HypeR33

I have bride Brix in mine...yeah they go forward

the only one that i have seen run back under the cooler is the ARC intercoller. All of teh Blitz, HKS, Apexi etc ones that I have seen have the return pipe running up and then over the motor to the throttle body.

Excellent work So when are you going to make them for sale

I know that Xspeed are working on this conversion at the moment S15 rb26dett

cool...thanks for that I have seen a few different surge tanks around and they aren't that expensive, but didn't know if i really needed it or not for mainly street use.

Thanks heaps thats very useful info... Would I need a surge tank setup if it is mainly street use and only occassional drag/circuit? Glad the rods are not that expensive

Car is daily driver and will also be used for occassional drag and circuit runs. Will definitely want it to be done well. The block I will get an engine builder to do to make sure it is done right. The head and the rest of the work I will do myself with a mechanic

I always had a goal to get it to 300kw, so will have to pay the extra for pistons and rods for the engine to last. I was going to do a lot of it diy...with the help of a mechanic which should save a lot on labour costs. Quick question...will the block need machining for the new pistons to go in or can they simply be changed over and the block put back together again?

So I would have to wait until the engine was pulled down before selecting the pistons based on how good/bad a condition its in?

I had also heard of front cylinder being starved as fuel enters from the back of the standard rail. Thats the reason that I had it listed. I also thought that the fuel pressure regulator would be required to maintain the correct fuel pressure? or is that only required for really high hp setups? Cheers JB

R31Nismoid...out of interest, how much kw was your sold motor putting out? ok..so no reg or fuel rail required. It already has 3.5" exhaust. I was looking at around 15k so that ok (working in London at the moment so its not that much in pounds ) I have seen a few posts around about forgies...are the arias ok for what I need? Also with the pistons is it best to stay with standard or go for the +20 or +40? How much for GTR rods? Cheers.

Hi All, Sorry about another one of these upgrade lists, but I really want to get opinions on the following list of mods and how good they will go together...and if anything can be dropped. Car details are: GTS-T R33 series 1...looking at achieving 300rwkw+ Mod list: Garrett GT3082R turbo Turbosmart 48mm pro-gate external wastegate - is this too big? High mount turbo manifold with exhaust wrap power fc + hand controller with boost control kit HKS 740cc injectors Greddy 11mm 2 in 1 out fuel rail FSE triple layer rising rate fpr Bosch 044 fuel pump HKS cams INT: 256/8.8 EXH:264/9 HKS cam gears fmic Greddy oil catch tank (modified with the steel wool and stocking trick) Ogura racing clutch already fried...upgrade to Jim Berry special at the same time looking at putting in a HKS kevlar timing belt and some HKS super fire racing iridium plugs. Is it also required to run forged pistons and upgrade the rods for 300rwkw? Any opinions on how these mods will go, and if some are not necessary will be greatly appreciated Thanks JB

BTW I will always take mine to welshpool. Went to East Perth pits once and will never go there again. They picked out the stupidest things that even the welshpool pits guys said was ridiculous.

Hey Blacky, I also have a nardi torino wheel on my 33 and it went through the pits no problems. I also had no problems with my nismo aluminium pedals when it went through the pits. They checked the thickness of the pedals and said nothing about them. They are very grippy...no problem with slipping.

C'mon guys...no matter where you are you will always come across bad drivers. I used to think a lot of drivers in Perth were pretty bad (I especially hate that hogging the fast lane) but I think Perth drivers have nothing on London drivers. I think I would be reluctant to drive around at all From what I see, all road rules are thrown out the window (motorways probably a different story). Cars and bikes driving down the wrong side of the road (even with traffic coming the other way). No one ever seems to indicate, lane changes at last minute, turns at last minute (even if people are in the lane next to them that they have to cross). No wonder 80% of cars on the road have scratches and dents on almost every corner. There is also a heap of bump parking. Would hate to have my car here parked on the side of the road. I cant wait to get home to Perth for some open road and at least some sanity on the road

Yeah good point SK, but what options for traction control are there? I know that motec have traction control available on their ecu's. Do any others?

Thanks man Takes a lot of time colouring in the writing with a paint pen In the photo I only did half on each tyre. Started getting too dark.

Hey Bass, thats what I thought too. Being able to control boost in 1st & 2nd especially. I am looking at getting to 300rwkw so prefer something that will electronically control the boost. I know I wont be able to trust my right boot

will have to remember that the search doesn't seem to allow anything less than 4 letters to a word like "power fc" this cant be right can it?

thanks for the link I just tried to search again and got the same error: Sorry, an error occurred. If you are unsure on how to use a feature, or don't know why you got this error message, try looking through the help files for more information. The error returned was: One or all of your search keywords were below 4 characters or you are searched for words which are not allowed, such as 'html', 'img', etc, please go back and increase the length of these search keywords or choose different keywords. oh...i think I get it now. I guess it cant handle fc in the search criteria

oh ok...the gear based boost control might be worth it. Being able to limit boost in the lower gears would be quite useful. Seeing as there is a heap of money going into making the power, $200 will be worth it to help limit wheel spin in 1st and 2nd gears Cheers for that

Cheers raz0r Think I might go with the boost control kit then

is there anything that the avc-r can do that the pfc cant? apart from having a 1/2 din blue screen in your dash?

Hi guys, Can anyone tell me if there is an advantage of using the AVC-R over the pfc bost control kit? I tried doing a search on this but it kept coming back with errors. I was going to get the AVC-R, but dont know if there is any advantage in getting it, as it costs more than getting the boost kit for the pfc Thanks for your help.

If you got the blitz dual drive you will have no problem at all. Once it is installed you can adjust the spring tesion yourself as its really simple. Take it for a drive and put your foot on the clutch while your cruising. If it stalls, wind up the tension with the allen key (thats how I set the tension on mine). You will get to a point where it will work great and no stalling problems I am sure there are plenty of other bov's that you can adjust the spring tension, but I had this one and know it will work fine on a completely stock car.