darrinspencer

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1. There will be no change until you get it tuned 2. Assume 3-5 day turn around 3. Yes. Not hard. 10min job 4. You do not have to dyno tune straight away. The original factory map will remain and your car will run exactly the same as it does now. The benefits of getting this done, even if you leave your car totally stock, will enable a tuner to remove the factory over richness which will give more power and better fuel economy. As a minimum. I would not bother tuning a stock car until at least you have a 3" exhaust fitted. All other factory items should see the neo reach a max of 200rwkw's My car will be off the road another 4-6 weeks. I may be able to offer up my ECU in a change over basis for people that can not have their car off the road for more than 1-2 days. Could also maybe suggest to Matt to purchase a stagea ecu for this purpose and charge a small fee to cover the ecu purchase price??

Tim GTR He who dies with the most toys wins! So far, you are in the lead. I love your project idea for the V35. Someone needs to do it Hey Micah, keen for a road trip to Victoria?

Put me down for one as well. I have been talking with Matt for a few months. I had slightly beter pricing, but K Rudd was not making anything from it. Everyone that wants one needs to make sure their ECU has "JECS" stamped on the casing to be able to fit the draught board. I will be ordering mine setup for 480cc injectors and Z32 set by Matt, so at least the car will run enough to get it to the tuners. We have 5+ people. Lets get this going!

More like a auto cluster swap. Easy way to wind the Km's back maybe

I meet my wife there about 17 years ago. Sad, but true. Spotted a nice white series 1 c34 with QLD plates in Yamba (south of Byron) last week while on hoildays. Young guy driving it.

Give me a date. Will make sure I am not on holidays this time Plus will need to finish car again

When I did mine, I removed the inlet cam cover. The camshaft has a hex shape to be able to hold the shaft from turning with a big shifter. Not too hard to do.

Updates Just had a weeks holiday. Time to get back into it. I have put a deposit on a set of rays GT-c's in 19x9.5 +12 in gold. Pic attached. Plenty of dish Wheels are near new and only 12 months old. Just waiting for the seller's new rims tyo arrive form Japan. Need to get new tyres I have bought a complete rear cradle from a manual series 2, as my rear end is rusty plus with the narrower track of the manual cradle I can fit wider rims with low offset and do not need to run spacers on the front. Plus the added bonus of bigger drive shafts and factory LSD. Only down side my new bilsteins will have to be replaced to fork type. So a pair of rear eyelet shocks only 200-300k's old should be for sale soon. I have recently sold my cat back exhaust and have buyers for the dump and apexi turbo as soon as I get time to remove them. Hopefully this weekend. This will make way for the new gt3076. My replacement exhaust. HKS silent I bought s/hand is bent so It is not fitting. My fix it replace with a 3.25 or 3.5 inch to accomadate the hopefull max of 300rwkw. Will be painting and detailing the end bay as well. I see a new queensland cruise coming up in Nov. so now I have a dead line to meet. Just for something extra to do I have bought a small side project. 2004 CH lancer. Needs front repair and a new roof skin.

Pm what you think they are worth and post code for freight cost. Mine are for sale in 2 weeks, come with toyo near new tyres. Will post them to the moon if people want They are getting a bit hard to find in good condition, and are more expensive now, due to dollar, to import a set from Japan.

I have found one locally, so I can pick it up Closed.

I totally understand the different possibilities in strut diameter My car came first with non height adjustable KYB shocks. Then I put in Tein wagons which had the thread sleeve down the struct for height adjustment, similar to your second pic of the zeals (ihad the same ones in my R33, nice and light being alloy), and now I have Bilsteins which have fairly large bore diameter. Maybe for you and I to see eye to eye, need to measure our rear strut diameters to be able to compare clearance measurments.

Lets forget about the tyres for a minute. The 9.5 +20 have an extra 4mm clearance to the strut than my 9's +30 My rims have approx 12mm clearance to the strut with the car running fairly low at 325mm with no camber adjustment and they never hit. Now if you add tyres, depending what width they are, I use 245's on 9's which over hang the rim, the opposite to stretched, so the gap to the strut to tyre is like 6-8mm. No signs rubbing. I run sydneykids bilsteins, which I find too stiff with King springs which are around 4-4.5kg. If you run tyres as per your example, 235's on 9.5 rims they will be stretched, so the closest thing to strut will be the rim, not tyre. What ride height do call "slammed" How much negative camber? -3 deg+ I have not had my car for a wheel alignment yet, but I did check my negative camber on the rear by measuring how much they layed in at the top over the rim diameter. They were 27mm at 325mm ride height and approx 15mm at 340mm ride height.

Those 9.5's +20 actually have 4mm more inner clearance compared to 9's +30 gtr rims and they do not foul at all with 245's. 235 or 225 tyres would have more clearance. I would be more worried with the scrubbing on the outer lip, esp if you want to run realistic minimal negative camber

What offset? Will be tight on the rear

Thanks, but I have new bilsteins up front as well, plus need to be height adjustable. Might sell the complete f & r bilsteins, I find them too stiff. Preferred the Teins I had before

Auto RS4 has eyelet bottom on rear shock R34 GTT and Manual stagea RS4 S has fork bottom on rear shocks R33 or S14 rears will fit an RS4 rear

I loose $100 on a pair of struts, but gain bigger drive shafts and mechancial lsd Not too sure if I will break 5 bolt R33 gtst shafts, but not too keen to find out and have to spend more later buying the right gear

Hopefully tomorrow I will have secured a complete series 2 Stagea manual cradle. Should solve my problem. Just need to buy new rear forked shocks. It is a shame I just put in a set of new bilsteins in 200k's old. I am sure someone will want them

These wheels will hopefully be on my car in a few weeks time Rays GT-'c, 19x9.5 +12 once the new rear cradle goes in. 86mm of dish!!! Have some R34 rims for sale soon as well

R33 GTR Looking for a complete rear end cradle with diff, drive shafts, hubs, hicas, swaybar etc.. Do not need the brakes Prefer in Brisbane, will consider interstate.

Can be found in here, about page 5 or 6 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...Bu-t271736.html

Looks like I will be changing the rear cradle to the narrower type like the RS4 S or 260rs. This opens up a larger range of wheel options now. Bascially R33/R34 gtr fitment Looking at rays GT-c's in 19x9.5 +11 Face 2 73mm dish or 19x9.5 +9 Face 1 86mm!! dish Prefer the look of face 2 over face 1. This means I will not have to run spacers up front and have the same offset front to rear and can rotate wheels front to back. Win win all round.

If you use slip on spacers like those, you will need to replace the wheel studs with longer ones.

Area you going to remove the side and hatch glass and front windscreen mould? This cost me over $500 to get a windscreen guy to remove and replace the glas only Plus another $300 for the front and rear moulds Be careful removing the side glass. It is easy to damage the mould which is part of the glass. You can not buy the these moulds, you have to replace the glass as well. Approx $750 each form nissan. I posted the part numbers for the front and rear moulds are in the parts section. Fronts were in stock in melbourne warehouse, rear had to come from Japan. Only took 1 week to get after order. When removing the roof rails, they are stuck down with double sided tape. Take your time not to bend them Looks the good with those wheels