HypeR33

You can get a 3 gauge pod to sit in the centre of your dash. Not sure in QLD, but www.Xspeed.com.au sell them in Perth for $250 (I am sure shipping wouldn't be much) or you can get it from www.takakaira.com, but it would then need shipping from Japan. I am looking to do the exact same thing for my R33. I already have a dual pillar gauge filled, so looking at the triple gauge pod

From what I have read the Ogura racing is rated at 450HP. I am making less than that at just under 250rwkw. Plans in the works to bring the kw way up. Will definitely need a new clutch then :goddam: should have used the $900 spent on the new centre plate towards a more powerful clutch, but also need a new flywheel coz it has an Ogura racing lightened flywheel with the clutch.

I have an ogura racing super single cerametallic. Had the centre plate replaced due to a destroyed spring, but may need to look at another clutch. When driven hard, after a while produces slip which has only just started happening. Will need something stronger as the new centre plate was less than 10000kms old. Money wasted

When I got a yellow for being too low, I was told I needed permits for BOV (atmo), strut brace, pod filter, non standard seat rails. Already had permit for dual pillar gauge and exhaust. I went to Welshpool, and that was quite easy...aside from the 4 hour wait in line. They inspector crossed everything off, took it around the block and gave me all of the permits.

Hey Disco, So you are saying the GT3540R is a better way to go?

Hey disco, thanks for all the info man. Much appreciated I definitely want to make the first choice the right one

I just mean starting to get positive boost pressure in the high 2k - low 3k range. I know it probably wouldn't hit the 16-18psi I am after until way higher in the rev range. I just dont want it to not boost at all until 4k - 5k.

Thanks disco...so is the GT3040R that they gave me the specs for A T04S compressor? I want to make sure I make the right choice

I definitely want to go external gate I misunderstood what the specs sent me meant. I thought it meant that being non wastegate meant it was actuator. But it's all good

I dont want it to be too laggy, coming on boost in the high 2k - low 3k range, with a rwkw in the 250+ range (with some other mods of course)

oh ok...i thought it meant that it was an actuator type. Now I understand, thanks mate. of the choices of wheel diameter, and turbine A/R which would you go for? The larger compressor wheel diameter? smaller turbine diameter and A/R of 0.86? Thanks for your help

i have falkens too 265/35/18. They are fine, and nearly half the price of the potenza GIII's I had on before at the same size

Hi All, I have another question about the GT30R. INASNT maybe you can answer this as you have one... I got some specs from Xspeed who sell garretts, about the GT30R, and this is what they gave me. Water-cooled full ball bearing, non wastegate turbo Turbo Specs - Compressor - Wheel Trim 56 Model - GT40 Wheel Dia. - 2.41"/3.22" Flow Comp - 65 A/R - 0.70 Turbine - Wheel Trim - 84 Wheel Dia. - 2.16"/2.36" A/Rs available: 0.68/0.86/1.00 I thought the GT30R was a wastegate turbo?

Cool thanks for that!! Looks like I will follow that route then The rev limiter on mine has been removed. Is it a safer option to install new sturdier springs to allow higher revs? Is there anything else that needs to be done to allow higher revs safely? Not astromonomical revs...just a bit higher. It seems to rev over 8500 comfortably without valve bounce. I was told that it had internal work done on it when i bought it, but someone else listened to the exhaust note and said that it still had standard cams.

Hi Guys, I have a question on this too. I am ooking at 256 degree/8.8mm lift HKS cams IN & Exh. Is it better to run a 264/9 Exh cam with 256/8.8 In? to run with a GT30R turbo. Will this also require new springs? Thanks

It is possible. I got defected for being too low and not having standard seat rails. When I took it over the pits they said I needed a permit for BOV, pod filter, stut brace.

You should be able to tell if its she ABS, coz you can feel the brake pedal moving under your foot as the brake pressure is automatically adjusted. Sounds like the pads. I had a crunching grinding noise when braking. Was caused by worn rear pads. Check your rotors also. Might be ablr to see rings in them where metal has ground out ridges in them. I had to have them skimmed back to smooth them out.

I will have to try that on mine. See if a few friends can push it while it is on full steering lock. I am sure mine is a fully locked diff. Thats what the guy where I bought it from said. He deals with them all the time so should know. The guys at the pits when I got a yellow sticker wanted me to replace it because they thought it was locked. Maybe it is a 2 way with a very tight clutch in it

are you sure its not fully locked? I have a full locked diff, but still only get the shudder under power (clutch not depressed) on tight turns. Sounds like you have the same thing. 3 point turns and car parks are the worst.

Can you feel the tyres skipping on tight turns?

I got a yellow for being too low. Front bar was only 80mm off the ground instead of the required 100mm. I have JIC suspension that is hard as hell (but handles great). It failed the first time I took it over the pits because the inspector was worried about the pillar gauges, and that there was no suspension travel. Anyway...after I raised it so the front bar was the required 100mm off the ground, took it over the pits again. No mention of the suspension at all (even though still bloody hard) and the exhaust scraped the pit wall all the way along. They didn't worry about that at all. Only thing they measured was front bar height. Not sure if its different in the East, but I wouldn't worry about the suspension. Not sure bout the exhaust but the inspector didn't seem to mind it scraping (obviously lower than the front bar which he measured to exactly 100mm). Wouldn't worry too much about it.

This is mine!!!

I know of an accident where the vehicle was an HSV clubsport (a couple of years ago) where 2 people were killed, and the media just said a high performance vehicle. No mention at all of the vehicle type. It really pisses me off at the attention us 'line owners receive when a 'high performance' car is involved in road deaths! Like a couple of months back with the twin turbo IS200 conversion accident when 2 people where killed. I know people that knew the owner, and that accident caused us 'high performance import' owners so much grief. If you look at the latest HSV, FPR products, they produce in stock for more horsepower than any import does (in stock form) and yet there is no uprising against that at all. I know of a ford performance guy, that owned a ftr T50 that made over 600 horses. There is such a negative image of 'grey imports'. It really shits me!!!!

They mention 3 incidents with fatalities, 2 involve skylines and one a 'sports car'. As mentioned before people can and will speed in whatever they are driving if thats what they want to do. What about all the fatalities from road accidents in everyday cars, like commodores, falcons, magnas etc. Why dont they have some sort of statistics in the paper of fatal accidents alongside car type. It's hard enough for us to take our 'lines for a drive now without being watched, followed or spot checked by the police. There are as many idiots out there in gemini's and excels causing havoc on the streets...and just as easy to speed in them. Just takes a bit longer to get there, but they can all exceed 150km/h