darrinspencer

You may have a a few issues with the radiator support. How has it been done? I have everything you will need including a nose cut. Can frieght at cost (maybe $200-250) plus $100 packaging fee due to the amount time and packaging needed Complete front $1000

What front panels do you need. I have a full stock series 2 front end. Also what state is the car getting complianced in? For shipping parts etc?

Pic's of rad support? If it has the full R34 support, there will be a bit of time cutting modifing to get it to fit That lip is actually a one peice version of the factory lip and vspec lower diffuser. Good idea is to get some 50x3mm alloy flat bar and fix it to the under side and profile it to match the front curve. That way when going thru drivways etc it will scrape the alloy and not wear away the carbon lip.

Looks good. Nice to see all the genuine r34 parts have been used. The front bar reo is worth over a grand all up The peice of foam accross the middle alone is $150!! I see the carbon lip has a bit of battle damage. They hang fairly low. Mine sits at approx 70-80mm clearance from the ground. A bit too low. When do "plan" to have it all together?

Bought a series 1 dayz pearl white stagea at auction in Japan and was going to build that Within a week bought another series 2 which was a better buy and that is the car I have today. That was a impulse buy Managed to keep the second stagea a secret for 2-3 months from the missus

Plan is to turn the throtle body 180 deg and remake a adaptor plate from 10mm to clear the fuse box Just need to use a longer cable either r31/s13 or z32 and make a new mount on the opposite side of the plenum

Cheers I had a few more drinks last night and out the thinking cap on I will be turning the throtle body around like yours Duncan. Throwing away the throtle body adaptor and making a new one from 10mm plate to clear the fuse box Yesterday a bought a z32 300zx cable which is approx a foot longer which should work. How much longer is the R31 or s13 ones? I am using a series 2 R33 throttle body as the neo body has the provision for traction control. ie too long. Tring to reuse the hole I already have from the old fmic, so will be leaving the battery as is. Just went bought a die grinder to clean up the plenum. A few of the bolt holes to the head aren't cast very well.

Hey Duncan, need some urgent info on the inlet plenum Looking at the engine pic it appears to have no adaptor between the throtle body and the inlet plenum plus they have turned it over 180 deg so that the throtle cable does not foul the fuse box. To do this you need a longer cable. What cable did they use? Also the pipe between the intercooler and throtle body, where does it go thru the chassis? Thru the vertical section below the battery or have they done down thry the battery tray Can you post a few close up pic's for more detail

Have finally fitted the plenum but now the r33 throttle body hits the fuse box. In the R34 and stagea the fuse box is bigger then in a r33. Looking at different pleum options now Maybe plazmaman or the jun copy from Thailand unless some has a better idea

Just checked, 6x1 is correct Also pretty sure the auto (ie 50mm wider cradle) will have longer driveshafts or maybe longer half shafts Will measure them tomorrow to confirm

I think I need a electronic R33 GTR speedo sender to fit into a R32 GTR box. If you have one let me know or if some thing out out another nissan will work

That's right, the manual and 206RS and some factory optioned LSD auto's (my auto did) have stronger drive shafts which means the larger hub bearings that you mentioned. They should be the same as R33 GTR. Standard auto's should be the same as R33 GTST. You can tell by looking at the half shafts out of the diff centre The heavier ones (GTR) have 6x1 bolt pattern The lighter (GTST size) has 3x2 bolt pattern

Have you checked the rears? They may hit the shocks The fronts should work as they will have 4mm more inner clearance than R34 gtr rims 18x9 +30. I use to runs these with 245's Seriously, come and try my rims, 19x9.5 +12 with 245's. Then you can work from there

Remove the 1/4 windows from the inside the car using a sharp utility knife and slowly cut thru the glue and not damage the trims. When you get to the corners they usual have plastic locating pins that clip into the body for easy quick alignment and hold the glass in place until the glue sets. You will most likely need to cut thru these. I recently did a stagea windows and they are similar with the trims part of the window with a price of approx $700AU per side. R33 will be a bit cheaper. So take your time. The rear window can be done the same way. The exterior trim is seperate to the glass and has 2 parts. It has the outer mould that you can see and should pull out with some effort. they normally stretch and can break, so take your time. There is also a retainer that is double sided taped to the body. You can probably cut this out, clean it up and replace the double sided tape, or you may find you can just leave it on the car. I think the mould and retainer from memory was approx $250-300AU. Just take your time and don't over flex the glass

Just after the 3 floor pieces. www.transdirect.com.au for freight quote You can leave it at your front door and they will pick it up from there Should be approx $40-50 freight delivery to 4165

Arrrgh This might be of some use? http://vq30det.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1741 Also read the VQ bell housing is the same as an RB, so gtr box should work/boltup?

There is actually a C34 half thru development with a V8 vh41 being turbo'd (maybe twin turbo) 800hp torque monster. Will also have a R34 front and a half dry carbon body. If the owner gets time to finish it, it will be the utilmate C34 stagea.

Has anyone priced up buying a 2004-2005 manual stagea front cut from a importer? Might cost up to $5K Sell off the engine for $2-3K and use the rest Is it that simple? Reading the "modify auto posts" sounds like a bandaid fix for a problem that is still going to remain?

It should also have a large "letter" on it Like "H" or something You need to get the matching one

The 18x9.5 +38 WILL NOT fit on the rears. I am running the same width 9.5's but in +12 (sit a further 26mm out than +38) with a manual/260rs rear and they clear the struts by approx 10-15mm with 245 tyres. The amount of rear camber also comes into play Stick to the same width and offset rims front and rear that you can rotate them fornt to back. You need to get the offset right when tring to fit 9 or 9.5's in a stagea, as there is not much room if you keep them level or inside the rear guards When are you back in town? Come around and try my wheels for fitment Or send they wife around, get her to bring a carton

Pm me a price delivered to Brisbane for all the boot carpet panels

Good luck with the conversion. You will probably have it finished before mine LOL. Mine has been in bits for 3 1/2 years now. I was thinking of going rb26 as well, but leaning towards rb30 now. I think that with a neo rb25 head is the BEST option for a heavy stagea. Unquie1 (Brad) has his awd stagea running a rb26/30 in rear wheel drive with rwd sump. It can be done. What town do you live in?

I thought I would post an update. I had 3 reasons to change my rear to a manual/260rs version 1. My rear cradle was a bit rusty. Could have fixed it but could not be bothered 2. To reduce the rear track by 50mm to match the front end so I can run the same offset wheels front to rear 3. Fit the larger diameter 6x1 bolt drive shafts and mechanical lsd to handle the power upgrades. So I bought a manual rear end out of a wrecked stagea. When I got around to changing it over, I discovered that my car, originally a series 2 auto, had the bigger drive shafts. Basically it is the same as the manual rear end, but is 50mm wider in track. It had the 6x1 bolt half shafts. The tail shaft is also alot heavy than the standard auto version. I will also have to check the size if the bearings in the rear hubs as I know GTR's have bigger ones than the gtst version Not sure if the auto diff is mechanical, but could be? So I assume this rear end was a factory option?

I had a similar problem with my commadore (don't flame me) I own I pulled the swith apart and cleaned the contacts to remove grease with contact cleaner and gave them a bit of a sand. Problem fixed

Auto stagea's come with 2 different rear ends. Some have the gtst lighter rear end and some are optioned with the heavy stronger gtr/260rs/manual stagea rear end, but have the wider (50mm) rear track My car was originally auto and came with the heavier rear end and tail shaft option. Cheap plug. I have removed it from my car and no longer need it. Anyone want to buy it