BoostisBliss

Bought mine in Florida second usa owner traded my evo 9 for it (I know I know) car was in about 6 out of 10 condition I'd like to say its mechanically about an 8 out of ten now the frames got some dents the quarters both have rot and its definatley been painted and hit in the front and rear turbos blew after I got it home spent last summer swapping in newer stock units diff was leaking sealed it and refill bleed, driver axle CV boot was gone rebooted that replaced inner tie rods then it broke after that and couldn't figure out why for a while turns out rat chewed thru the hot wire on the CAS to ecu somewhere now it's a kill switch lol no stereo when I got it now its 2 amps around 1500 watts with old school jlw3 15 built into the trunk hits hard, decided to rewire the fuel pump with new relay and 255 Wally, replaced fuel filter and sock new ignitor harness and splitfires, headlights were hacked and the hazards didnt work now it's all sorted didnt have license plate lights wired those up painted alot under the hood to more stockish colors, just bought a gates timing belt kit and OEM water pump, oil seals and all new hardware, should be ready to do it in the next few weeks. All in all I knew what I was getting into if I was to do it again I would have waited for a better one but honestly I enjoy it because it's not perfect so I'm not scared to use it. The evo was alot faster but we will get there after all the wear and tear is sorted. Next stop power fc 1000cc injectors and r34 spec turbskis.

Since I tried to start it it has not blown but I think I hit a bump in the road and then it happened I dont think the fuse is even related honestly because I think it was the fuse for my dash clock because after I replaced the fuse it was working again. Do you know if the knock sensor is bad or if that means the ecu is detecting engine knock. I'm just trying to rule out engine failure at this point because I'm a worrier. After removing the coils I see 2 of the leads are very loose and wobbling around. I hope maybe it's just coil packs. They are the original ones so I knew they would cause problems eventually. Let me know if you know about the code 34 if that means actuall knock or just a bad sensor.

Hey guys my car died the other day on the highway just cruising at around 70mph. It lost engine power and and as soon as I pulled over I was unable to start the car again. The exhaust overheat light came on which I now know is the same as a check engine light. I towed it home and jumped the pins to reveal a code 21 ignition circuit. After replacing a blown electronic parts fuse I tried to start again with no luck. I jumped the pins again and now I'm getting fault code 34 engine knock sensor as well as code 21. I just ordered coil packs and figured that was the problem but just realized that 1 bad coil pack and the car would still start am I correct? Now I'm worried because of the knock sensor code. I couldn't find much info on the code 34. Does this mean the sensor is bad or detecting an actual engine knock? The car has new ignitor and new coil pack harness. I'm hoping new coil packs will remedy my problem but I'm now thinking it may be worse than that. I'm going to spin the CAS now to see if the injectors are clicking to make sure it's not the problem. Any advice would be really appreciated.

I did it. I'm not sure what exactly I did but I ran a larger guage vacuum line connector to my pressure source and took the MBC apart, cleaned it with solvent and bam. I also mounted it in a more direct location. I'm happy to report that my car is happily making 12 psi all the way to redline with the slightest spike to 13 when really nailing it. I might turn it down slightly but man does 4 psi make a difference! I'm f**king pumped lol. The first thing I tried was removing the ball and spring from the MBC but that was just making infinite boost but after the above procedure the turbo gods are smiling down on me. Thanks for the advice. Now to start saving for an ecu and big boy turbskis.

Your right about this it happened to my evo9 a few years back, ball got fused to the spring somehow and it made infinite boost scared the crap outta me, probably hit 40 psi on a WOT pull before I noticed. And yes i have set it up backwards and it just makes infinite boost like the wastegates are staying closed. I'm really confused about why this is happening. Not a huge deal and honestly it's probably a good thing until I can afford to rebuild my oem stockies to r34 spec with the steel impellers or some other reasonable turbos, I'd rather them underboost then overboost. I was only planning on running 10 to 11psi anyhow because of how easily I blew up my stock turbos after hitting 18psi on highway wot. Very strange though and kinda annoying me a bit but maybe it's the turbo gods trying to save me from blowing up my motor lol. The car is not in mint condition and I'm sure it had a rough 85k miles before I got my hands around the steering wheel. I think I'm going to tear down the whole vacuum line setup and set it up again. I've always had more luck the 2nd and 3rd time around with fixing things. I just changed the oil and put in mobile1 10w30 but have been reading that alot of people run a much thicker oil. Do you guys run 10w40/50/60 in your cars? I've seen weights all over the place. But 10w30 seems like a bad decision. Lmk thanks for all the support fellas!!!!

Nothing man I've tried a separate boost source and a independent line to the wg I'm leaning toward the boost t being faulty I'm waiting for some funds to become available to start throwing parts at it but yea still the same 9psi.

I will keep you posted I'm gonna take the MBC apart and remove the ball and spring also try to pull pressure from somewhere else for starters it not terribly slow so it doesn't bother me too much but it's still high on my priority list now that I've got most of the other things sorted out. Let me know if you find a solution as well!!

I didn't even notice that lol!!!

First pic is the line that goes to the intake manifold second pic is the line that goes around the back of the motor to WGs 3rd pic is where it comes out 4th pic is where the line tees into the rear turbo WG 5 pic is the front turbo line to wg and last is a drawing done by a 2nd grader that tries it all together

Ok so here's a drawing of the setup because it's hard to photo but this is exactly it. Boost source is under the intake manifold runs behind the motor back to the rear turbo. Then the line is teed between the wastegate nipples. Also not that these turbos dont have boost source nipples as they are from 1992 maybe that has nothing to do with it but I dont know. On these cars they used the intake manifold as the pressure source. Ok so I took some pictures the last pic is the pressure source do you think maybe I should try a different pressure source maybe like fuel pressure regulator? or something 155136775088815513692366041551369274607155136930140515513693289731551369353594

I have switched it all around a few times and it's either 9psi or infinite psi lol it doesn't spike or trail of or gradually make more or less. Its f**king stuck on 9 on the dot. I am really thinking this MBC is f**ked I cant imagine what else it could be unless it's the WG itself which is possible. So if just one of the wastegates was opening and the other was not functioning could that maybe cause it to only make 9psi? I will eventually be swapping in gt28r hks turbos when my funds will allow or maybe a single but for now this is what in working with. Maybe I need to swap wastegates and the MBC to get to the bottom of this .Thanks for the input I do appreciate your time.

Sorry my gma has been in the hospital haven't had a chance to mess with it much as far as I know the wastegates are not adjustable because I've had them out to swap them and the arms are fixed in place. They are OEM Garrett turbos just newer ones that have their exhaust wheels. I have tried to vent the wastegates to atmosphere like you said and they make infinite boost like you said. The thing with the hose is the stock boost control plumbing I'm using as a pressure source for the MBC. The plumbing on the gtr is a line that is on the opposite side under the intake manifold and is nearly impossible to see. It has always been used as a pressure source even before this debacle. It comes out around the back of the firewall to the other side near the rear turbo. I have always used this line for the MBC and it worked before no problem. It's just nearly impossible to see with the intake manifold on the car. It's right past the stupid place they put the oil filter. I tried running a hose directly from the WG closing this OEM vacuum line that goes around the rear of the motor as I thought perhaps there might be and obstruction or kink for some reason which really doesn't seem logical because it worked fine before and it is made of metal piping. But like I said even when bypassing the OEM pressure source piping with a rubber hose it still does the same thing. If the car is making infinite boost when the wastegates are run with open lines then I think that rules out a boost leak. But I think you may be right that the MBC might be messed up. I think my next move will be to remove the ball and spring from the MBC or then also put teflon tape around the threads for the 2 nipples to see if maybe its leaking a bit. I had an evo that had an issue with the ball getting stuck because it had become corroded, and it was making infinite boost. Once I removed the ball and spring it was fine. If that's not the issue I'll just try another MBC but it's a brand new hallman and it was holding boost on the original setup no problem so I dont know why it would be broken. I also took it apart and there is no sign of corrosion or evidence of it getting stuck. But it may be as simple as that. Again thanks for you input and I really do appreciate it more than you know. Nzz--

Yes. I'll try to get picks. Seems like it's all as it should be I'm just venting. As are my turbos.

Ok here's what happened I traded my evo for this car knowing it wasn't perfect drove it almost 1000 miles home and start really digging into it and find alot. Rust. CV boots tie rods random oil leaks and rest diff leaks and sorted all that. Car starts idling funny bucking like crazy after it warms up boost leak test confirms leaks in several places. Intake manifold and tbody as well as the turbosmart boost t. This was done by a r32 rb26 experienced shop but here's the strange part. They did all the gaskets on that side of the motor I get it back and the first time I put my foot down it spits out an exhaust wheel. I check the ro and see boost set to 18psi and I'm like well that's like 5 pounds higher than before why would they do that. They wouldn't take responsibility and wanted me to bring it back for new turbos. I'm broke at this point and say I've done turbos before I'll do it again. So I source a set of used OEM turbos from a shop in Texas claiming on 30k kilometers of use. They look to have been professionally cleaned. Fine. I check the shafts over seems ok swap over wastegates oil and coolant lines restud the exhaust manifold they were all mostly smoked run new coolant feeds they were seized and new cometic gaskets and hardware on everything. Get it running. When wastegates are vta the boost just keeps on climbing. So I know the actuators are staying closed when they dont see pressure. You are correct the j part of the hallman mbc goes to wastegates and the bottom is the pressure source and that's exactly as I have it. I'm going to plug the plumbing under the intake that goes around the back of the motor and run a hose directly from the MBC to the wastegates today to see if I can get her to about 12 psi until i can afford to rebuild my old set with n1 wheels. ECU is stock no codes no lights hicas works and attessa seems to be functioning I'm pleased with the car actually its come along way there was a bunch of electrical gremlins I've sorted as well but I dont think they could be related. The wastgate actuators move back and forth as they should without too much force and the arms are straight and secured tightly. Stock turbos are internally gated. You said waste gate can be adjusted? I'll look into that. I appreciate the responses alot !! I'm literally swapping the plumbing now and I'll go for a ripper see if that changes anything.

Hey so I got a problem after blowing up my old stock turbos I cheaped out and bought another set of stock turbos and shes back running. Problem is I cant get the MBC to do anything. Seems like waste gate pressure and then that's it. I have a hallman mbc that as far as I can tell is exactly as it should be. It also has the ball in spring inside and is properly installed yet i cant get any more psi. Is removing the ball and spring a thing? There aren't any boost leaks and everything seems to be as it should. The waste gate plumbing to the MBC is really hard to see as it's under the intake manifold. Should I just run a hose directly to the waste gates that's probably my next move. Also nothing is crimped I went over everything and the action on the flapper arms is smooth. Anyone ever see an issue like this? Any info would be awesome. Thanks guys. Seems like it's running pretty rich too.