darrinspencer

RWD stagea front = Macpherson strut design AWD stagea front = double wishbone

If I do not get my car finished for the end of May when it is entered for the qld sau drag day, I will borrow yours for a few hours I promise to only drive it from 0-400m about 5 times 4.33? What are stagea's normally? I would have assume yours would have had gtr diff gears after having the rb26 swap and r32 gtr rear end?

Thanks for the replys, some interesting thoughts there to consider Main reason for thinking of an engine upgrade is the stock internal rb25 will not last for ever pushing 300rwkw's I have all the supporting mods people have mentioned to make this power plus some, but the main limiting factor will be running high boost (18psi+) on stock internals and head gasket to get the best out of the gt3076. The other reason was for more torque, not just a few more kw's, so the reason for a rb30 bottom end Some of the problems with the taller rb30, looks like the plazmaman plenum could be too high, so may have to stay with the copy greddy plenum I have but loose down/mid range response due to shorter intake runners. So the rb26/30 comes into play. That way you will get the extra torque, have a low front facing plenum, can run some nice, not to big twin turbos etc

I am too lazy to be bothered typing an answer to your question. . . .

Why the Rb26 head over the Neo?

What would you say the power limit would be for a Nistune on an Rb25 before you would be to a full replacement ecu like Vipec or others

Keen to discuss engine options and peoples opionions and which is the best way to go with a 1750kg car Keen to build a new engine for reliabilty and handle more power First 3 things is to decide I think are 1. Purpose of car, ie daily street, track, drag, drift or dyno queen. 2. What are your power and torque torque 3. What you have already and can it be reused but made better There are four main Rb engine choices A. Series 1 r33 rb25 B. Series 2 R34 rb25 C. Rb26 D. Rb30 bottom end with the 3 head options I will start with what I want 1. 99% Daily street car with the very occasional drag, track or dyno day. 2. Car soon to be tuned to see somewhere around 300rwkw mark. Is this enough???, more torque and something like upto 350-400rwkw's maybe better 3. Rb25det NEO with stock internals with bolt on upgrades of Gt3076r .82 IW turbo, 650cc injectors, plazmaman inlet plenum, nistune ecu, fmic etc. Since there is somewhere around $7-8K in those parts alone that could be reused these this needs to be considered Apart from maybe upgrading to a bigger turbo GT35?? and still staying internally waste gated, I could reuse my Neo head, inlet plenum and injectors and exhaust dump pipe. May need an ecu upgrade as the nistune maybe pushed past its limit Have been reading a bit lately about wants needed for Rb30 bottom end and the AWd block needs to be taken into consideration. Few people have expressed the NEO head is a better option that the Rb26 head due to have VVT and larger valves and also has solid lifters like the rb26 head. The main thing the Rb26 head has over the NEO head is the ITB's for response. So should I go 1. Forged Rb25det NEO max 350rwkw's 2. Forged RB30 bottom end with Neo head, upto 400rwkw's and losts more torque 3. Complete Rb26 for the ITB's (and wank factor) 4. Rb30 bottom end with Rb26 head and twin turbo Want to start shopping for bits over time, so when the stock engine dies I will be ready.

$900-1200 is the normal going price for xenons I got lucky and bought some from a wrecker for $400 pair Have a search in the for sale section There was a pair of non xenon for $600 just 2 weeks ago

That is only partly true. Non turbo R33 Gts and auto stagea could be the same as both do not have hicas Turbo R33 gtst has hicas so not the same Plus you need to check the rear drive shafts as stagea's have 3 different types which effects the bearing sizes on the rear hubs

I just measured what I have I have a series 2 manual rear end I have a series 2 auto rear end And a manual SK rear bilstien shock Shock length from centre of bolt in fork to top of strut top is 685mm These next measurements are a bit rough as it was in the dark The measurement of the Auto rear end between the centre of the drive shaft to the centre of the bolt that the bottom eyelet of strut slides on is approx 55mm The measurement of the Manual rear end between the centre of the drive shaft to the centre of the hole in the hub that the bottom bolt for the strut fork is approx 90-95mm So the auto struts need to be approx 35-40mm shorter than manual ones I also had a look to see if you could swap the auto hubs (no hicas) over but you can't due to the hicas setup. Even if you find another hub from a R33 gtst with hicas, there may still be a problem with the bearing sizes as they are a few different sizes and styles. This should answer your original question

Maybe you should sell them for $450 and make a few $$ If these were genuine xenon r34 like in my car they would be worth over a grand. So what I am asking is cheap. I am in no rush to move them I also have a set of non xenon lights as well for $250, actually have a full front end series 2 if someone wants it Thanks for the $450 offer.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...gtr+brake+lines R33 GTR Brembo have 12mm bolts R34 GTT and GTR are 14mm bolts

I have spoken with Plazmaman a few times in the last couple of days. Looks like I might get one sent up in a "just tacked together" state for trial fitting, then send it back to get finish with any mods needed.

What model car? My layout is a bit different being a Stagea with r34 gtr front. How did you go fitting one to a R34 Rb25 NEO? Throttle body hit the fuse box?

Chasing a set of Rb26 cam and coil covers Offering $275 delivered to Brisbane or can pick up.

How do these go height wise with a rb30 bottom end? Do they foul the bonnet, plus they run pretty close the strut brace About to ditch my greddy copy install and use one of these Rb25 Neo with future rb30 bottom end in mind

2 Sets back up for sale. . . . Payment received from 8EZ and Pezhead

A bit too low Thanks

That is strange the wheel stud pattern will not fit without the spacers Are the wheels multi stud pattern, ie do they have 10 holes? Sell the spacers seperatly to the wheels Many people mod their cars and not worry about it being legal Not sure who would do that thou

The wheel sticker you have shown says the stud pattern is 5H 114.3 which is the same as the stagea, so they are they same stud pattern At a guess is your car a manual? 18x8 +30 will fit fine if it is a "auto" as the rear track is wider by 50mm than a manual If your car is a "manual" than it has the narrower track rear end, so the spacers will make the wheels sit out further so they fit (clear they rear shocks) and look better by filling the guards out Any spacer is illegal If you are worried about it, sell the rims and get a lower offset wheel.

Open to offers over $500

Since the price drop I have had a flood of pm's I have 3 and 1/2 sets to sell. I am keeping 1 BOV for my car Set 1 sold to Pezhead Set 2 sold to Mark/1979 Single Sold to 8EZ All Pending payment Last set still up for grabs Femno offer a bit low Waiting for reply back from Lukas33 Cheers

It is only a good upgrade for a gtst if you need it. If you want it to hold higher boost or yours is leaking these will bolt staight on, but the plum back pipe is slightly larger in diameter.

New pricing Single $70 delivered Pair with piping $140 delivered

I have a few sets of R32/R33 GTR factory BOV's Great upgrade for GTST's Can hold 20+ psi Single $90 delivered Pair with piping $160 delivered