noperope

Having flushed out the coolant and replaced the thermostat it would appear as that has done it. The temperatures are holding steady around 80C. Never done this work before so it's been a learning experience. I'm going to test the old thermostat to see if it's completely or maybe just partially shot. Anyho, thanks for the replies guys!

The engine was pulled apart at the beginning of last year and had the water pump changed at the same time. It's the stock fan indeed but the shroud is gone since a long time, never had it. As many of you already pointed out, I will have at the thermostat and replacing it regardless since it's such a cheap part and I don't know if it has ever been replaced. I'll report back when it's done.

That's what I used to see as well even during drifting. I'm running a Link G4 so I should be able to have a look what the settings are, however, I just want to point out that nothing has changed since it went on the dyno earlier this year. I'll take this into advice and see if I can maybe export some log-data while I'm at it.

The car has been running fine during everything from cruising to drift events while on the last drift event the temperatures started to run off after just 2-3 laps. The oil reached about 105C after which I took some cooling laps and got the temperature rather quickly back to 85-90C, the coolant was also increasing steadily and occasionally reached 100C while sitting on the grid, requiring some longer cooling runs. The weather at the time was about 25C. Since that day I have had the temperatures creep up as as soon as the car is standing still will continue to increase, to the 100C and above. While cruising on the highway at 130km/h and 20C (cloudy) weather the oil sits at about 85C and the coolant about the same, but as soon as I stop the temperature starts rising again and within 5-8 minutes the oil temp reaches 100. The symtoms are the same from cold start, the temperature will continue to increase until there is air flowing through the radiator. The fan is running, not oil leaks or coolant leaks, the oil level is on par and the oil pressure is about 2bar on idle and 5 bar on 4k rpm. I'm using Greddy after market gauges. I'm running a RB25 with about 500hp, forged pistons, metal head gasket, GTX3076, after market radiator, oil cooler (mounted in front of the radiator). I have tried to searching for similar threads/articles but usually find that their overheating problems are regardless of moving or not. Any ideas on where to start?

Yepp, in addition to having the gearbox rebuilt I also had a Exedy flywheel, ACT 6-puck clutch and ACT HD pp installed. The gearbox feels much more solid and direct when selecting a gear compared to before. So far it has been running about 350km without any issues/noises. Case closed

I got the gearbox back and was told that the input shaft bearing was completely shot and thereby replaced, in addition, two syncro rings was also replaced as they were worn.

Update: Having pulled it apart it turns out that that when manually turning the input shaft it produced a rather crunchy noise and the transmission oil was rather "grey" in color so it's being sent out to be rebuilt.

Thanks! Amayama is definitely a resource I'll keep for future reference, much appreciated.

These are the part numbers I've found: 30502-69F1A 30502-21000 Does anyone know which is the right one?

I've been searching for a clutch release bearing and stumbled upon many that is only for R33 GTST 93-96 and others that doesn't state any specific year which makes me believe that all R33's should have the same part number. Is that the case or is there specific bearings for 93-96 and then 96-98?

I'm currently in the market for upgrading the clutch and figured I'll go with a 6-puck clutch to get a bit more bite as I'm primarily going drifting. The car currently produces 500nm and I'm standing between getting either an ACT clutch (https://www.autoextreme.co.uk/act-clutch-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-gtst-heavy-duty-race-sprung-6-puk-clutch.html) or a Xtreme KNI24007-1B. I'm currently running a fullface clutch so I'm aware about that there will be more bit with a 6-puck. However, I'm wondering about ACT vs. Xtreme, I've been trying Googling but due to their generic names it's not easy. As I'm changing the clutch I figured I might as well get a lightened flywheel and it's current standing between a Competition ultralight flywheel (steel, 5kg) or a Driftworks flywheel (chromoly, 8.5kg). 3.5kg is quite a difference but the materials are also different, which I was curious if anyone could provide additional insight to. Thanks in advance guys :)

Thanks! I wasn't hoping for an exact solution, but from experience there's usually one or so people that have had the exact same noise/issue. In any case, I'll report back when I've got everything disassembled to bring closure to the topic and for anyone else who might have the same issue.

This morning when I started the car there was a distinct knocking noise which went away after about 15 seconds, when turning off the car it was back while the engine was just coming to a halt. This evening I made an effort to try to identify where it was coming from, and remembered having read about the throw-out/release bearing could cause noise, having done some research my problem might be due to the pilot bearing. The noise goes away completely the clutch pedal is pressed and returns when it's depressed. A noise example is available below (clear noise at 00:17->), does it sound familiar to anyone? I'm going to replace the clutch and flywheel as the same time as attending to this but was curious if someone would be familiar with the issue and how much work is involved.

I've been battling a water leak which have ended up with the sides in the trunk collecting water easily when it rains. I finally narrowed it down to the rear window trim in which the plastic mounts that the trim is screwed into seems to have been either cracked or otherwise defect as I have found water drops hanging from the few that I can see from the inside having removed the rear seat. I also feel moisture on the metal below those mounts, which I guess leads down to the sides where the water gathers. Would these need replacing or would it just make due with some sealant? I have not been able to find any rust. I also suspect that there might be coming in from the tail lights as well but this is something that I'm still investigating.

Thanks a lot, that's excellent information! I'm not entirely sure which approach I'm going to take but to some extent I have to use a broker as I won't be going to Japan myself plus all the paperwork, I will however be able to bid myself. As you say, making an educated guess on the overall state of the car is probably best, but given the R rating I might be in for a surprise, my biggest fear is rust but given the auction sheet that shouldn't be a problem, at least no big surprises. As to documentation, how much is provided before the auction and what is provided after the auctions is won? I would assume that all available documentation is at least listed before the auction, at least what kind of documents that are available and performed mods.

Next year I'm planning to import a car from Japan for the purpose of drifting, thus the choice of the auction grade as I don't really care much for interior or spotless body panels. I was also hoping to maybe save a few bucks on the fact that the car might have damage or is heavily modified; in your experience, is it so? Or does the price simply even out as these heavily modified cars just gets attractive to a different group of people? Heavily modified can of course mean different things, but when it comes to the state of the engine, would that be something to worry more about in the auction grades compared to the higher grades? I'm well aware that these grades can include accident damaged cars, but as I said, it's for drifting so it's definitely not going to be the last dent it gets. I'm importing it to the Netherlands so I'm not bound by the AU regulation (in case there might be something that may cause issues). I'm already rolling in a Japanese import (R33) but it was not imported by me, so now I'm looking into getting the full experience (although requesting help for the actual import) and doing as much research I can so that I can make a well-founded decision on what kind of car to choose. In case you have other aspects that I haven't brought up already in terms of auction grade and the purposes of the import etc. let me know.

From what I've read the GTX3076 is rated at 400-640hp which brings it just in range of my initial safe goal. With safe I mean a tune that won't push the boundary of what the engine can take at this point as it's my daily driver. The plan after this is done is to attend to the internals and replace everything but then again, stay safe tune wise to have an engine that have a high probability to not blow up The ECU is of course something else that needs upgrading. I was told by my tuner that the engine could, with stock internals hold up for about 450hp (stock head gasket would be below 400hp) but there is an increased risk of breaking pistons/rods so having a tune of max 400-420hp would be a better choice. Any opinion on this?

Thanks guys! Yea I realize there is some information missing. When it comes to turbo I got a hold of a GTX3076 (gen 1 though), I know there has been some discussions regarding the spool being laggy but I'm taking a bit of a gamble on that part and it's something I can live with. It should support me up to 640hp but at that point there will be bigger mods. I already acquired the fuel pump during the holiday discount, the DW should actually, from what I've read be an easy install, but hey, we'll see. The clutch is a bit of a mystery, as I don't know the exact model I don't know how much it will hold up for, however, it's a equivalent stage 2 and if it gives, it gives. The Link ECU is certainly something that I would like to get installed, there are plugin available but they're not cheap. I'm already stretching the bank a bit for this project, I suppose the PFC ain't going to sell for much anyway. When it comes for going for the full power from the start, well, I know myself too well lets say, ain't going to be pretty

Hello there and happy new year I figured I'll start this year by putting some more horsepower under the hood. I'm currently running a R33 GTST with minor mods like FMIC, oil cooler, steel head gasket and Power FC which produces about 320hp. My initial target (on the road to 7-800hp) is about 420hp to make sure I learn to control the power but also not break the bank. I've already acquire new manifolds as I'm going for a top-mount turbo. There are some minor things that I'm not 100% sure about that I need your guys opinion on. I'm thinking of the following: - DW340 fuel pump - ID1050x injectors - Billet fuel rail (https://www.billet.net.au/products-page/nissan-fuel-rail-kits/billet-performance-products-rb25det-fuel-rail-kit/) - Turbosmart 800 FPR, is it a good fit or should I consider something else? Thanks in advance