darrinspencer

Also are you going to repaint the the donor car white including the engine bay before you refit everything?

Looks like the project is moving along very well. I have done 5 re-shells in the past, not too hard, just takes time Couple of suggestions 1 Get a heap of sandwich clip lock bags so when you remove a item, say the side skirts, you place all the bolts and clips taht are needed in the bag. It is quick and easy pulling a car part, but it takes 3-4 times longer to put it back together. 2. Have you decided how you are going the the clutch master cylinder setup in the new car? the autech has a vac assited master like GTR's and you need to recess them into the firewall. Or like most of us that have done manual conversions, we have used a standard master cylinder from a r34 GT and you jsut need to drill 3 holes and mount it. This may cause another problem with the clutch pedal and bracket mounting. You may need to buy a standard series 2 stagea manual bracket and pedal etc. 3. To mount the handbrake you will need to bolt it to the floor. You can either remove the bracket from the autech tunnel, but that might not suit who is buying the shell. You can buy a new bracket from nissan I think most of the part number are in the manaul conversion threads. Also they have to come from Japan, so it will take 2-3 weeks which might upset your schedule.

Not my car unfortunitly, but another forum members car. I do not want to steal too much of his glory It will be a turbocharged nissan V8, so it should have plenty of torque. Ps. I am only half mental. The full metal people are in Darwin

Hey Ken, how power you got? How quick is a 800-900hp V8 stagea going to be? Time will tell

Might be able to help out Andrew. I will send you a email.

It is a 25XT not 25RS, so no tiptronic auto. Leather can come in grey, cream or black. Steering wheel is standard nissan option

I have a bonnet catch and a pair of bonnet hinges if needed

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...ec-t237330.html

Bumping an old thread Saw a jet black H3 Hummer unmarked yesterday in Capalaba booking a SS ute.

Mike, grab the clutch and brake pedal and brackets, along with the master cylinder. You will need them for any stagea manual conversion.

Does it come with new or s/hand head lights, non zenon or zenon? Does it come with the custom brackets to mount the R34 bonnet hinges? any pic's? Do you actually have the kit here in Oz?

Just had a look at profile and the pic's of the Rb25det. That engine is NOT a Neo. It appears to be a r33 version. Did it come with a AWD sump?

Just to clear some things up to prevent you buying the wrong ecu You mentioned you are using a stagea rb25det. There is a few different types. They all use R34 ecu plugs Series 1 stagea uses a series 2 r33 rb25det and there is 3 different factory ecu's which are wired up different. Even thou they are R33 motor's the ecu plug is a R34 rb25det. Series 1 stagea's use r34 power Fc due to the plug style, but require wiring mods, depending on which model ecu you have Series 2 stagea uses a R34 rb25det neo motor and r34 ecu plug and a r34 power fc will plug straight in and work in a stagea, your car being r32 will probably need some wiring mods. Mainly power feeds etc. Series 2 stagea came in AWD and RWD versions with the r34 rb25det neo motor. The RWD has the traction control throtle body and the AWD version does not. This will help you determine which series 2 stagea neo motor you have. Have a search thru the stagea section as there is few power Fc threads with the issues encounted.

Budget $4.5k in parts or drive in drive out for approx $7k or buy mine and paint it

R34's $1500 ono Have a look in the stagea classifieds

I had a series 1.5 1995 R33 gtst and tried to fit a series 2 R33 wheel. It was approx 3 years ago, so hard to remember, but it did not work. One of them has a extra electronic black box mounted in the wheel and the other one did not. So the air bog would not work. I think if you have a 1.5 1995 you are stuck with using the same wheel from a skyline or other nissan of the same year

I had a set on my r33 and a set on my Stagea Perfect fit etc The mirrors on both sides of the car are convex. I think the drivers side is suppose to be flat by law. Pic of my old R33 and my poor stagea, still not painted

Series 1 Stagea uses a R33 motor which has a 2 position inlet cam only. It changes at a certain rev range around 3500-4000 rpm Series 2 stagea uses a R34 neo motor which has a fully variable inlet cam thru the rev range. The sump adaptor should work.

I have a series 2 RS4, used R34 GTT brakes allround complete with the R34 bolts. No problems.

Make sure you get the engine checked. Do a compression check and leak down test, esp on a 10+ year old Rb26. Could save you thousands in the long run. Also, check the VIN to be sure, I know of one black fake with twin sunroofs. . . . . .

This may be a bit late http://www.avoturbo.com/avoshop/index.php?cPath=170_178_204

Still have the filter $50 delivered

These will not fit your car, fronts or rear The softer more comfortable teins are the "Type Wagon" coilovers 4kg f & R springs and softer dampeners in the shocks than HR's.

Do a search of the stagea section I have done the conversion Will set you back approx $4500 in parts plus labour and painting My car will be for sale soon series 2 manual etc

Buy the owners manual in english version here http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/ID=216...uctdetails.html Need more requests for the workshop manual in english version here http://www.jpnz.co.nz/afawcs0131171/CATID=...uctdetails.html