guppy

Hi, can someone measure the distance between the bolt centres for the two mounting bolts at the top an r33/r34 gtr strut top? My new struts have arrived and the bolt centres are the same for both the front and rear struts, but from photos I've seen on the net they look like they should be different. thanks

can get nylon-tipped grub screws so should be ok: http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/partslist/socketsetscrewsnylontippedalloysteel/socketsetscrewsnylontippedalloysteel/all/1/

yeah the grub screw on the thread was what I was worried about. will see what I can find.

OK thanks Richard. Do you have an opinion on the different types of nuts for the threaded sleeves? I think I'd prefer the two locking nuts as opposed to the single nut with what appears to be a grub screw to lock the nut onto the sleeve. But most of the threaded sleeves I come across on the net are the latter type.

I imported an R34 GTR V-Spec2 last year and it came with HKS Hipermax 2 suspension fitted. The left rear shock has blown a seal so I'm going to replace the suspension. Did a search and read through this topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/ Need people's advice/experience. My plan is to get Bilstein B6 shocks: Front part No. 24-021074 (old part no. B46-2107) Front part No. 24-021081 (old part no. B46-2108) and: ISC rubber mount strut tops to suit 2.5" spring Sleeves to suit Bilstein shock (A1 racing, part no. A1-12451) 2.5" lower perch to suit sleeves (A1 racing, part no. A1-12460) bushes & washers to suit I'm not sure what spring rates or lengths to use yet. Based on what other people have used, and the fact that the BNR34 is heavier, I'm guessing 325 lb/inch front and 275 lb/inch rear? And will these spring rates work OK with the Bilstein shocks or will I need to have them re-valved? As far as the spring lengths go, I figure I'll get the shocks all assembled then work out how long they need to be. For the bump stops, where do I get them from so I can cut to suit the block height? And is 30mm about the right measurement to avoid block height occurring? And excuse my ignorance, but what fixes the sleeve to the shock? I see mention of having to have grooves machined in the shock body to accept a circlip but I can't picture how this works. Where's the best place to order the shocks and springs from?

bump

I've got a Nissan Elgrand E51 Owner's Manual and Service Booklet (both in Japanese). Free to anyone who wants them - otherwise I'll chuck them in the bin.

i just got a vs2 in from japan (it's being complianced now). my original budget was $65K, but it will probably cost a little over $70K. I had a vs2 inspected over east that turned out to have had welding done to the chassis rails, and rang up about another one on carsales but wasn't satisfied that the seller was trustworthy... i reckon there was only about 3 or 4 stock vs2's at auction in japan in the 4 months i was looking for one. anyway good luck with your search!

i've been looking for a v-spec II for 3 months now and couldn't understand why there was nothing coming up at auctions in japan, when there were cars here for about $50K. i got my broker to inspect one that was advertised here and it turned out to have had welding done to the chassis rail. have bid on an m-spec nur and a v-spec II nur at auction in japan in the last week and couldn't understand why they were more expensive than the ones advertised here. now i know why. it's a bit dis-heartening.

as per title, on japanese auction sites, what does "Status: Non auction" mean?

yup that's it. a mate just blew the turbo on his fj20, so if he doesn't buy it, i will. what's your phone number?

in the middle somewhere. near the oil and water inlets/outlets. just look for a shiny bolt-head that doesn't seem to be doing anything. take a photo if you think you see it and i'll point it out

mine is. easy way to tell is there'll be a grub screw which holds the bearing in place. have a look. 99% sure R32 RB20 turbos are all ball-bearing. R31 RB20 turbos are bush-bearing. i've had both. RANT MODE ON: seems like here and nissansilvia there's always peeps who shoot their mouth off about stuff. just cos they pay a mechanic to work on their car for them doesn't mean they know anything. <_<

is it an R32 ball-bearing turbo?

yep thanks Ken for getting it done quickly, and despite all the issues with it, not giving up on it like another (admittedly Webers) tuner. (in said tuner's defence tho, the cut-and-shut sump was leaking a fair bit at the time). it goes pretty hard too (well for a 34 year old datto), but it pinged under load a coupla times, so i'll go easy on it till i put a 'cooler in. that, and the old R160 is protesting loudly at the on/off throttle needed to run the engine in. oh yeah, and changed the relay out but engine won't turn off... until you pull the handbrake on. :uhh: (i'll stop hi-jacking the thread now) all in all, i recommend Hyperdrive

yeah but dyno's aren't much good if the car isn't even running. PLEASE Glen/Ken get my POS Z18ET conversion running.

at what psi does the standard wastegate on an R32 RB20DET BB turbo actuate? i'm putting it on a Z18ET in a Datsun 1600. cheers