darrinspencer

There was a stagea being built to have a 4.1 v8 turbo (maybe twin) target was 800hp The project has stopped to it being too hard to get registered I think he is still going develop the motor for race ski boats as those guy's normally have plenty of money

All R32 and R33 seats will bolt in R34 AWD only, so R34 GTR

I was have series 2 C34 front end to get rid off Nose cut $150 Bonnet $150 Guards L & R $85 each Condensor $40 Head lights L & R helogen $100 each High beam L & R $75 each Grille $50 Front bar cover $100 Reo $50 Indicators L & R $25 each Bonnet catch and support $60 All panels are silver Or the Lot $800 Open to serious offers for the lot In Brisbane, prefer pick up for large items If you want the lot and interstate there will be a $100 packing fee plus frieght costs (Stagman's series 2 should be coming up soon thru the damage car auctions in Brisbane soon, this should be enough parts to repair it) Pic's on request

Tring to buy a R32 GTR RB26 front cut, only probably is tring to find somewhere to store it for a month or 2 without the wife finding out!!! Any idea's Also bought some fancy brake fluid

I have done a fair bit of research in the few weeks on these as I need some 650cc or so The seimens deka 3/4 length only comes in upto 550cc The full length ones go over 1000cc Either can be used, just need to space the fuel rail to suit, plus the plugs are different Approx $70-75 each plus plugs full length are used in BA-BF XR6 turbo and I think LS1 3/4 length are from FG XR6 turbo and holden lS2 and LS3 The more expensive options Biggest nismo are 480cc, I just sold mine to bigger Blitz used to sell 525cc, I use to use these as well I think Sard make some

Sold Deposit taken

My auto stagea series 2 had 5x1. The stagea manual one I have now is 6x1 Both had the same diameter drive shafts There is 2 different tail shaft sizes as well. My car had a fairly heavy looking one and a I was also given a much lighter one, but thru it in the bin

Normally But it is nothing to serious, just a reason to get 8-12 stagea togather. I have no problem if you want to tag along

Date : Sunday 20-6-2010 Meet point : Coomera BP on north bound side of hwy. from 10.30am. leave 11.00am sharp Trip : Head south along M1 to Nerang, heading west to Cunungra and then north to Mt Tamborine and finish at the Mt Tamborine Brewery and cheese factory at the end of gallery walk Plenty time for the ladies to check out gallery walk etc. May stop along the way for a group photo I have made a booking for 25-30 people at Mt Tamborine Brewery and cheese factory joint in the beer garden area for 12.00-2.00pm but no real time requirements Bar meals $10-25. Undercover in case of rain http://www.mtbeer.com/index.html Will PM everyone who has registered there interest with my contact details etc. Hope you can make what should be a great day out

Pretty much ready to bolt up. I have been holding off because I was going to not use this plenum and buy a plazmaman instead, until I worked out the PM plenum will hit the bonnet with the rb30 in the future. Might try and get some done tonight

I normally do not read M35 threads. . . At least someone can buy it now

http://www.manheimfowles.com.au/find_buy/p...;rm=view_detail Someone may want a new project

http://www.pickles.com.au/damaged/vehicle/...0032072/lotid-0 This may interest someone. Parts only

No manual box Yes, keep AWD. Have to use a sump adaptor fitted between the rb30 block and sump No point going Rb30 and 300++ kw's in a RWD street car

A s14 craddle is the same width as the stagea manual cradle. The main difference is the S14,S15 and R33 GTS (non turbo) cradles do not have Hicas, so it is the best ones to use when reusing as much as possible of the stagea auto rear end. Generally you change it to get the narrower rear track so it matches the front end and you can fit better wider and lower offset wheels. Drive shaft length is shorter. Stagea have 3 different styles plus 2 different tail shafts. So use either skyline or s14/15 that suits your cars diff bolt pattern The reason the manual has the narrower track is nissan was saving money and reused the rear end out of r33 GTR's. The manual also has stronger drive shafts etc, hence nissan used these in manual stagea's Mike can fill in what he had to do to make this work.

If you have a series 2 Dayz front bar, do not give it away They are VERY sort after and worth as much as new dolphin copy bar I would not sell the front bar for less than $500 Side $200 pair Rear $200-300

Doing this at the moment. Generally put the bov between the the outlet of the fmic and the throttle body, so on the drivers side under the battery. Then you will need to run a pipe back to the inlet side, similar to a GTR setup. I have a spare GTR BOV for sale while you are at it.

I chased him up 2 days ago as well Stagman, we will get ours sent up togather to save postage.

If you can find one locally even in another state for not much more than importing go for it. I have used j-spec a few times to import. No fault of theirs but it always takes longer than you think and costs more. Do you really want to wait for a car, realistically by the time it is on road, 3 months and not test drive it before you buy?

I need the complete exhaust side of a rb26 head Manifolds, dumps, oil and water lines, drains, twin turbo pipe etc and maybe turbo's Either complete set or parts I have time on my side, so if you are planning on upgrading in the next month or 2 let me know

I need the complete exhaust side of a rb26 with or without turbos Need dumps, manifolds, oil and water lines, twin turbo pipe etc. Everything you remove to go to a single turbo setup

I have done a bit of a back flip, but after considering the issues with the different setups, I think the RB26/30 is the better/easier option. The main problems with the rb25/30 combo were 1. Extra block height and the inlet plenum fouling the bonnet. I really wanted to use the plazmaman plenum over the greddy style due to being able to retain the longer inlet runners. 2. Pushing past 300rwkw on a single turbo becomes a bit less drivable for daily use and probably need to go external gate which I did not want to do. Advantages of the the rb26/30 combo 1. Retain the rb26 inlet plenum, no need to upgarde, save money plus clear the bonnet 2. Power goal is around 350rwkw, so this can be achieved with small twin turbos and still look factory. My car does not need any more cop bait. 3. Cheaper to buy rebuild parts for the 26 over the 25. 4. The most important bit of all. Wank factor of a rb26. They look heaps sexier Disadvantage of the 26/30 combo. 1. Will need to rewire, change computer, mod exhaust and inlet piping By the time I sell off the rb25 and all the add on's, the $$ damage will not be too bad. Well that is what I am telling myself.

I am in no rush, but chasing a Rb30 motor to suit rebuild Must be either R31 or series 2 VL with oil feed and return. Will pick up Let me know what you have got

Just bought a R33 GTR head c/w inlet manifold and bigger cams Chase up a rb30 bottom end and turbo's later

Complete head and inlet plenum sold to me pending payment