HypeR33

I got the falkens because the amount of camber I am running chews the hell out of the inside inch or so of the tyre. The rest wears only about 10%!! So much for the bridgestone G3's I had. Tore them right through the steel belt. for the falken 265 ZR18's that I have I think they were about $350 each. For an 8" rim you should be able to fit 235s or 245s no problem. I think falken are one of the cheapest. I have seen some cheapish dunlops too. Best bet is to go to local tyre dealers and check some prices.

It would depend on the offset on the rims, but I have 18x9s all round on my series 1 and they fit fine. With regards to different widths front and rear, you will get varying opinions. I find no problem with wide front rims. Power steering does all the work for you. Biggest thing I would say is tyre cost. The tyres that I had on mine were Bridgestone 265 G3's and when I had to replace all 4 they are $650 a pop. So went for falkens for almost half the price.

one of the guys in the HSV club (which I was a member of when I owned one) had a VS senator 5.7 with a blower on it...think it was an APS centrifugal blower and that was quick. Still weighs a heap, but with the huge increase in power the power to weight was greatly improved. Sounded awesome too with the blower whining as the car approached and the rumble of the big v8 as it was going past. Still...I am such a fan of the turbo I wouldn't go back. Plus the look of the skyline is eternal. With the price of an R34 GTR as much (if not more...I have seen one for sale for over $200K) as the HSV GTS I would still pick the R34 anyday.

I had a VS 185...was not that quick. Did go for a test drive in a VT gen 3 when the series 2 came out. That was 250Kw clubbie linked to the 6 speeder. It was pretty quick, but still...now after owning 2 turbos, I would never go back. The turbo power delivery is so awesome.

cool...thanks Jay

Hi Guys, Has anyone dealt with TakaKaira previously? If so what were the shipping charges like? They have all the major brands, plus heaps of others, and when converted to oz dollars are quite cheap. Of course if shipping is expensive then it might not be worth it. Just after some info of anyones experiences that have used them. To check them out, goto www.takakaira.com Thanks JB

I have the exact same problem with my R33. Driving from Perth to Mandurah, and the HICAS light will come on about 2 thirds the way and stay on. I have a nardi steering wheel.

I know someone that did that with his supra. has a half cage in it, and carpet over the fame for amps and things. Has a four point harness belt. awesome looking supra...goes like a rocket too. Got one huge turbo in it!!! I dont think it is illegal to remove the rear seats. If you carpet it you can use it as extra storeage too.

Yeah I am in the UK at the moment. Miss my line heaps!!! Going to be a while before I am back home to enjoy it again too :ddd:

Hey Steve, what flange will they have? will it suit the GT30R? I was also looking at the UAS high mount.

Damn!!!! shouldn't have put a dust cover on my car, then I could have entered for the thickest layer of dust award Wish I could go :alcoholic

thats for sure, especially for 19" rims. I would go for 265s at least...depending on how much hp the car has or will have. Cost big $$$, but has a sweet footprint. I have 265's all round on my gts-t (bit of over kill seeing as only driving the rears) but looks hot with the wide treads.

its easy to check...turn on your left hand indicator and walk around the car to see which globe isn't working. i had the same problem. indicator flashes like mad. For mine it was the front left indicator in my old GTR front bumber. Turned out to be a loose connection on the bulb holder. Re-connected and worked fine. Same thing happens with a blown bulb like Fane said.

I would suggest paying to have the car checked over first if you haven't already done so and bought it. I was interested in getting one from NSW and got the NRMA to check it out. Cost a couple hundred bucks, but saved me from getting something that was not worth it. The tester said there was evidence of resprays from multiple repairs including the roof, and for the mods that were listed, the car was slow. Would get stopped on by a stock WRX was along the lines of what he said. Otherwise, if you are serious about it, get a cheap flight over to check it out and drive it. Best way to see if its worth buying and freighting over.

cool...just answered my question too...I will go for the 0.82 exhaust AR

Which exhaust AR would be better... 0.82 or 1.06? 1.06 might be a bit laggy right? although I will be looking to change the cams at the same time so with tuning that might help a bit.

great guide Will definitely use it to change my head unit. Has jap jvc unit in it and have a lot of touble playing cd's. Been told it could be due to weak laser. Wont find a track. NS, how bout a door speaker, amp and sub install guide? :rave:

Hey Kamikaze, thats nice early boost. What is the power output? any other mods done? How does the t04e hit? nice and hard? :aroused:

hi guys, these engineers certificates...they are like modification permits right? In the west if you get stopped and your car gone over, you can get off anything they pick on if you have a permit for it. Like bov, pod filter, exhaust etc. I have a permit for my exhaust even though it is a little over the legal limit at 102Db, but never been done for it. Does seem f**ked up that you get these fines. We get a yellow sticker for defects. have to get anything needed fixed then go over the pits to get the car passed and sticker removed. No fines though from what I am aware. I didn't get fined when i got a yellow for defects.

ecl, as stated by madmurf if you have changed rims, forget about the tyre pressure plaque on the door. That is for factory fitted units only. I have 18" x 9' or 10' cant remember now, but they r running 35 series. When I had then fitted they recommended 38 psi for normal day to day driving

Hey INASNT, nice power figure in the dyno sheet thread what cams are you running? stock? I will be doing a cam change also, probably to HKS 265's. Will have to change computer also for the new turbo, as only have a re-mapped standard ecu. Was looking at motec as it has traction control option to help put all the power to the ground, but maybe the pfc will do fine seeing as it about a quarter of the price. How do you find yours with traction running up to 324rwkw?

Hey Anita, Thats great to hear that you have the GT30R and are completely happy with it. Makes my decision a lot easier. I will hopefully get to around 400rwhp with new computer, cams, bigger injectors etc. Cant wait to get home and start work on it, but still going to be away from my car for over a year. Oh well, gives me more time to save up pounds

mine are attached at the joint of the A pillar and the door trim, attached to the door trim. They are drilled in via a screw (the round kenwood tweeters. Was already like that when the car came over from Japan. From what i have been told from the guys at westside, you want the tweeters as high as possible. Obviously where it doesn't look like shit, but base of the A pillar seems a popular choice. Have seen some real nice installs where the tweeters have a moulded cover over them to hide then and make the tweeter look more integrated as if it was stock

could be like the adjustment screw on the blitz dual drive that I had on my S15. Adjusts the spring resistance for the valve. I had mine fairly full out and would stall on clutch engagements when stopping at lights or even driving along without blipping the loud pedal. The benefit is getting the pssst on gear changes even when not boosting If you adjust it inwards bit by bit and test it, you will get to a point where it will not stall, and will be able to vent to not hold revs up and not cause de-spooling of the compressure wheel on throttle lift off. If you adjust it all the way in it may not vent quick enough, and cause the compressor to slow, then has to spool up again on gassing it

yeah, Series 1