darrinspencer

Have a look on car sales There is someone with a R34 GTR who wants to trade with a Evo 9 http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...amp;Make=NISSAN

So what is the final parts needed? Diff? Output shafts? LH and RH axles? Anything else?

Any updates? Have you had any offers?

Attached are saome pic's The stagea pump is 38mm dia and 90mm long (mainbody, not including the plastic plug bit) R34 GTR pump is 55mm dia and 105mm long As you can see there is a big size difference. I can mount the GTR pump with sock in the craddle, but no hope of fitting the lid on Does the series 1 stagea pump just clip to the bottom of the tank with no anti starvation/swirl baffles around it? If it does, then the series 2 lid probably is not that important. Chook, I did see somewhere (maybe on nengun or greenline site), the Sard bumps are Bosch rebadged. Answer to your question in regards to which flow rate, get a pump to suit your power goal. A pump that flows way too much can have a negative effect, as the excess fuel gets returned to tank and gets heated by the engine bay in the process

Exactly Why would someone strip a $60K car? If the previous damage was that badly repaired before, and you need to recify it, you surely could not make any money tring to rebuild it for profit

Here is a pic of a R32 GTR pump and cradle. I would have to end up doing something similar

I removed the factory fuel pump from my series 2 and tried to fit a R34 GTR factory pump. I had a bit of a search and all threads on pump upgrades are for series 1's. They have a different mounting cradle compared to the series 2 Here is a thread with pic's of a series 1 cradle http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t176653.html Below is a pic of the series 2 craddle. The factory pump is very small, approx half the size of the GTR pump in diameter and length. The facory series 2 pump mounts inside the plastic box, which works like a swirl pot to prevent stavation. To get the GTR pump to fit, the lid would have to go and a bit of cutting need to the base to get the pump to fit partly in to hold it in place. I can get the series 2 pick up sock to fit the GTR pump and sit at the bottom of the craddle so it should work. Can anyone see a problem with removing the lid altogether. Could maybe end up with some fuel starvation on a 1/4 tank around corners?

Pretty sure the R34 GTT rails are different to all R32's, r33's and R34 GTR.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t191363.html

Is it complied?

JMS has a pair of R32 GTR for $650

By the time you buy some cheap seats and then rails, you are better off with factory GTR seats Otherwise spend more and get some s/hand recaro, bride etc. Even if you find some comfy cheap seats, most have the same type of mesh fabric which will need replacing in 6-12 months. That makes them not so cheap after all.

I have previously bought some cheap ebay seats and some Drift seats form Autobarn. The ebay seats never made it in the car, poor quality and I used the driver Drift seat for 1 month Comfort was OK, not great, but the fabric was starting to show wear and starting to come apart at the seams. The fabric is pretty commonly used on the Drift and SAAS OBX etc. So I sold them all and paid $1600 for a s/hand set of Garage Impul seats and have no looked back You get what you pay for.

SOLD!

Brycey My car is or was exactly the same When I did the front engine conversion, I repainted the engine bay. I picked out the seam sealer, treated the rust and replaced the seam sealer. you would never know. I found the seam sealer was not applied correctly at the factory. They had not covered the seam totally, allowing moisture to get in and start rust. I found mine to be just surface rust. I also had some spots behind the strut towers aswell. You may have to strip the abs unit and brake lines and repaint like I did. I also have surface rust under rear aswell like yours. I have not attacked this yet. I would clean it up, treat any bad spots with converter and the rest hand brush on rust kill paint and then cover with under body sealant. Also if you repaint your engine bay, DO NOT REMOVE the pink compliance sticker. If you do a big "VOID" appears when it delaminates and the car cannot be re-registered. Also Dotars will NOT reissue a new one. I phoned to check with them and that is what they said to me. I had to carefully mask it up and paint around it.

URAS What is the quality and performance between the 525cc Blitz and 480cc Nismo's like? My car has a Apexi Ax53b70 p25, Tomie 260deg type B poncams, power Fc etc. One forum has a claimed near 300RWKW with this same turbo on a r33, but I would have thought 250rwkw to be more realistic. So either injector will/should flow more than enough. The Blitz injectors flow more (more safety factor) and cost less than the nismo's, but the main question will they perform aswell as the nismo injectors?

You sure? $1080 a set verse $699 Big difference of $381 These are the next thing on my list.

Slide performance does the 525cc Blitz for $699 set delivered

Are the GTR axles a direct fit. I thought the stagea had a longer axle on one side???

Will go to ebay tonight, paypal avail if you have no cash Need cash for car respray

Try this mob They are in Moss street across the road form autobarn http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...A:IT&ih=003

You can comply V35 skylines after 11/03 with non turbo vq35 engines, 2004 and 2005 models, so vq35 stagea should be possible You will probably find it is the turbo vq25det that does not meet emissions after 11/03, but do check, I maybe wrong (but that is not very often LOL)

22K for a stock manual sounds fair What about a S2 manual with approx 400hp and r34 GTR front and wheels and list of mods which cost over $25K Sell for $30k, pm me. No trade

If you want a Stagea S2 loom and ECU try Andrew http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t178468.html

I have converted my S2 to a manual and the AT light is still on