nouveau_poor

Got them in the other day. I can confirm the r33/r34 nozzles (B8K30-AA000) are the exact same. Hope this helps anyone else that comes looking for it

Got the R33 nozzles on order atm. I'm fairly certain the only difference in parts numbers is because the factory units are painted to match the body and after the R32 they were just black plastic. Should be fine!

Hi all, Bit of an odd question but the only OEM washer nozzles I can find readily available are listed as fitting the R33/R34 models. The R32 (shown below) has it's versions sold as a LH and RH piece while the R33/R34 nozzles are sold as a set (part number B8K30-AA000). Has anyone tried using these nozzles on their R32 Skyline hood? Do they fit without issues or with slight shaving, or are they completely incompatible? Visually they look almost exactly the same as the original factory nozzles I have now. They aren't expensive so I can eat the $30 or so that it would cost to try but I figured I'd ask in case someone had tried it already. Thanks!

I've seen people with success using Simple Green cleaner and a light abrasive like steel wool or scotch brite pad

Dang, wonder how that works out with the tuner. Do they fund a new engine or a different way to make it square?

That's wild. Good that you caught them. And here I am in the states barely locking my doors in the small town I'm living in now. A bad habit I'll have to work on fixing

I think I've read in another thread that one of the best "simple" changes to the engine one can do is to tune some adjustable cam gears and that even on factory camshafts a gear tune can give additional power. Maybe there is a compare and contrast thread out there for the same engine setup. One with factory gears/cams, one with adjusted gears/factory cams, one with one with adjusted gears/aftermarket drop in cams.

Yeah, more searching around was enough to spook me away from them even if the full details about their relationship isn't completely clear. The discount is huge but maybe the above is the reason why, now that I think about it. Not keen on risking an ill fitting cam, or worse a snapped one. Will check out the Kelfords. Any strong opinions on similar spec HKS cams? Seem to be close in pricepoint and I've been very pleased with the other parts they produce.

Finished reading around a bit. So with the official announcement was in 2019, anyone know when Tomei JP stopped supplying cams to Tomei USA from Japan or if Tomei USA has always made their own cams? Definitely going to dig further

Thanks for the feedback both. Reason I ask is that they seem to be a popular modest cam to pair with Garrett -5 turbos, where I'm shooting for the 450-500hp range. An opportunity came up where I could get them BNIB off somebody going a different direction with their build for about 1/3 the normal retail price. Really has me eying them. I'll read through the TomeiUSA forum post that was provided

Hey all, Was looking to get some cams for my R32 GTR and noticed that the popular Tomei Poncam Type B's seem to have two different versions between the USA and Japan. From Tomei USA's site, for part TA301A-NS05C, the duration is 262 with 9.15mm lift. On the Japanese sites like Nengun or RHDJapan the duration is 260 with 9.15mm lift. Is there different versions between USA and JP spec? I don't think it's a typo since the different US suppliers I check have the same information. Both parts are part number 143005. RHDJapan has them for comparable prices to US suppliers, but Nengun lists them for almost 40,000 yen (400$) more, adding more to my confusion. I wouldn't think that a difference of 2 in duration would make all that much difference but am more concerned about possible differences in materials or manufacturing process. Can anyone shed any light on this? Thank you

This might be an obscure piece of trivia, but does anyone know the significance or meaning behind the number 913 on the Impul Momo steering wheel series (Special, Expert, etc.)? The same model that was used on Calsonic race cars at the time such as the Calsonic R32 GTR. I cannot for the life of me find the answer on google or the forum.

The issue in the end was that the speedometer itself, the one with the mileage counter, that was fitted was meant for a late model cluster, rather than the early model needed for my 1990. Essentially, the cable from the ECU that connects to the speedo had nothing to connect to or read, hence no speed reading and resulting in the HICAS light. The continuity from the ECU to the speedo plug came back fine, no wire degradation. From what I remember, I think the actual speed sensor wire was green and yellow if that helps. Early model speedos have this extra wiring bit:

Front end could use some work, the grilles of previous renders looked better in my opinion. Looks fantastic from the inside and side view. The rear I have mixed feelings about, the lights themselves are neat but the black bar they are on looks a bit out of place. I might be nit-picking, but the rear badge also appears very large but it might be my imagination. Maybe it'll grow on me.

Americans will pay unholy amounts for an R34. Whether the over inflation is from Fast and Furious, Need for Speed, or something else, there is no question that the buyers have quite a lot of disposable income. These cars are status symbols at this point. Those who bought theirs before the prices went moonshot really are lucky.

fair enough sure, but why get rid of the timer if he's already got it? The other post sounded like the timer itself would cause an issue.

Why get rid of the turbo timer? I thought they were a good thing for turbo engines to let them sit for a bit after driving before shutting off the engine.

Not exactly parts, but I have a muffler towel signed by the Impul grid girls last year and a shirt signed by Kazuyoshi Hoshino at Tokyo Auto Salon. Other than that it'd be my small collection of old Nismo interior bits.

Sold

Price reduction $400

Hi all, first sale post here. I have a Power FC and Commander that I'm looking to sell. I'm in the United States and can ship anywhere domestically for free, but can also ship internationally at buyers expense. It's an L-Jetro for use with AFMs. Was functioning great when pulled from the car. Feel free to ask questions! Asking for $500 USD I'll leave the post up for as long as it's available. It's also on eBay if you prefer that. See pictures below.

Can confirm Americans will sell their kidney for anything with the numbers 3 and 4 in the model number. Even more if you have a Paul Walker sticker/reference on it

It won't be a daily driver, more a weekend/pleasure car but it seems like the consensus is that light pulleys will cause some form of drop, so it'd be wise to just leave them be if the OEM pulleys can keep on chugging.

Sorry for the crap quality but this is the the best angle I could get on them. Similar to the photo up top, the belt ribbing area seems to have gotten some of what appears to be surface rust over the last 30 years, like how Duncan was describing the anodizing coming off his Greddy's I presume. If it's as easy as just giving them a good clean while they're off then I might as well do that and save a few bucks. If not, well that's why I'm looking at potential replacements.