darrinspencer

Are you aware r33 Rbs5det has on/off cam timing and R34 Neo has variable?

MIKE is right, start with a wheel alignment and also check the caster arm bushes. They are oil filled and may have leaked. If you do go with some sort of camber adjustment, be aware that AWD and RWD stagea's have different front suspension.

I realised that as well, my response was more for BCK34 as he saked what style the bar is. MIKE have you worked out what re-spray colour your car is?

I am selling my genuine Dolphin rear bar and side skirts. The rear bar and one side skirt have had a recent minor repair but still need repainting I have removed theses from my car, currently painted silver, but will need a repaint Pick up from Brisbane, too big to post unless you organise Rearbar $250 Side skirts $250 Both $450

The front bar is Masa Motorsport http://www.masamotorsports.com/selection/m-34/

S/hand, no chance of finding Try CCubed, Andrew was working on a fibreglass copy.

Where do you find s/hand genuine alloy r34 gtr bonnets for $100. R34 GTT bonnets will not suit. Pretty sure r34 zenons are about $1600 EACH new. I would also question the fitment quality of copied Masa R34 guards from Viva. If they have not re-shaped them and just taken a mould from the original Masa guards they would fit even worst. I have a genuine set of Masa guards and they do not fit perfectly and will be scrapping them soon for some re-worked CCubed copies.

I am no good for the 28th Feb, 1st march. Have organised a 3 days house boat boose cruise My car looks like crap anyway

Might be able to come, need to sort the car out, have removed parts and not really driven it since the last cruise That was nearly a year ago. Still not painted either, I think I need to get rid of it. RB26stagea, have you got your new engine?

If it is not a rear disc off a R33, it must be off some other different car. Check the diameter, it should be 297mm. Looking at the photo and the backing plate diameter, it is no where near 297mm.

QWK 32 The pic you have shown of the front R33 caliper has a REAR disk fitted. It has "rear" written on the disk also you can tell by the diameter it is too small. That is why you are having offset problems.

I have a series 2 RS4 AWD I have used R34GTT front and rear calipers, disks and bolts. All bolted up perfect with NO mods needed. The disk to caliper offsets were perfect, no need to fit spacers. Bolts were the right length and diameter. R34 disks are 310mm, R33 are 297mm. The bigger R34 disks cleared the front backing plates, no need to trim The only mods were the the brake hoses. For the front I used the complete stagea banjo bolt and lines. As QWK32 mentioned, the banjo bolt is approx 2-3mm too long. I machined down the length so it did not bottom out in the caliper. There was still plenty of thread left on the banjo bolt so it does not strip the caliper thread. The other option is to remove the caliper flange nut SEAT in the bottom of the caliper, but I preferred to keep the calipers standard. For the rear brake lines, I used the R34 complete brake line that goes from the caliper to where the flex line mounts to the stagea metal hard line on the body of the car. R33 rear brakes are the same as R34. When mounting the rear calipers, they foul the metal backing plate. You need to trim 5-10mm of the backing plates to suit the new calipers. If you have a series 2 RWD, the front brakes are DIFFERENT to the AWD stagea. I have tried fitting my R34 brakes to Greenghosts RWD stagea and they did not fit. Can not confirm the exact details, but from memory the mounting hoses in the front hubs were to suit 12mm bolts, not the 14mm. Pretty sure this is where you can use R33 calipers etc. Best talk to Greenghost The rear brakes on the RWD where the same as the AWD stagea, so the R34/R33 parts will fit. The R32, R33 and R34 are all monoblac design and do not slide. As for wheel clearance, I am using r34 GTR wheels so there there is heaps of clearance, but I am pretty sure CHOOK is using R34 calipers with standard 16" stagea wheels with enough caliper clearance. Best check, otherwise you will be up new wheels as well. Hopefully this will clear some questions. First pic is a series 1 stagea caliper with banjo bolt The other pic is a r34 caliper (red one) with the flare nut. You can see the flare nut seat in the bottom of the caliper thread which is pressed in. I believe you can remove the seat by screwing in a screw and pull the seat out.

I have a Greddy one Has 2 wires the same as the apexi one, just change the plug $75 delivered

There is 3 different models of Teins for the Stagea. The most common ones are the "Wagon" version and have 4kg springs F & R. I have these and find them very comfy. The other Tein models have heavier springs and shocks giving a harder ride. The HKS will be probably be firm as well

They are available now, just not well advertised Steer the panel shop in the right direct, otherwise the insurance company will get the cheapest option they can. Your Dayz front bar should have a part number moulded in the back of it. make sure the quote includes the right parts. If you get to keep your old front bar, get a mould made of it and do all the sad series 2 owners a favour. Talk to CCubed (andrew) about getting a mould made or a R34 kit if you are interested.

Troy 0407645350

Yeah a mate of mine, Zoom auto imports It is a series 2 in silver!!

Hey M I K E You may want to check they are the same offset front and rear Looking at the the pics, the wheels on the right hand side of pic have less outer rim dish than the ones on the left. I think it is possible they are the same offset, but the front rims may have a higher caliper offset clearance Measure from the inside edge of rim to the inside face of the hub to confirm offsets

I have a genuine Masa pair for not much money if anyone is interested. Cheap copies are just not worth the effort. The savings made buying the copies are lost more than twice tring to make them fit

I have a set of plugs that are normally on the wiring harness I removed mine to fit R34 skyline headlights Is that the part you need or is it the globe holder you need?

R34 front is the way to go. I have done my car myself and had to learn the hard way. The best and easest option if you want to do it is to talk to Andrew from CCubed. He has developed a full kit for ease of installation and speed with little mods to the original car. Not sure of his prices, but generally budget for approx $4000-4500 for parts and then add approx $2000 for labour and painting if you can not do it yourself. My car is still to be painted, but I am thinking of selling it once it is completed. If you are interested, it is a series 2 converted to manual, silver, R34 GTR wheels, teins, exhaust, fmic, apexi BB turbo, full body kit etc etc. Pm me for more details and price.

Drug addicts hooked on ICE said the same thing, I will only use it once to see what it is like.

Your car is a series 2 Manual? I have a full set of manual door trims and rear seat Pm me if interested

Hey when you paint the engine bay, DO NOT remove the pink compliance sticker. Dotars will not issue a new one and if you try to remove it, they told me it will de-laminate and the word VOID appears, making the car un-registable again. When I painted my engine bay, I carefully mask up the sticker and removed the masking straight away after painting.

Use tis wheel offset calculator. Compare your current wheels to what you would like to fit http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp