rahilp

Hi there I'm getting married on Sept 15 2023, and I'm looking for a car to drive me to the venue which is from Shailer Park to Rocklea (approx 25km). I was looking at having a Datsun 240k firstly but seem to be struggling to find anyone. I love my Skyline as that's why I was looking for the 240k, however I'm open to any classic Japanese car such as 240/260z, celica, 808 etc. I'm also open to some more modern Jap cars but it has to be something bit more special. So if you have anything please comment, message and hopefully we can work something out. Thank you

So I have a greddy manifold, it's underneath, I gave it a decent clean a year ago

Hi there So I've seem to have this problem with my R34 GTT. Firstly the issue The car seems to idle fine. However when it's cold and I accelerate (floor it) the car drops its revs drastically then shoots up. If I accelerate slowly (even tapping the pedal) the car will stall. When the car is warm it stalls alot easier. Suspected the alternator but tested 14.6volts Cleaned the MAF The car is a R34 GT-T manual with stock ecu with a forward facing plenum. If you have any ideas please throw them at me Video below does show the temp being high, at the time my thermo fans weren't plugged in received_1892722887557038.mp4

Sold now

Hi guys I have a pair of R33 GTR rear seat I want to sell, looking at selling them for $950 located in Brisbane and happy to ship. As you can see in the photos, there's no stains, rips, tears or cigarette burns. But does have some sun fade on the top which is common. I'm happy to swap for any parts (mechanical, interior), but it will need to fits my R34. I'm currently in the market for wheels and if you have anything let me know and it will be cash your way + the seat. Pretty much if you have anything you don't want, feel free to PM me and we can go from there.

Thought I'd have a looking at the timing belt. And it is out by two teeth would that be enough to cause this?

Might invest in one or see if there any reputable mechanic available this week. And its 2 short flashes pause followed by 1 quick flash

I guess I can put my multimeter on the ecu loom and see if there's any output voltage when the car running. But I had continuity on all the trigger wire from the coilpacks plug to the ecu

Sadly earth strap didn't fix it

Spark plugs were replaced, but ill look at that as the battery was relocated to the boot and it was earthed near the boot The car had a period where it was down for about 3 months and had a few things done

Hi there I've currently have Error 21 (ignition signal circuit). I've also have a misfire happening only at low RPM. It will stall out if you accelerate approx 50%, if you go 75% it will drop the revs and almost stall then shoot up, but accelerate slowly it will go just as normal (these are all from stand still and rolling slowly) Firstly the car is R34 GT-T manual running stock ecu Injectors Turbo Throttle body with TCS still Aftermarket Greddy intake Front Mount intercooler Splitfire Coilpacks I've installed the splitfire coilpacks last week (brand new) along with spark plugs gapped at 0.8. I checked the coilpack loom for constant ground + 12v with the ign on and tested trigger signal for continuity from the ecu to the coilpack loom (so those have all passed) I've heard people say replace the loom but idk if thats going to resolve it for me Injectors were cleaned and flow tested about a month ago I've heard CAS could be a problem, I assumed mine was fine and wasn't going to be and issue. But I bought another one and it was still the same issue. Then borrowed someone's with a working one and still same issue Hope someone has some knowledge

As the title say looking for altia r34 side skirt (coupe) but may be open to other I'm from brisbane but happy for shipping Thanks

1. That 1st picture i posted found yeah its not a nipple my mistake but the recent 2 pictures ive attached shows that the boost sensor hose going to the fitting its not a line running underneath its 100% has had a fitting tapped into the pipe. The 1st picture of the 2 recent ones show what i said it is. The fitting is in the dead bang centre of the pipe 2. Im sorry im probably missing the plot but how does changing the jpipe to another factory oem one and putting and oem bov and using the original factory lines affect those things, like the jpipe looks identical except for that fitting thats been tapped in From my understanding isnt the TCS the part circled in red which im not touching anyways, and that is staying on the throttle body and the blue circle is the j pipe the part i am replacing

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit

Sorry my pic is bit shit the engine is still hot, my little nipple has definitely been tapped in to the j pipe then, it does not look factory at all and I dont have the charcoal canister line going back into the intake manifold in my setup the last guy has done some weird shit Sorry you also talk about traction control etc, how is that affected with only that j pipe, im literally only changing that pipe, all those parts arent connected to them are they

Sorry i dont have the pipes on me currently as I'm at work but I've attached pictures I have found from each j pipe

Hi there so my R34 currently has an atmos blow off valve, the last owner had sorta cut the flange off and welded a ring for his new one making it an effort to fix up and the plumb back hose was taken out completely and blocked. I'm wanting to take it back to a factory plumb back style. I had bought a R33 one thinking they were the same as an R34 as it was labeled as RB25 at the wreckers, but after getting home and putting them side to side I notice the neo one has a little pipe nipple for the boost sensor near the end and the R33 J pipe doesnt have any at all So I bought a j pipe, BOV and the r33 plumb back hose And looking at nissan parts drawing I see that a neo doesnt have a nipple on the plumb back hose (looks like it to me) where as the r33 does I was wondering if there was a way to fix this issue. My idea is bit weird as I was thinking of taking the line from the boost sensor to the r33 plumb back hose fitting with the nipple that's doing nothing atm. But was wondering if that will affect the reading as it so close to the start of air intake where as usually you would have it right at the end. I know getting an r34 one would be ideal but there isnt any in my area atm been looking for weeks, the bov that I'm running currently does seem to make car run pretty lean as the engine is mainly stock and dont see anything else causing an issue with fuel consumption. Will be adding picture soon hopefully tonight or early morning

Hey yeah i did find that Russian post, but yeah seems like their impossible to find, i wont give up just yet Thanks for the help

This may help thats the number on the filter tray

These are the old filter that were in there

So these are the element things im not sure what they are

Its a 1998 GT-T

Yeah it weird theres like an element that takes up most of the space if it wasnt for that a normal one would fit

Again part number AY684-NS002 wont fit it too thick the video above shows what i mean

Hi there i pulled apart my cabin air filter to replace i cant seem to find one small enough one to fit. The old one that was in there already was one that the old owner has cut but wasn't a proper filter and has half fallen apart so cleaning it will be pointless The part number AY684-NS002 cabin filter that mention in all the thread is way to thick to fit in mine the measurement of the old filter was 245mm x 95mm x 10mm thick I cant find anything that is thin enough to fit (10mm /1cm thick) The video i posted below is similar to what I'm encountering that a person posted and for the life of me cant find anything suitable to fit Skip to the 1 min 30 sec mark to see the filter tray assembly and you will see the issue