darrinspencer

It has been noted before that there is 3 different versions of series 1 ECU with different pin outs Do not assume they are the same are similar I used www.repairmanual.co.nz Cost me $10US to get my series 2 stagea ecu pinouts translated Took 2 weeks.

On series 2 neo (not sure about s1) there is 2 pipes connected to the power steer pump. One line connects the the intercooler pipe which runs between the intercooler and the throtle body. There is a second line which runs behind the timing belt cover and connects to the inlet plenum near the fuel reg I had mine disconnected for a while when I fitted the fmic as the kits do not come with the extra nipple in the intercooler line To be honest I did not fell much difference, but I did only drive it for a few hundred k's like this. I then fitted a new nipple to the intercooler pipe and hooked it up again. It most be reading boost pressure, so when pushing the car, ie on boost, there must be a change to the power steer feel by operating a pressure relief solinoid on the back of the pump. That is my guess.

$8500 http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/engines.php

Mitch I would start checking where the wiring has been cut and the plugs changed to suit the r34 headlights from doing the r34 front end conversion Might be a bad soilder joint etc

Attesa has its own computer, seperate to the engine ecu. I think it will need some feeds form the ecu Talk to Brad, user name unquie1, his old user name is cruiseliner, the guy who wrote the diy section He has done it all before.

There is a bit of a DIY section here. It has been done before. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...al-t106465.html I have only done a auto to manual conversion and 34 gtr front end, but not motor.I still have the rb25 in mine. I did consider the motor at one stage when a 260RS front cut and rear end was offered to me at a good price.

Yes, you need a adpator plate If you are serious about a 3ltr bottom end, a mate has one aready machined and forged pistons etc, ready to assemble It was a good price from memory and he is full of knowledge, as he has already done one his R32. Pm me

Also the rear window and panel was from another car. It looks like it can wind down, you can see a window winder in the interior photo. Looks like the rear tailgate can hinge as well.

I guy I work with has a Merc 560SEL 89 model. Car is in now getting converted to gas. Cost is $3000, the government rebates $2000 at the moment. So you are out of pocket $1000. Unleaded in QLD is $1.50, gas is $0.70 so that saves you $0.80 per litre He uses currently 80L per week of unleaded, which will save him approx $64 per week. So he will get his $1000 back in 16 weeks! LPG does not get the same economy as unleaded, so that will need to factored in. So it may take a bit longer to get his money back, but definitely under 6 months and worth considering

Esp when the supercharger gets fitted!

Yep Now in a R32 GTR Seats are SOLD.

Check this out for ute conversions. A friend of a friend owned this car from new paided approx $260K for it with extra's and then sold it to Stuart Appleby (the golfer) who gave it to a shop to convert it to a BMW M5 ute. Check out the attached site. Great detailed pictures of the work involved. Massive effort! http://www.m5ute.com

Need to remove the top of the inlet plenum to get access to the injectors

No Still had 10-15mm clearance to the inlet plenum over

I just sent you the same info via PM I took one of my old injectors and the new ones and the fuel rail to a mobile injector guy and got 12 new orings to suit, cost me $20 on a sunday. There was a 6 "green" thicker round orings and 6 black cyclinder shaped orings used. You need to remove some of the smaller orings that come with them the blitz injectors I have seen the blitz injectors on Yahoo japan for sale and come with additional orings I had them in for approx 2000k's with no problems. I have since returned my car back to stock and sold them No other mods needed. the plugs go staight on. no need to use the supplied plugs. Fit the spacer between the manifold and fuel rail. I did need to use longer bolts

I have the flex plate

I had one approx 11-12 years ago. Great little car. Uses the same floor pan as a N14 pulsar, suspension interchangable, motor etc. The roof can leak being a targa, and considering they are now 17-18 years old the rubbers could be getting a bit tied. Get the NXR not NX, has more features and bodykit etc.

I have a set of the stagea centre gauges $50 Brisbane Note they are different to skylines

Still for sale 2 days to go on EBAY

Direct bolt in for a R34 gtr R34 GT I believe 1 mounting hole needs to modified, same as fitting them to a S13 or S14 But I have not tried it.

There is currently only approx 4-5 R34 fronted cars in Australia All on the east coast If you do decide on one, I have a series 2 silver with converted manual for sale soon.

Now listed on ebay, bid or make me a offer

1-My series 2 came with 2 cats. The car was complied at IMSHE on the gold coast. It had the standard large cat like all skylines and stagea's, but it also had a additional smaller cat that looks like a same hotdog resinator. It was mounted in the down pipe section between the normal cat and the turbo. That is why you may have not seen it when you looked under the car. It possible if your was complied at a different shop they may have not done it. 2-I will explain what I went thru to get a dump pipe. The first one I tried was a older version of the am performance split dump pipe. It fitted but had clearance issues with the waste gate pipe resting on the a/cond line, so it would eventually burn thru. The lastest am performance pipes have changed the design to have the waste gate pipe on the other side of the dump which would give clearance to the a/cond line. At the time and had already spending $350 buying the am pipe from another forum member the JJR split dump pipes came on the market and a cheaper price of $250. I spoke to JJR at the time with agreement I could return the pipe if it did not fit, as they had not tried one yet to a stagea so they sent me one to Brisbane. When I fitted the pipe up it hit the floor just prior to the cat. I was prepared to cut and modify it, approx 1 hr job, but after inspecting the quality of the flange to turbo, it was badly twisted. So I sent it back. I then bought a X-force bell mouth s/s pipe from UAS as they were very helpful and had been thru this problem before. It fitted pretty well and only fouled the floor where the gearbox cross member bolts on. I took approx 3mm off the end of the cross member and had to hammer the floor approx 5mm in where the lump is in the floor for the cross member mounting point is. Now it had enough clearance and never hit with engine movement etc. Cost was $350 at the time The new JJR bellmouth pipe for $199 appears to be a exact copy of the x-force pipe, they probably come out of the same chinese factory. These should fit, even thuo JJR has said no. The quality if the x-force pipe was very good and had a 10mm flange to the turbo. The JJR split only used a 8mm flange which was the cause the twisting duing manufacture process. JJR was tring to get this recitified but can not say this has happened. Beware with all the split pipes that have splitter pipe welded on is only good for stock turbo's. When you change your turbo to a hiflow or larger aftermarket turbo (ihave a apexi turbo) you will need cut these off and enlarge the inlet hole. With a bell mouth you do not have this problem. Just to clarify, series 1 and series 2 stagea use the same R33 dump pipe, and do not use R34 pipe. Hopefully that clears some of the confussion for you

The side idicators in the front guards are easy to remove. Just pull backwards on them and the front end should pop out. They just clip in. There is some info in the cosmetic section on how to remove lenses Basically need to put head lights in a low temp oven to soften the glue and pull them apart. If they have any clips remove them first.

The correct stuff to use is windscreen sealant. It does not dry hard. Not hard to get