to remove the short motor now than trying to replace a piston from below.

Yep

Sorry sold This is what is left Short block c/w crank, rods, pistons, cradle, oil and water pump, harmonic balancer. Needs rebuild std bore had water in no2 $325 pick up only CAS $60 Ignitor $60 P/steer pump $45 Air cond compressor $50 Coils harness $50 ECU wiring harness $200 ECU stock $100 Knock sensors $20 Engine mounts $25 Oil cooler $50 Turbo's pairNow $250 Exhaust manifolds$60 Dump pipes $50 Heat shields $50 Turbo inlet piping $75 Clutch fan $20

The last set I sold in 100 % perfect condition went for $425 pair

Head sold and picked up. Make me a offer on the complete short block. You might be supprised. Want it gone Someone must want to rebuild a forged bottom end while keeping there car on the road

I know how rare these are and hard to find Found this while looking for parts $550 http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/nissanstageaw34m35/1 Thought someone on here will want it

Sorry, plenty PM's on the injectors. They are now sold

If you intend to use the r32 cradle you will need to fit offset bushes as the 4 mounting stud/bolts in the car different centres.

Auto or Manual stagea? Auto has 50mm wider rear track (cradle) than a manual Series 1 or 2, big debat which is better $10K bugdet will find a nice series 1, or cheap series 2 Series 1 has R33 motor, std auto. not as nice interior, could swap to a series 2 if wanted. 12mm front brake bolts Series 2 has neo motor, worth more, better looking interior, tiptronic auto, 14mm front brake bolts, different front end look, normally factory side skirts and rear wing, 1-3 years newer. Couple of cheap series 1's on ebay from $6500

Parts and price update Short block c/w crank, rods, pistons, cradle, oil and water pump, harmonic balancer. Needs rebuild std bore had water in no2 $575 Now $400 Sump $175 Sold pending payment Head c/w stock cams and valve train $650 Sold pending payment Cam covers and front cover, no coil cover $Sold Inlet plenum and throttle bodies complete No TPS$450 Now $400 Injectors and fuel rail $175 CAS $90 Now $70 Ignitor $90 Now $70 P/steer pump $80 Now $50 Alternator $70 Now $50 Air cond compressor $90 now $50 Coils and harness $125 Now $90 ECU wiring harness $250 Now $200 ECU stock $110 Now $100 Knock sensors $75 Now $30 Engine mounts $50 Now $25 Oil cooler $70 Now $50 Turbo's pair $350 Now $250 Exhaust manifolds $100 Now $60 Dump pipes $90 Now $50 Heat shields $90 Now $50 Turbo inlet piping $125 Now $90 Twin turbo piping $75 Now $60 Turbo Oil and Water Lines $140 Sold pending payment Clutch fan $50 Now $30

Sorry Noel, It will not suit a R34 Neo block. Neo heads have a smaller combustion camber than R33's

I had 3-4 text messages from him today Call him if you are serious. Simple

have sent you a Pm with contact details You will not be able to PM yet, need 10 posts

Australian master marine at brendale Expect to pay around $600-900 Meter starts form the time you get in the booth, so pre-mask up outside as much as possible etc. Booth is huge, so can do whole car and bolt on bits at the same time.

I end up using a complete series 2 manual stagea rear end. A bit hard to find I have have 19x9.5 +12 rims with 245/35 19 tyres and still have ample strut clearance (approx 10mm) WITHOUT the outer edge of the rim sitting outside the car Plus have the stronger 6x1 bolt drive shafts, but did have to change to fork bottom shocks and remove hicas rack and fit lock bar. A R33 GTS (non turbo) cradle does not have hicas, same as the S14/s15 cradle.

Nistune Gt3076 .82 IW 650cc injectors R34 gtr fuel pump Exhaust and fmic 245rwkw at 14.6psi (1 Bar) Hoping to get to 300rwkw with more boost (19-20psi) and tune.