darrinspencer

I need the alloy oil filter mounting block that bolts to the block and has the oil cooler I snapped the thread for the oil filter to screw onto. Need asap Can pick up if in Brisbane price with delivery thanks

Great work. I would love to see some close pic's of the bonnet hinge mounting. Also what front bar reo they used, if it has one and what/how they did the radiator support. Do you know if it was fitted by Masa or someone else. Get IM to to take pic's as they pull it apart Are you lucky enough to have a white stagea as well? Pm what you paid for it.

Ditto Nizzpro on the Gold Coast, but there might not be much left

Sorry Hugh, forgot to reply to your PM The Greddy plenums and the copy ones are made for a 80mm TB and the Q45 one bolts straight on. To use your R33 65mm TB you need to get a adaptor that fits in between the plenum inlet and TB. Greddy make them and you can get a copy as well You can get the copy one from autobarn, comes with all the bolts etc for $80 I think So you will need to use the 65mm gasket plus get the 80mm Q45 gasket or use gasket glue instead. You can see the adaptor in the pic attached.

My car is a series 2 c34 stagea AWD, so it uses the neo motor and the neo throttle body, but has no traction control from factory so nissan blanked it off. I had another look at the r34 acc valve. I think I can remake the plate but turn the aac valve 90deg so that air line points forward towards the throttle inlet pipe which will work well as it needs to be plumb in.

Did a trail fit of the plenum last night again and ran into a few problems. I can not fit the R34 AAC valve on as it hits the factory oil cooler on the filter. So I might have to go back to the R33 ACC and IAC. Anyone now where I can get the matching plugs for these?

So you actually improved her car, turbing it form a holden to a nissan. TJ - Any pics of the r34 front from IM I don't do facebook

Good to see you are Ok and have a new stagea coming I drove thru that intersection everyday Hmmmm. . . .I have a complete series 2 front end lying around

Tweakit sell the exact same GCG kit for LESS They buy them from GCG and resell it. When I mentioned this with GCG they said that is right, we prefer to deal with resellers than the public. So they charge more They only thing the kit does not come with is the inlet pipe. I have just fitted this kit and used a 4x3" reducer, 90deg alloy bend and a 45deg silicon bend onto the stock airflow meter and airbox location. Just need to get the BOV and engine breather pipe welded into the alloy bend.

Attached is pic of the r33 and r34 throtle bodays an their matching TPS Also a pic of the doggy spacer plate I made for the ACC valve

Bit of an update. Progress has been slow New turbo is in along with new manual rear cradle Currently have inlet plenum off and fitting a greddy copy along with detail and painting engine parts New wheels sitting there ready to go on. Rays GT-'c 19x9.5 +12 Still to come, paint and rebuild brake calipers, modify the exhaust and inlet piping and get it tuned and fit the evo 8 recaros That should be it until the engine blows and then decide on rb30 or rb26

I am using the R33 throtle boday and just swapping over the R34 TPS. Mounting is exactly the same. No need to sort wiring and find matching 2 plugs for the R333 TPS Same for the ACC valave. I have made up a 1/2 inch thich alloy spacer plate to fit the R34 AAC vale to the R33 mounting point No need to sort out the wiring and no need to buy the R33 ACC and IAC valve. Just need now to sort out the bigger injector o rings. I am also thinking of not using the 480cc nismo injectors as they will be close if not maxed out with the gt3076r Thinking about the ebay siemen 650cc kits that come with a new fuel rail and the insert adaptors to fit into the greddy inlet. win win

Have a look on the Bride japan site They show you how to spot the fakes There was also a thread on fakes in the forced section about 6 months ago with alot of info how to spot them

Get onto Ideal seat in Melbourne Recaro importer. They should have parts

I have done it a few times. Both with colour changes with leaving the engine in I just done my stagea from silver to ford breeze 2 pac. You can get to most places, once reassembled you have to look fairly hard. Hardest spot is down the side of the rails. Just spray some black from below if needed Remove as much as possible around the engine, radiator, abs, air intake, leave fuse box attached and put in a pastic bag and tape it up. Leave a/c cond in Probably a good days work to strip and rub down. Use cheap green washing up scotch pad and home brand jif to rub it back. removes all grease etc. Mask up and paint another day. Let dry and reassembly. If you get some extra hands, you could probably strip, rub back and paint in one day, then reassemly the next. That do it in one weekend You will have to mask CARFULLY the pink vin sticker. Dotars will not give you another one if you pull it off

Only manual stagea's have hicas I have fitted a manual stagea rear cradle to the rear of my car, so I have no need for it. My car was originally a auto. Even if it came with hicas standard, I would still be removing it You can have whole hicas rack for delivered for $40

I have just fitted a R33/R34 Hicas lock bar to the rear of the stagea The overall length of the lock bar is approx 3-4mm shorter each side so I am getting excessive toe out I have tried adjusting the toe out but have run out of enough thread on the tie rods to be safe. I might be able to fit some shims between the lock back end and the tie rods, but will need to check there is enough thread. Anyone else had this problem? Maybe stagea hicas units are a different width to R33/R34?

I have searched and read thru the DIY guide for R33's, but there is not enough info on RB25 Neo's with problems encounted and solutions So hopefully this thread will solve these issue's as it has been done before by others First I have a series 2 Stagea AWD, so I do not have traction control on the throttle body to worry about, but R34 owners will 1. Need to change the R34 throtle body to a R33 item. Swap over the R34 throtle position sensor as it is wired up different to the R33 item. Bolts straight on. 2. Neo's have top feed injectors and the r33 manifold is designed for side feed. Can you fit/buy or make inserts to suit the smaller top feed injectors? I have 480cc Nismo items to use. Have seen the ebay seimen injector kits for neo's and they look like they come with inserts for the greddy plenum. 3. Fuel rail will need spacers to suit the height of the top feed injectors 4. Need to use R33 ACC valve. These are wired up different to the R34 Neo item. How is this done? 5. Have trailed fitted the new inlet plenum to the head and it fouls the small steel vacumm line that runs behind the cam gear backing plate to the power steer plate. This will need to cut/bent out the way or a new line run form the plenum to the p/s pump. 6. For the R34 owners, what needs to be done about the traction control? 7. Any other issues I have missed?

I just replaced my rear cradle and spent endless days cleaning, rust treatment and painting the rear end on the underside of mine. Nissan was fairly good with sealing and putting underbody sealant from the front to the back end of the drive train tunnel, but around under the spare wheel is pretty poor. The doors are easily fixed or replaced, but the body is the main concern. It is probably safe to say 70-80% of C34's have door rust. Most people just have not had a look yet to realise. I would also check out local cars, as better bargins can be had and you can inspect them, even if you have to ship them from one side of OZ the the other Sell you mine for $40K

That for the update Micah I have changed jobs, so Andrew will no longer have my email. I will get in touch with him Cheers

I am keeping mine stock, just not into bodykits and mods

As per title After one rear strut top to suit C34 Stagea Thanks

Put a NISMO sticker on it People will pay $300 for it then!

Help, I have a stalker from 18-19 years ago What are you doing in the stagea section?

You can fit a spacer plate and longer manifold studs. I have done the same with a gt3076r which is the same spec's as the 3037. You will need ALL the supporting mods to get any gain out of this turbo choice. It would be capable of upto 300rwkw What other mods have you got and is your car manual or auto and what are your power goals? What is your budget? $1-2K, 3-5 or 5-10K?