SandyBill

Thanks heaps for the reply Josh It would have been nice if the consult-3 could talk to older Nissan's with some sort of adaptor.. I'll just have to see if I can do the old jump on the brake pedal to cycle the solenoids or reverse bleed the system but I'm worried reverse bleeding will just fill the master with air instead haha. Thanks man I'll keep it in mind about jumping pin 5 if all else fails! Kudos There used to be a PC program you could download called conzult that covered all models in the consult scan tools and gave you entire access of all onboard computers just like having the real unit but they ended up settling it's use for the 300zx only, due to not enough sales. I'd pay $300 for that in a heartbeat right now.

May be worth getting the injectors flow tested after you've made sure it's not a pressure issue, 👍

Hello just wondering if anyone ever worked out a way to purge the abs unit in a 33/34 without a Nissan consult-1 scan tool. If not does anyone know where or how I can get a hold of one of these bloody scan tools nowadays, cheers.

Correct it has the fuel pump prime and displays all lights on dash then cranks over no worries but doesn't fire. I sadly have no consult system available. It makes all the normal clicks with the key turned to ignition as it used too strangely enough. I believe the computer may somehow be dead. It's been sitting on the passenger floor untouched for about 5 months as the car sat with the haltech plugged in. (Car isn't on the road)

Just the stockies back in

I recently swapped my er34 back from a haltech elite with adaptor harness to the factory computer. Swapped all the sensors back to factory etc etc. Car idles no worries on the haltech, but will not even give a puff on the stock ecu. Has spark, has fuel.. Any tips or ideas that come to mind would be greatly appreciated on what this issue may be. Thanks

Hi guys I'm rejuvenating my R34 GTT sumitomo's front and rear I can get all the piston rebuild kits etc fine from kudos and the spring clips but where on earth do you purchase new pins and the actual wire clips that retain the pins for the front and rear calipers? Cheers

I'm maybe thinking more along the lines of a small I.D silicone fuel resistant hose (small motor fuel hose) line the exposed wiring/solder joint with something like https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/permatex-permatex-fuel-resistant-gasket-sealant-85420/356517.html and slip the silicone fuel resistant hose over it. the gasket sealant is non hardening so should keep even a slightly loose hose in place permanently as the sealant wont harden. Best I can come up with man hope it helps!

Most automotive heat shrink will either expand or dissolve over time in the tank so you would need some kind of fuel resistant heat shrink. Don't know if a marine spares might carry something

Just wanted to see if anyone has run a GTX3071r with the larger 1.01a/r twin Scroll housing and if it went well or would go well on an Rb25 / neo

Hey man, the circular dampener looking thing is a replacement pressure relief, stock Nissan item found on gtr's and comes with all tomei and nismo fuel pumps I believe to replace the factory plastic relief. No soldering required for this, plugged straight into the standard fuel hat plug. Have done the direct battery feed mod for the pump and the jet pump to the left in the picture is just insurance for the old stock plastic thing that draws fuel from the opposite hump side of the tank.

Hey just wanted to add this image here as there is none floating about on the correct layout for the sard jet pump in case anyone got confused by the manual on an R34 GTT 1999. Hope it can help someone out someday.