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joorsh

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  1. joorsh
    Bump
  2. joorsh
    If that knock sensor is going nuts won't that mean it's pulling timing? If that's the case, you can expect quite a power gain when you fix it!
  3. joorsh
    I hacked up an old R33 airbox this afternoon. Not sure if it'll make any difference, but at least it kept me out of trouble for an hour or so. I left a bit of the snorkel tab there because that part is closest to the exhaust manifold & turbo. I know it's not much of a heat shield, but meh. At the end I gave it a once-over with some leftover matt black to hide all my dodgy cuts & scratches. It ain't pretty, but hopefully the dyno will tell me I haven't completely wasted my time.
  4. joorsh
    Hi Dave, see if i can get them all answered for you. 1. I got my kit second hand (but hadn't been used). You can often pick them up cheaper on ebay if you don't mind waiting for one to come up. 2. I re-used all of the standard hoses except one - pictured here bottom right: Everything else got re-used. One of the standard intercooler hoses has a bracket attached to the hose and bolts to the body - this is the hose I didn't re-use. Hope this helps mate!
  5. joorsh
    Ahh! 3 litre cheater
  6. joorsh
    Here's a photo of the back of the gauge for those enquiring: It's a standard 2-pin connector for power/earth (best hooked up with your dash light circuit) and a vacuum line for the boost. You can get the 2-pin plugs from Jaycar for around 50 cents, or even from a standard computer fan. If you're feeling lazy you can also just run wires straight onto the pins. The entire unit is approx 3 inches tall.
  7. joorsh
    Ahh is that an RB26 or some such?
  8. joorsh
    Very nice! What turbo is on that one? Looks like a good compromise whatever it is!
  9. joorsh
    Yeah that's true enough! Plastic compressor + ceramic exhaust isn't exactly the perfect recipe for longevity eh? So re: the snorkel, is that where most of the power loss comes from? Many gains to be had changing out the airbox as well?
  10. joorsh
    Selling a turbo timer and a boost gauge as per the topic. Both items are in excellent condition. 1 x Greddy turbo timer: Only the turbo timer is for sale. No box, instructions or additional wiring is included (other than what is attached to the device). It was part of my alarm system and worked well. $50 1 x Apexi EL back-lit boost gauge: It also comes with no wiring or plugs. It only needs power (for the back light) and a vacuum line, and goes up to 2 bar. Tested and working. $50 The only things for sale are what is pictured - no other wiring or attachments are included. Preference will be given to buyers who can pickup (Blacktown area), but if there are no takers after a week or two I can express post them out for an additional cost. Contact via 0421 270 972. Cheers.
  11. joorsh
    The 13 PSI that I run is only for the first 1500 RPM or so (to get the torque up) - it drops back to 11PSI quite quickly. Sustained high boost + high RPM is what makes these things crap out (well, aside from the usual culprits like oil starvation, foreign body colision, age, etc). It's because of the way the turbine shaft is friction-fused to the ceramic exhaust wheel when they are made in the factory. They spin the shaft at INSANE speeds, and then press it into the centre of the ceramic exhaust wheel. The material then superheats and fuses together. You can actually load them up to 16+ PSI, but if you hold it there that's when they start to heat up, the friction-welds melt, and the exhaust wheel takes off down your dump pipe. You can run quite high boost through them and not shorten their life at all if you're smart about how you do it. As soon as you start towing heavy loads uphill, running it at the track or doing back-to-back drags runs, you'll heat them up and it'll come apart. It's quite interesting when they detach actually, because at high RPM and heat-load the welds will liquify, but it will still keep spinning and running happily. It's when you back off the throttle, and then load it up again (like during a gear change) that they shear off - I think because of the change in momentum experienced by the exhaust wheel.
  12. joorsh
    Interesting turn of events - I have always been told that the factory airbox + snorkel is good and flows well, especially with a drop-in panel filter - and that those aftermarket pods are basically worthless. Well we took off the factory snorkel (left the airbox in place) and gained over 11 awkw, for a total of 215awkw. Put it back on and it dropped straight back to 203/204awkw. So it doesn't seem to flow as well as I've been told! I also noticed the turbo intake pipe didn't seem to suck closed with the snorkel off, so it's definitely a restriction of some sort. I'm sketching up designs now for my own dodgy airbox mods, intake pipe and CAI, so we'll see what happens.
  13. joorsh
    Silver M35 spotted around 12:45pm on Windsor Road heading north past Norwest Bvd. I was on the top floor balcony of the big shiny corporate building there. Gave a cheer and a wave, but didn't expect you to spot me
  14. joorsh
    Yeah that's true - I can think of a few places it would be very handy!
  15. joorsh
    Just the standard huffer. I'm trying to build this cheap but reliable. Total cost of performance mods so far: Exhaust: Home made Boost controller: $310 Intercooler: $300 Nistune ECU: $460 Dyno time: $600 TOTAL: $1670 for approx 50awkw I've made back close to $500 selling various gauges, screens and electronic bits that came with it, but I've also spent money on boring non-performance maintenance stuff like filters, pumps, oil, brake pads, sparks and such. Now that I've done all the cheap and easy mods, the next 50 awkw will probably cost 5 times as much.
  16. joorsh
    I just bought the sticker on ebay for 2 bucks Lazy FTW
  17. joorsh
    Once it was all back together I consulted a soldering guru friend of mine re: doing the NISTune myself. He tactfully informed me that I'm a hamfisted bloody idiot and stood a 100%-120% chance of roasting my ECU if I did it myself. So I took it to Mark at MRC and 6 hours later I had this: As much as it upsets me not doing it myself, I'm pretty happy with the results on a basically stock car. Close to 120awkw @ 3000 RPM, big flat torque curve and 13 PSI from 2500 RPM. It's a good match up for a portly wagon. I'm right at the end of the fuel map at max boost, so a Z32 AFM seems like good next step. The rubber turbo intake pipe is also starting to suck closed. It doesn't shut off completely, but I can see it visibly deforming from about 3000 RPM onwards. This seems like a pretty strange thing to have happen - has anyone else ever noticed this? I think I'll play it safe and just replace it with a piece of alloy pipe or something - I don't want it closing off completely on a hot day (can it even do that?).
  18. joorsh
    In other news, I attacked the wiring on my car (again). This time with the intention of removing the idiotic japanese car alarm and turbo timer. To my horror I discovered the car actually had THREE car alarms (no, really). I'm not sure if the other two were working and somehow lumped together, or maybe they were old alarms that the previous owner was too lazy to remove. Either way, I pulled it all out along with half a dozen shock sensors, and what appeared to be a GPS tracking beacon. Man I'd love to see what the Japanese security company thinks of the car's current location. Pulled the entire dash out, and after about 4 hours of re-soldering, shrink-wrapping and fitting that black crinkly hose-stuff, my wiring loom looks stock and beautiful. Mr Nissan would be proud. I did encounter an interesting snag though - my remote keyless entry stopped working, along with the dash clock. Turns out they are both linked to the bottom-right fuse (Sorry for the tiny pic): According to my translated fuse info, that one is helpfully labelled "Elec Parts": Informative stuff. Still, I don't regret buying the english-converted sticker. 2 bucks well spent, and has saved me a dozen times with all the re-wiring I've had to do.
  19. joorsh
    I managed to get mine flat, but I did notice it was at an angle when I first did the test fit. I used a spacer on one of the brackets to even it out, plus I put both brackets in the vice and "persuaded" them a bit. I didn't use the top bracket at all - I tucked the top tab on the intercooler behind the little metal tab that the grandpa-grill clips into: See on the far right side of that picture, the black tab from the intercooler snugs up perfectly behind the yellow tab from the front grill. Since this pic was taken I've opened up the hole in the black intercooler tab, and the front grill clip goes neatly through both tabs and holds everything together. Looks pretty schmick!
  20. joorsh
    Just got my NISTune done: Series 2 C34 with a boost controller and a home-made dump pipe. Not an amazing result, but not too shabby either considering the almost total lack of mods. Around 120awkw @ 3000RPM is nice with the weight these things are lugging around. Torque curve goes up at 2500 and then flatlines to about 5800, so she's very pleasant to drive. 13 PSI @ 2500, flat line down to 11PSI at 6000.
  21. joorsh
    I did a bit of snooping around and found a few posts here about the factory Nissan Stagea security and keyless entry. From what I understand there is the newer system called NATS, and then there's the older more basic security. I believe only the M35 and newer have NATS - is this true? Mine is a 2000+ Series 2 Stagea and it doesn't have any of the funky coloured markings at the base of the key- it looks just like this one: The other day I removed a horrible old Japanese alarm from my car (well technically it was 3 alarms), and now my keyless entry doesn't work. Car still starts and drives, it's just the buttons on the key that no longer work (I only have 1 key). I'm thinking one of three things has happened: I've friend the factory nissan security module while pulling out the dodgy old alarm. My remote codes have dropped off the factory security system for whatever reason. There's a cut wire under the dash that I missed (this one is highly unlikely - I was very thorough) Is there a way to test to factory security module to make sure it's all working? And how difficult is it to re-program a key when you don't have a currently working one? If I need to go to a Nissan dealer, can anyone recommend a good one that won't freak out about imports? My nearest dealer is Nissan Blacktown (Sydney). I'm also open to any non-Nissan suggestion - mobile locksmiths, etc who know what they're doing. I like having the key and remote built into one, so I'd rather not just put an aftermarket alarm on it and have more crap to carry around on my keyring.
  22. joorsh
    Haha totally me.
  23. joorsh
    At least I think that's what it's called... It's the little white box behind the glovebox, tucked up to the left (only 1 x 10mm bolt above it holds it in place). I'm looking to get one for testing if anyone has one for sale, I'm in 2147 - Sydney.
  24. joorsh
    I'm in Sydney, 2147.
  25. joorsh
    Bump
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