Adam91

Definitely go a twin plate copper mix. Drives like factory, factory feel to the pedal. Clamp force is like grandma holding her handbag in Redfern, and they’re quieter than you think. Mine will be up for sale soon, but could do with a freshen up seeing as it’s close to 6 years old with a fair few track days/drag nights up its sleeve. She won’t suit my new built gearbox 🙃

I’m switching from a nismo comp spec to 9 inch dcs sintered twin plate shortly. Planning on going 26/30 later in the new year pushing well over 500kw. The nismo has been great. Is holding 360kw at all 4 well and has been in for the last 4 years on the same power. The nismo is perfect for the street in a standard car as it feels like stock. Only down fall is the nismo is crap for drag racing. I’ve done about 25 passes on sticky tyres and it’s starting to get really worn out and very high take up point. Last drag meet I did, slipped it a bit too hard getting used to the new surface at the creek and it got too hot and couldn’t change gears until it cooled down, and also cost me a starter motor as it locked up from all the material. Plus the novelty of a lightweight flywheel is wearing off too

I don’t know about maxxecu but you can buy or make a mounting bracket for the haltech elites that mounts under the glovebox. From what I can tell the maxxecu and elite seem to be similar is size as far as google images go. Easy enough to make a bracket to suit out of some aluminium sheet

R32 rear view mirror and drivers side boot trim?

Test for 12v at the main switch plug, test for 12v at the reg motor plug when pressing the window switch with a multimeter, if ok, put power to the window reg. My bet is the window reg motor or bad main switch 🙂

Wtb r32 rear view mirror asap

Thanks man, that is actually my plan B. Was hoping someone might know someone and I’ll buy direct. Otherwise if there is interest I’ll get a dozen made up from a fabbie and move them on. Every gtr I’ve worked on has atleast some signs if not major leakage from the top of the box so I’m sure people will be in need of a solution 🙂

Has anyone found an Australian company (or someone) that remakes these unicorn gearbox baffle plates at all? It goes into the top of the transfer case or gearbox to stop oil flicking out of the gearbox. I’m on my third shifter boot in 8 years and it’s starting to get really annoying, no idea why they were left out and sold as an option from nismo which is now discontinued. I have found a few companies overseas that sell them but I’d rather keep my money in the country and not have to wait months for something so small in the snail post. I’ve been doing the hose clamp on shifter boot since the first replacement boot and it’s now getting rediculous. Surely someone has some info on either a plate or a 3D printed replacement in aus 😀

Go back to basics man. Compression test. A constant reading is good, a 30 psi or more difference between adjacent cylinders is bad. Disconnect one injector at a time and reconnect until you find the bad cylinder. A good cylinder will run rougher with the injector disconnected. The bad cylinder will do nothing with injector disconnected. Then check for spark. Use a gap tester or remove a spark plug on each cylinder. Don’t forget to remove the fuel pump fuse if you pull the plugs to test. if all that checks out ok, check for vacuum leaks and injector wiring. if you’ve pressure washed it you will probably have water somewhere simple, usually in the dizzy cap or spark plug tubes 🙂

Price drop. $250

Hey guys I’m selling 4 r35 coils in great condition. Surplus to my needs as I’m going a different direction with a build im working on. Great option for sr20s and RBI’s or buy another 2 and ditch that 25 year old set of coils and igniter on the RB. Happy to post. $300 plus post for you guys, have them listed on gummie too but for more because time wasters. Generic photo because I’m lazy 🙂 located central coast nsw

Yes the first pic shows which wires to bridge to make high beams come on with the low beams without dropping the lows out (just like normal cars). Would recommend bridging the wires at the back of the plug (under the steering wheel) with heat shrink rather than the paper clip trick shown in the picture I provided

It’s all in the wiring from factory. They were designed to dip the low beams off with high beams on. Just bridge some wires under the steering wheel and off you go. Best to replace the headlight switch and add 2 relays to divert the current away from the contacts in the switch and directly to the headlights (hard wired to battery and use the original headlight positive wire as the relay trigger) much better light as they will get a full 12-14 volts and and less stress on the switch contacts as there is no massive current draw

Thanks man, yea it is a 40 micron speedflow filter

Honestly just do it all Teflon hose the first time. If you plan on using e85 it will deteriorate the rubber hoses and you’ll forever be changing them. Unless they are e85 rated hose, you will have problems. Plus braid is much neater. reason for twin feed rail is the rail and reg I bought came with -6 fittings and I didn’t want to stuff around with adaptors trying to make everything -8. No real gain if single -8 entry, twin -6, etc. Just looks tidy