colata

Thanks for the reply! Just snapped one up local that came up after i posted the reply unfortunately

Anything still available? looking for an intake manifold desperately, in TAS

I’ve found now that the symptom persists only when fuse 12 of of the HEC unit is present, which must have been completing the IGN-1 relay control, but I’m unaware of where it goes too. The diagram suggests it’s for the “Eng Cont” but I’ll backtrack it and re-post an update on why I believe it was malfunctioning, but for now leaving that fuse out, the car starts, runs and turns off as expected.

Thanks for the info! Will investigate today and backtrack what was touched in the removal of the immobiliser and see what I find! Thanks! :)

Hello all! After removing my immobiliser and swapping out a faulty HEC, im now left with a car that starts, runs fine but won't cut the ignition signal when the key is removed / ignition barrel is disconnected from the loom. When the battery has been disconnected THEN reconnected, i have no voltage coming from wire 3 (ignition wire) when probing (with the harness connected, as expected.) However, when the ignition is switched on (by turning the key in the barrel) the signal is closed and the circuit is complete, but it will not open the circuit when the key is switched back to off and even when the circuit is opened by removing the ignition barrel harness. This circuit will remain complete until either the battery is disconnected, or the IGN-1 relay is removed from the HEC unit. I was originally under the impression it was a short to voltage, but when i realised it only occurs once the barrel has been turned and not so much as soon as the harness is connected to the battery i'm stumped. I've tried identifying any relays installed complimentary to the immobiliser, but can't find anything hidden up under the dash or in the engine bay, any help or pointers is appreciated and ill attach the relevant diagrams, including a complete body and engine harness diagram as a pdf. any pointers and help is appreciated! thanks for your time! r31_service_manual_ti_diagram.pdf

Update to my findings. Found that the ignition relay (pin 1) had no continuity, so manually grounded it, completed the relay circuit but still did not change the no start condition. Pins 43/45 Also had low/no voltage, but unsure if that should be the case or not, pointers would be helpful.

If you could point me to where i would be finding fuses for the ECU, etc. on an RB20 swapped 31 / rb20 loom that would be appreciated, the engine cont. fuse (factory fuse box) under the wheel is good and as far as ive been able to find, the rest related to the ECU would be the fusible links, which i have checked and are all ok

Hey guys, first post so make sure if its incorrect, etc. drop a comment down below showing my how to fix in the future. Got a no start on my RB20DET R31. Information prior to the no start condition: Car was idling, has been running for weeks fine, recently fixed a leaking o-ring at the fuel rail, and while it was idling after the repair i was attempting to get the cluster temp guage working from an RB30e temp sender to the single spade connector on the factory 20det harness. Accidentaly tapped/bumped the spade (connected to the harness) against the block / thermostat plumbing and the engine just cut out and died instantly. No sputtering, etc. died as if the key had been turned off, very strange and could only imagine its some voltage serge situation. Information relating to my diagnosis that may or may not be relevant but i thought id include: - Fuel pump can be heard running on "ignition ON", FPR reads 0kg/cm fuel pressure, but increases to around 1-2 (30-40 or so psi) when the hose is squeezed. - Secondary ECU has been trialed that is believed to be healthy but haven't tested for myself, only word of mouth. ECU Pins: 50/60 - Closed circuit 10/20 - Closed circuit 107/108/116 - Closed circuit 26 - Closed circuit 58/49/59 - 12v + (ONLY WHEN PIN 16 IS MANUALLY GROUNDED) 109 - 12v + 45 - Believed to be possible open circuit, will be re-checking and updating asap. Extra notes: ENGINE CRANKS FINE. - Pin 16 has 12v to the ECU harness but does not activate ECCS relay when "ignition ON". BUT when manually grounded to chassis (bypassing ECU) ECCS relay activates and pins 49/59 recieve 12v+ to the ecu harness. - CAS has ground and 12v+, when spun by hand 1 degree wire cuts 5v respectively (per 1 degree), but the 180 degree seems to be all over the place, more like 20 degrees separation. Also when spun by hand, injectors and coils CAN NOT be heard firing. - Injector 6 has been tested with a noid light on crank and revealed NO pulsing, entire rail has also been tested out of manifold with no injectors visibly firing on crank. - Coil 6 has been tested with a plug in the boot, out of the head and no spark was seen. P.S Ignore the scribbles on the photos, most are there when i've gone on tangents and probably reveal nothing about the problem, just me trying to clear the diagrams in my head, I included them simply for reference in the event they are incorrect / outdated, etc. Any help is appreciated at this point, it's probably really obvious but i'm driving myself crazy over the past couple weeks with this and as im beginning to take on more work i have less time to goose chase and need to regain a sense of direction for what i should be investigating, thanks! - Sam