darrinspencer

Hang too far out the guards for my me

Front doors need painting to match front, plus they have rust Rear doors have minor dents and 1 rear 1/4 Both f/g side skirts and rear bar have cracks Only panels lift are roof and hatch. Plus I want it to be perfect for the new owner, whoever that is. Do you think the fibreglass reo will be strong enough?

Ok Where is that search button again? I am new to these forums!

Has anyone bought or thought of buying a V35 GTR now in Japan and bring it back with them in 12 months time as a personal import? Obviously you would have to live in Japan for 12 months to do this Anyone know of someone planning on doing this?

JJR split $250, hits floor along side gearbox. If you do a search I had a thread showing the reason why Bos $420 s/s CES $550-650 X force s/s $350 from UAS or maybe $330 JJR I ended up with the x force

Justjap split does not fit, hits floor, quality not as good Bos importing and CES split do fit, but cost more, good quality X force bell mouth fits, good quality bell mouth produced more kw approx 7-8kw on a hks GTRS on a neo stagea, over a split dump.

Brycey, Get Andrew to make them. Will be cheaper and quicker if we get a few sets, plus he can do carbon.

1. Boost gauge not need if you get a electronic boost controller, as the tell you what boost you are running 2. With the mods you are talking about, use a aftermarket drop in panel filter in the air box. will work better as you will not be sucking hot air from engine bay 3.BOV not needed unless yours is faulty. If you want the sound with a atmo bov, you will get stalling problems with factory ecu. 4. FMIC, R33 or R34 fmic kits fit fine, no need for a stagea specific one unless they are the same price. 5. Best get a turbo back 3 inch and hiflow cat for best results, opposed to just cat back. Can only get R33 gtst dump pipes and not all of them fit. No one makes Stagea specific dump pipes. 6. MV auto shift kit. They are in SA 7. get a good EBC, holds boost better then bleed valves. Do not run more than 12 psi and turbo will last if in good condition. The ECU will go into R & R. ie over rich, cut timing. Will need a piggy back fuel igition computer like safc or e-manage etc on auto's. If your car was manual, you could go stand alone ecu

No T3 flange

Pretty sure the R33 version has sat nav in it. Not sure about the stagea one.

For it to have the rs four front end, it must have the 4wd front suspension. Have a look at the front hubs and see there is or was front drive shafts. Also please confirm the chassis number stamped in the fire wall. WGC or WGNC? I am very interested to see what you find. I have a theory why, but will not say it yet. Your car has the traction control fitted to the throttle body which the 4wd neo does not, but I assume the RWD does?

Art, What happens when it is raining and driving at 100k/hr? Wouldn't water get sucked into your airbox? That is why the factory bonnet has a rubber that seals against the radiator support.

There is something very strange with your car Those strut towers in the engine bay are 4WD not rwd Attach below is a pic of a series 2 RWD strut tower. Totally different The blue tag in the engine bay can be easily swapped from any car The chassis number stamped in the fire wall is the one to go by, but the blue tag should match. Is it WGC or WGCN???? And those pics of the front strut is a 4wd coilover. I could be wrong, but something does not look right with the strut towers.

If that is a pic of your front suspension, then your car is a 4wd not rwd! What is you chassis number, soon tell if it is a 4wd or not, or some engine bay pic's as the 4wd and rwd have different strut towers or check to see if you have a front drive shaft That tein coilover is for a 4wd model with the eyelet on the bottom of the strut The pic below is of a factory RWD front strut, and as you can see they have a totally different struct that clamps to the suspension. Tein have 2 models for the stagea. HA and "wagon". The HA are stiff and made for lower ride heights, something you do not want. The Wagon's which I have in my car sit more than high enough and are very comfy as they only have 4kg F and R springs which is approx 25% more than standard. Very simialr to the whitelines. HA have something more like 8kg. Your buttons on the steering wheel may not be working because you have turned them on. There is a button with a steering wheel on it on the centre console that turns the steering wheel on and off. I have the same Impul front seats and they are quite comfy but firm. Talk Brycey into buying your seats and then him and I can have very similar R34 fronted stagea's.

I fitted R34 GTT front and rears and used the R34 master and booster. Bolted straight in and works fine on my series 2.

Some things need to be looked at before pulling it apart too much With a front hit like that, the RH strut tower could be slightly pushed up or back and if the hit was more from the side the front end could be pushed sideways slightly Best do some measurements, front to back, side to side and diagonally and vertically if possible If you find it has moved, then you will need to put it on chassis aligning machine at any panel shop. Once it is squared back up, then you can repair it. Sometimes it is best to leave the motor in while re-aligning the front. Best talk to a panel shop and go from there. I am no panel beater, but have done similar and worst repairs about a dozen time before.

I only have the painting to do, getting complete car resprayed except for the roof and hatch. I have been concentrating on the mechanical side of things first. Do not really want mechanic's/tuner working over a new paint job. Hopefully about Febuary it will all be finished and I can drive it.

Brycey, When you finish yours, you can come and finish mine You will have yours done in 2 weeks, mine has been nearly 18 months!

Has been covered before in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...&hl=brother

What about a series 1 for $7500 no reserve ebay

Only drive my car one day, then put a manual gearbox in it. Never really had a chance to use it.

There is a set of front and rear for $1000 on ebay

Cheap ass model with no tipronic Why bother, there are plenty of series 2's with tipronic around for the that money.

To answer your questions All 96, 97 series 1 stagea's are auto from factory, so you can not replace the computer as it stuffs the auto gear changes, need to use a piggy back You can fit 18x9 +30 wheels on the front and rear. any 4wd stagea must keep the same rolling diameter tyres front and rear, otherwise it will stuff up the 4wd system The previous comment about all stagea are fwd, not true, only the RS4 is awd, you can get a rwd version, but they are less common.

If I was it upgrade my RS4 diff and driveshafts, what parts do I use?