thenixtone

Oh interesting. I actually have a brand new copy of that door seal. Might be worth putting it on. Cheers for that lmao, no wonder I couldn't find it (thought it was small)

Does anyone know where to get one or what the heck it's called? Can't seem to find anything lmao Cheers

As you can see by my exterior B pillar garnish cover thingy, she's a bit old. Seems the cover is quite expensive (to replace). Does anyone have any tips to bring it back to life? I was thinking just masking off and painting it black again with a nice clear, to make it glossy. (and yes, ordered a new window seal as well) Keen to hear your suggestions!

Yes, mobile mod plate that can do seats.

Do you have a source on this? I don't think that's right. I've scoured the gov websites to find info, and as far as I can tell a simple mod plate will cover a seat replacement (in QLD). I'm still trying to learn more about this before I commit to anything, so I'd like to know exactly what I can/can't and (need) to do. Cheers

Auto elecs said the alarm system (that was meant to be disabled) was still drawing 0.2 amps with the car off. Lmao New battery fixed the grounding issue with the rough idle. Lets hope their fix to the alarm wiring stops it from draining.

Yeah see that's the weird thing, it's supplying enough voltage to the battery (14v), but I agree I think it is the alternator And if only I had a charged battery so I could check the drain with the car off lol

Hi guys, So before I take my lovely car to the auto electricians, I'd like to try and figure it out as I know they can be quite pricey. Here's the story... With a brand new battery, the car will last a month if I drive it every 3~ days or so. After the 3-4 weeks, the battery will be flat. This means I have to jump start it after said time. (If I jump start the car and drive for 30mins, there is not enough charge for a 2nd or sometimes 3rd start) Boot light does not stay on, the car used to have an alarm system which has since been removed by the previous owner (could be the issue). Radio is ancient and a bit f**ky (could also be the issue, clarion head unit). With me trusty multimeter and voltmeter, the alternator is definitely charging the battery at a nice 13.99v whilst running, however when I flick the headlights on it drops voltage from 14~ to 10~ then back up again (makes the car stutter a tiny bit). Here's the f**ky part. When the jumper leaders are attached to the good car, my skyline runs beautifully. When I remove the cables, or start it with a good battery, the car splutters a little bit and runs like ass, just idles very rough and up and downy (when driving its fine). Thus I believe this to be a bad earth somewhere, thus probably a parasitic drain etc? From my research and limited electrical knowledge it seems I am SOL and the auto elec is the only option... What do you guys think, is this common?

Hi everyone, I'm looking at some new custom seats for my R34 GTT. I spoke with Autotechnica and they said their seat rails will not fit, waiting on a response from Velo. I don't really care on brand, I want something ADR approved though, I've heard a few whispers about needing ADR approved seat rails, is this a myth or is it true? (specifically for QLD, nothing on TMR website is vague) Anyone have a combination of seats and rules that is legal / will fit without much f**kery? Cheers! e.g some weird ebay universal seat rail that would fit autotecnica seats

Hey everyone, Going from atmo bov to recirc and it seems the last owner removed the recirc pipe. Where does the hose plumb into? Seems the entire hose is gone so I cannot trace it

I don't have any stock parts as the car came like this, so rather than waste money on stock parts that aren't good enough, I'd want to get the right thing. 9k posts and shitting on people with less experience, gotta love the community, not the first time you've been a tosswank on here though is it

I'm making like 19psi, arent the stock ones rated to 8psi or something??

Title, need ASAP. Cheers

Hey guys, So I was defected tonight lol, for my 50/50 blow off valve and carbon fiber bonnet. How easy is it to fix the bov problem / what would i need? I have no idea.. Cheers..

GTT's are pull, clutch comes in pull as well which is good

Awesome, thanks for the info. Think I'm going to spend the money and get the coppermix.

What you got? Jesus.. Is the difference between button and cushion button that big of a deal for street driving?

Thanks everyone for your feedback, my budget is to hopefully spend less than 1.5k for a good one. It will be daily'd with some light abuse, next tune I'm getting will hopefully be around 370kw~

You mean like the original passive aggressive comment I was responding to? And of course I searched. Its hard to find information with exact power figures. How do you think I came across the NPC clutch that people on here recommend..? Every thread that COULD be answered elsewhere is useless apparently. Besides 'this one fits' I was after actual experiences and feedback.

Ah right, my bad, I thought this was a forum.. for discussions. A clutch place isn't going to tell me if their clutch is shit, are they?

Hey everyone, Need a new clutch for more power / current one is worn, I have the GTT (RB25DET Neo) was wondering if anyone has any tips on what to look for? Will any aftermarket single plate do? Currently looking at https://www.gameonmotorsports.com.au/npc-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-pull-type-clutch-r34-gt~44571 Looking to make about 375kw~

Can't seem to find any online that's relatively close, anyone have this part? The one for the back of the center console? Cheers

Yeah link works now, was 400ing before. I switched the AFM out but it ran like butthole, needs a retune someone said, but no one tuned nistunes anywhere near me, so big F

Link is dead, and the official Nissan mechanic wasn't sure either, he also said 'a retune will probably fix the issue' but I don't think that's true

When I got the car looked at by a mechanic (it had a check engine light) they said the light was from the throttle actuator or o2 sensor. I'm guessing this is related, but what does that mean / what would be the fix? Sheesh The car also idles at 1100 rpm